Power on off switch not working

The damage from a lightning strike tends to be random. Sometimes it's minor, and only a few parts are affected. Other times, many parts are ruined, or destined to fail soon as a result of the current surge.

If the strike came over the power line, the input surge protectors in the power supply should be replaced, even if they look good. It would be prudent to replace the entire power supply. If you had the set plugged into an external surge protector, that should have taken most of the hit and should also be replaced. (Some surge protector manufacturers will pay up to a certain amount for repair or replacement of equipment plugged into their products if it is damaged by lightning.)

If the lightning came over an unprotected input cable, fixing the set would be a gamble. You could end up changing a lot of modules, beginning with the main board.

test this steps and fix it. God bless you
Power Supply

The main power supply is the first thing to check. Also remove the toe kick and the cover on the power box and check the connections. Also check 120 volts at the power box.

Hi - Limit Fuse

This will fail if your dishwasher overheats and occassionally with power surges. This is easy to check, inexpensive and a quick fix. Just check the terminals for continuity ( remember always remove one wire) if you have none replace the hi limit fuse.

Door Switch

This is the second place to look. Again an inexpensive easy fix. The following video will walk you thru checking the door switch The power comes into the main power box and usually runs to the door switch next before entering the main control module.

Main Control Module / Timer

The main control module or mechanical timer controls all the functions of the dishwasher. To check this you will need to find the 2 leads that supply the power to the control. They will be marked on the wiring diagram. They usually come from the hi - limit fuse or the door switch. When the door is latched you should have 120 volts entering the main control. If you do not the problem is not the control. If you do have power entering the control but none of the functions work properly or it does not respond at all you will need to replace the control module, this is easy to replace but not very inexpensive to purchase. Consider the age and overall condition when purchasing this part.

Motor

The motor may have failed. If the control illuminates on electronic versions the problem may be the motor. To check the motor refer to the tech sheet located behind the console cover on most models, this will sometimes have the ohm reading of the motor. Also check each lead to the metal housing of the motor to check for shorts in the motor. If you do not have the ohm reading specicifications, check for continuity if none replace the motor. Make sure the motor is receiving power

Float Switch

If the float switch has failed or is stuck the dishwasher control may not respond. The float switch is easy to check and replace..

if your car has eltronic crusie crontrol and your set buttons are on the steering wheel take test light and see if you are getting power to control module under the hood if you are getting power your module is prob. bad if not you more than likely have a bad switch. hope this helps

see this steps and fix it use the VOM or DVOM. God bless you
The Cause: Most likely no voltage to the headlights because of a bad headlight relay, fuse, module, headlight switch, dimmer switch or wiring fault.
To figure out what's causing your problem, start by inspecting the main fuse for the headlight circuit. See your Owners Manual for the location of this fuse. It is often located in the power center in the engine compartment, but may also be in the fuse panel under the dash.
If the fuse has blown, replace it with a new fuse (same amp rating) and try again. If the fuse blows immediately, there is a short in the headlight circuit that will have to be found and repaired before the headlights will work. If the fuse does not blow and the headlights work, problem solved (for now). There may be in intermittent short or overload that caused the fuse to fail.
If the fuse if okay, use a volt meter or 12-volt test light to check for power at the fuse. Most headlight circuits are on (powered) all the time, so there should be voltage to the power side of the fuse. No power at the fuse would indicate a wiring fault possibly in the fuse block or in the wiring between the fuse block and the battery. You'll need a wiring diagram to trace the wiring circuit and find the fault.
If the fuse is okay and there is power, the next check would be to find the headlight relay or control module. If the system uses a relay, pull it out and shake it. If anything inside rattles, replace the relay. Or buy another relay and plug that in to see if that restores power to the headlights.
On systems that use a module control module or daytime running lamps, about all you can do is eliminate other possibilities such as wiring faults, a bad relay or headlight switch first. If the module is getting power when the headlight switch is turned on, but the headlights fail to come on, the problem is likely a bad module. The module may be located in the front area of the engine compartment (common on Fords), under the dash or elsewhere in the front of the vehicle. You will probably need to refer to the vehicle service literature to find the module's location.
If the headlight relay or module do not receive voltage when the headlight switch is turned on, a bad switch is your problem. Switches get a lot of wear and tear, so it's not unusual for a switch to wear out after many years of service. Replacing a headlight switch can be difficult depending on whether is it located in the instrument panel or on the steering column.
If your headlights work on low beam, but you have no high beam, or they work on high beam but there is no low beam, the most likely cause is a bad dimmer switch. The dimmer switch is integrated into the steering column mounted headlight switch on most vehicles, so if the dimmer is not working, you will have to replace the entire switch.
DO NOT attempt to replace a steering column mounted headlight switch without first disconnecting the battery and waiting at least 20 minutes for the capacitors in the airbag circuit to discharge. The steering wheel will have to come off to replace the switch. Crossing up the wrong wires in the steering column could set off the air bag and cause personal injury.
If a headlight switch looks like it will be difficult to replace, don't try to do it yourself. Take your car to a dealer or repair shop and have them replace the switch for you.

Check and replace its main system control memory IC. Before replacing it, just make a hard reset to this set. Unplug the TV from AC mains wall outlet, and re-plug it back after 1 minute or so. This must make the set a hard reset.

Easiest thing might be buy cheap plug in timer, set power pack to override and plug power pack into cheap timer.
Power packs come with warranty if you have receipt.
There are no replacement clock modules:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

Power windows an locks work ok ? Do you know anything about automotive electeronic control modules ?
Power Mirror System
Power Mirror System Components
The power mirror system consists of the following components:
• Driver Door Switch (DDS)--An electronic control module with integrated switches and requires programming when replaced
• Passenger Door Switch (PDS)--An electronic control module with integrated switches, requires programming when replaced
• Power Mirror Direction Switch--Integrated into DDS and is a 4 position momentary switch that provides a signal input to the DDS for up, down, left/extend and right/retract with a mirror switch activation
• Mirror Select Switch--Integrated into DDS and is a 3 position switch that allows the operator to select the left or right mirror and also a neutral/fold position
• Left Outside Power Mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors
• Right Outside Power Mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors
• Body Control Module--An electronic control module that requires programming when replaced, serves as the power mode master and is the main message handler
• Memory Switch, if equipped with memory mirrors--Supplied power by the DDS and provides a voltage signal to the DDS upon a switch activation
• Horizontal and Vertical Position Sensors, if equipped with memory mirrors--Supplied a 5-volt and low reference by the DDS/PDS and provide a variable voltage signal to the DDS/PDS that is proportional to mirror position
• Powertrain Control Module (PCM), if equipped with memory mirrors--An electronic control module that requires programming when replaced and provides the message indicating transmission gear selection
• Driver Information Center (DIC), if equipped with memory mirrors--Part of the instrument cluster which is a an electronic control module that requires programming when replaced and is used to personalize the memory recall functions
• Fold Motor, in each of the outside mirrors, if equipped with power fold mirrors--Provides extend and retract movements of the mirror and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly
Each of the outside power mirrors contains 2 reversible motors to provide horizontal and vertical movement of the mirror glass. The vertical motor operates the up and down directions and the horizontal motor operates the left and right directions. If equipped with power folding mirrors, each outside power mirror will contain a reversible fold motor to operate the extend and retract functions. Each of the mirror motors are circuit breaker protected.

Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are ?
DTC B1023
Circuit/System Description
The driver door switch (DDS) and front passenger door switch (PDS) each contain switches that control power door lock and window functions. The DDS also contains the control switch for the power outside rear view mirrors. These switches are integrated within the door control modules and are not serviceable as separate components. The DDS and PDS monitor these switch inputs for internal faults and set B1023 00 if any are detected.

You could have any number of problems an without testing , hooking up a scanner that can check DTC'S in the door module ,electrical circuit testing etc... we'd only be guessing . Your best bet mite be to take it to a qualified repair shop.

The fact that everything but the power amp is still working, it could be only a fuse protecting the output that needs replacement although this fuse is probably circuit-wise after the main fuse you have already replaced and could be soldered on the board. Worst case, the output modules are blown and require replacement and depending on the power level it may be worth repairing instead of replacing.
Most modern electronic devices can be set or adapted to line voltages from 100-240 Volts and a good percentage of the devices, using the common switched mode power supply don't need any changes made by the user since they can be inherently 'auto-ranging.'

Hi


check the main fuse that should be close to where the power cord comes in,if you find the fuse blown it needs to be replaced with an exact replacement for AMPS rating and VOLTS rating as well as size,if the fuse is blown black we might have more problems ahead in the circuit and it will blow up again as soon as you plug the tv back in,if it blows again it will need a more involved repair,the problem could be in the primary side of the power supply.......
Check horizontal output transistor.............

you have warranty go with it .......you can get it fixed ....

I have seen this one before...

The internal power regulator circuits on the circuit board of the phone are no longer working. The fix is to replace the complete circuit board, and re-set up the phone.

In actual fact, it may be cheaper to buy a new phone!

Jerry G.