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Posted on Aug 13, 2011
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I have a 20+ years old Coleman canoe model # 59078719 17FT. It wasn't used much in the last 15 years so it just sat outside upside down. It looks like it got hot enough to cause it to sag when it sat upside down causing the bottom to lose it's shape. I didn't notice any instability when I was in the back (at 250 lbs.) with a 100 lb. passenger in front. When I was in back and had a 100 lb. passenger in in the middle with another 200+ lb. passenger in the front it became VERY unstable. I'm looking for some inexspensive ideas on how to fix this. I've thought about putting some conduit under the center cross strut on each side similar to the pipe in the keel. What do you think of this or is there some thing that would work better? I've looked into either buying or making some canoe stablelizers but both would cost more than I really want to spend right now. Plus they're just something more to haul when the canoe is used. Thanks Chuck

  • 3 more comments 
  • stash59 Aug 13, 2011

    I'm not quite understanding all of this.How and where and where did you put the plywood pieces?Am I understanding you right that you screwed through the skin and left the plywood in place in the canoe?

  • stash59 Aug 14, 2011

    What did you seal it with? a varnish of some kind or a oil based paint.

  • stash59 Aug 14, 2011

    My brother built a cedar strip canoe. would the plywood pieces be similar to the ones used to mold that?

  • stash59 Aug 17, 2011

    Thanks guys for all the help. Chuck

  • stash59 Aug 17, 2011

    thanks for the help didn't see this post til today I might try a combo both our ideas.

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Richard Roth

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  • Posted on Aug 14, 2011
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Take a look at this webpage. It has a really inexpensive canoe stabilizer you can build at home.


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  • Posted on Aug 14, 2011
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Something that is cost effective. Sounds like you got the right idea. Some PVC piping maybe.

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  • Posted on Aug 13, 2011
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This is something that worked for me, but I have no idea if it was the right way to do it or not.

I first, figured out the shape that the bottom should be in and then cut 2 each 3/4" plywood pieces, sealed it, sealed it again and then you guessed it sealed it again. Then I use a kerosene heater to heat the skin of the boat to expand it as much as possible, and then insert the two plywood pieces while the heat was still applied. I drilled four holes for each piece and then used rubber grommets on the inside and outside and screwed into the plywood to hold them rigid. Then took the heat away and let everything cool down. The skin really tightened up around the plywood strengtheners more than I thought it would, and made it very stable.

A word of caution: Wear gloves and long pants because the metal skin gets very hot and I wore the marks on my knee and hand for several weeks. And the skin has to be very hot for this to work very good.

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Aug 14, 2011

    Yes, I screwed through the skin and I placed the plywood strengtheners equal distance to cut the canoe into three equal parts. And you don't have to take it completely to the top. I took mine 3/4 and later modified it to 1/2 way up.

  • Anonymous Aug 14, 2011

    I sealed it with marine spar varnish, either 3 or 4 coats and put a coat on about every two years to maintain it.

  • Anonymous Aug 14, 2011

    Yes, that is where I got my original idea! If it hadn't of worked I was going to junk the canoe because it was so badly warped from the sun at altitude that it was very unstable. I just had to modify the size appropriately.

  • Anonymous Aug 17, 2011

    Your welcome.

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