Turn off monitor during shooting?

I found similar problems and some good ideas for the d70 at this site.
http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00F3Nf

No, you shouldn't. The D70 works as SLRs have worked for half a century, allowing you to compose your photos through the viewfinder. The ability to use a dSLR as a point-n-shoot camera, wobbling at the end of your arms, is a relatively recent development. Nikon introduced it into their lineup with the D3 and D300, released years after the D70.

Please try to charge the camera completely. Then, after it is charged, disconnect the charge cord and tun it on. This is all I can suggest with the data you shared.

First, you MUST practice with the flash before you shoot the wedding. If at all possible arrive 2-3 hours before the ceremony with a friend/model to pose for you so you can practice with the settings until you understand what will and will not work.

Use manual exposure settings (e.g. 1/60th at f5.6) on the camera, and let the flash work in automatic mode to provide the light needed to shoot with the manual settings. Don't try to use flash on subjects further than about 10-15 feet as it won't provide enough light to go that distance - light falls off according to the "square of the distance", so the amount of light you have at 10 feet is 1/4th the light you have at 5 feet (rather than 1/2 the light like you might think). Practice with your model to learn how far your model can be before the flash falls off too much. To shoot at the greatest distance, open the aperture (e.g. f2.8). You can use a smaller aperture only when your subjects are fairly close.

I can't give you exact settings for your flash on a Nikon as I'm a Canon shooter. Look in your camera manual and the flash manual for iTTL.

Do NOT try to shoot in aperture priority. The camera will use a very slow shutter (appropriate for that aperture) to gather the background light, and the flash will provide "flash fill" and you will get motion blur from your hand-holding the camera and from the subjects moving during the long exposure.

Most ministers don't allow flash photography during the actual ceremony, so you need to shoot in available light during the ceremony. Normally you can use flash during the procession to/from the altar, but once the bride reaches the altar you need to stop using flash. If the ceremony is in a dark location (dark church) this can be very VERY difficult. You need fast glass, an f2.8 (or faster) lens for this and will need to shoot at the highest ISO your camera offers. You may want to return to the rental place to rent a fast lens if you don't have one already.

Obviously you need to stay ahead of the action. This means you need to get into the aisle near the end of the service and shoot the kiss from that location, and then shoot the couple as they proceed down the aisle after the ceremony.

If at all possible, take posed photos BEFORE the ceremony. Try to have a 1-hour window to take these photos that ends 1-hour before the ceremony starts. If you can't take the posed photos before the ceremony, try to limit the after-ceremony photos to just a few groups - some photos of bride and groom, with the whole wedding party, with the bride's family, the groom's family, and everyone (all family members and wedding party). Take 3 or more shots of each group so you can swap in eyes or faces if someone looks great in one shot and someone else looks great in a different shot.

Good luck!

The higher the ISO setting the more grain in the photo. Have you somehow set the ISO to say, 1600? http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d70s/select.php?menu=1&sub=b11&num=12 Select ISO setting this way: http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d70s/select.php?menu=1&sub=b05&num=10 Are you shooting in low-light situations (typically indoor)? Try shooting bright scenes and Auto mode, or manually set ISO to 100 or 200 and see if noise persists.

I don't think there is really any such thing as a 100% "natural picture". What your eyes see and what film or a sensor "see" are not the same. All photos are manipulated to some degree whether it be from the type of film or the digital "modes" you use. If you would have shot with a film such as Velvia, the greens may have been more "stellar" or maybe too green. There are a number of settings you can use to get the results more to your liking with a D70, or shoot NEF and post process to your liking. Your exposure will make a difference so you may want to bracket.

You're shooting under incandescent light, and the camera doesn't manage to set the white balance entirely automatically. You can try to explicitly set the white balance to incandescent, or you may be able to create a custom white balance (I'm not sure whether Nikon bodies offer that feature), or you can adjust the white balance during processing (in which case it's better to shoot raw).

You're shooting under incandescent light, and the camera doesn't manage to set the white balance entirely automatically. You can try to explicitly set the white balance to incandescent, or you may be able to create a custom white balance (I'm not sure whether Nikon bodies offer that feature), or you can adjust the white balance during processing (in which case it's better to shoot raw).

You're shooting under incandescent light, and the camera doesn't manage to set the white balance entirely automatically. You can try to explicitly set the white balance to incandescent, or you may be able to create a custom white balance (I'm not sure whether Nikon bodies offer that feature), or you can adjust the white balance during processing (in which case it's better to shoot raw).

You're shooting under incandescent light, and the camera doesn't manage to set the white balance entirely automatically. You can try to explicitly set the white balance to incandescent, or you may be able to create a custom white balance (I'm not sure whether Nikon bodies offer that feature), or you can adjust the white balance during processing (in which case it's better to shoot raw).