Trouble emptying , no blockage found, but the waste tube seems to be looped high at the back

I had the same trouble with my whirlpool X-PERT and found that a switch was broken. It seems to be connected to the tub somehow (seems to act as an unbalanced switch or something) it is located in the top panel close to the main control board and protrudes down into the tub area. That was what was causing my own not to spin.

I hope you got yours already fixed cause the manual doesn't seem to identify this switch or the thousands of troubleshooting guides found online.

FREEZER FAN MOTOR MAY NEED REPLACED. THE EASIEST WAY IS TO TAKE OFF THE BACK PANEL IN FREEZER AND REMOVE THE FAN
MOTOR, TAKE IT TO THE NEAREST APPLIANCE PARTS STORE WITH YOUR MODEL NO.
EASY JOB.
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

The machine knows what the water level should be at every step of the program, so if its full when it should be empty, is not filling when it should be or is taking too long to fill or empty the program will abort and count down in seconds as you describe.
First - check the drain filter for blockage!! if clear, can you hear the drain pump running on 'drain' program? a chug chug chug noise. If not pump may be jammed or seized - or the drain tube maybe be blocked at the waste connection on the sink, etc. Or maybe the water supply pipes have blocked or got turned off? Possibly the waste pipe may not have been installed correctly and the machine is syphoning empty? ie the end of the waste pipe is lower than the water level in the machine - so it syphons empty like draining petrol from a petrol tank! That would empty the machine when it should be full.
Check all the basics of filling, draining and filter before suspecting anything else.

The float inside can get stuck sometimes.

This error means that some mechanical parts of your printer is in trouble. This could be some of the causes:

1. The print head is stuck somewhere or is unable to move because of some blockage in the printer's bay.
2. If you are using a Continuous Ink System, then the tubes might have blocked the print heads from moving.

To resolve, turn OFF your printer. Remove such blockage then turn the printer back ON.

Regards,
JR

That is a HIGH temperature detect error code.
Check the thermistor, if you measure 0 ohm resistance in the thermistor, replace it.

Press the stop/clear key, start key
and the left copy exposure adjustment
key in the order presented and hold
them down.
Press the stop/clear key.
Enter the number of the maintenance
item to be executed using the copy
exposure adjustment keys or the zoom
+/- keys.
Go to U163 and hit the Start Key, this will reset the trouble code.

Does the water just disappear down the drain as fast as it fills, with no obvious pumping sounds?

If so, it might just be that the waste hose is routed wrong after it comes out the back of the dishwasher. It needs to loop up to somewhere near the top of the machine before coming back down to go into the drain. (These machines have no outlet valve - they rely on this high point in the hose to keep the water in, then use a pump to push it "over the hump" when they need to drain).

A.

This normally shows blockage in hose , assuming you have checked and cleaned filter.Glass sherd was the problem with mine , first time then second was block outlet hose cause by backup of garb.Glass was in system at least 4 months before it moved in outlet hose and stopped full drainage.

Remove the back pannel ( a whole load of screws i must say )
Then you will see at the bottom on the back of the drum where the filters connects... Remove the clip and check and remove any blockage....

Before opening it is possible to check if a blockage exist is to dicconect the waste pipe from the sink and lay it on the floor... Gravity forces the water to flow to the lowest point.. if no water comes out of the pipe then you definately have a blockage...