AEG Favorit 65050VI fills with water but fails to heat or wash (spray). Detergent is released and time counts down. No fault code indicated. Can you please advise?

If your AEG FAVORIT 35085 Vi dishwasher beeps five times and stops halfway through a wash cycle, there could be a few potential causes for this issue. One possibility is that there is a problem with the water supply, such as a clogged or partially blocked inlet valve. Another potential issue could be related to the drainage system, such as a clogged filter or a malfunctioning drain pump. It's also worth checking if the dishwasher's spray arms are spinning freely and not obstructed by any debris. If the problem persists, it is recommended to consult the dishwasher's manual or contact AEG's customer support for further assistance. They can provide specific troubleshooting steps and guidance based on your dishwasher's model and any error codes that may be displayed.

AEG Fault codes....

https://www.northlondonappliancerepairs.co.uk/error-codes/aeg-error-codes/error-codes-for-aeg-washing-machines.html

Tis quite a way down the list.

Some companies share generic codes like 'Lw', for low water level or 'DL' for Door Lock. This might help, there are other sites when Googling 'make model error codes'.

AEG Dishwasher Error Codes ' Dr. Dishwasher

www.drdishwasher.com > manufacturer > error-codes

Error/Fault Codes for AEG Dishwashers with an LED Display Fault Code ,10 Symptom: Dishwasher not filling with water. Go to: Why is My Dishwasher Not Filling ...

The temperature must increase by a certain amount at each step.
If there is no temperature increase during three minutes, the electronics will generate "Heating Time Out" or fault code i60.
In this case program will continue to the end without heating and the washing result will probably be unsatisfactory.
Could be: Heating element faulty; intervention of safety
thermostats (open); faulty wiring; NTC sensor (poor
thermal contact); insufficient water circulating in the
tub; washing faulty pump (impeller stripped); circuit
board faulty.

Dado

The most common cause of a fault "i10" is closed valve on the water supply line. So this failure indicates a problem with filling of water.
Possible error causes:
Closed water tap, Inlet valve faulty, inlet hose bent, softener system clogged, pressure switch or pressure switch hose obstructed or leaking, wiring from pressure switch to printed circuit board (PCB), wiring from inlet valve to PCB and finally PCB.

Dado

The most common cause of a fault "i10" is closed valve on the water supply line. So this failure indicates a problem with filling of water.
Possible error causes:
Closed water tap, Inlet valve faulty, inlet hose bent, softener system clogged, pressure switch or pressure switch hose obstructed or leaking, wiring from pressure switch to printed circuit board (PCB), wiring from inlet valve to PCB and finally PCB.

Dado

Before you investigate the fault, try unplugging the machine at the mains for 20 minutes. This MAY reset the problem and all will be well. If that fails, then read on:

The flashing lights are an error code. You will see that there are a series of rapid flashes followed by a pause and then the series of flashes will be repeated, this is the error code being displayed. If you count the number of flashes being given then you use that number to correspond to the fault code, for example, three flashes would be fault code 3.

Fault Code 1 Door open after program has been startedThis error code may well not show up for a minute or so after you actually go to start the washing machine but the door can be closed and the program restarted.
If the error persists there may be a fault with the door locking mechanism or door latch.
Fault Code 2 Water intake has failed
Error after more than 10 minutesa failure of the water inlet valve or the water supply itself has been cut off somehow. This can be due to the water valve or supply as stated but it may also be worth checking the filters in the fill valves to ensure that they are clear.
Fault Code 3 Heating time exceeds 105 minutesThis would ordinarily indicate a fault with the water heating element or, certainly, the water heating circuit as the washing machine is indicating that it has failed to reach temperature.
The error can be caused by faulty wiring, the heater as stated, low voltage or even a calcified heater has been known to generate this error code.
Fault Code 4 Takes longer than 6 minutes to drain.Very often you will see this error if the filter is blocked or obstructed or the drain pump is jammed or faulty.
This error code can also be caused by the pressure sensor being blocked by overfoaming from overdosing detergent or using a poor quality detergent as well as a pressure switch or sensor failure.
When this error occurs the program is aborted as it is considered to be a "fatal error" without any attempt to drain the washing machine.
Fault Code 5 NTC thermistor open circuit or short circuit
Self explanatory really, either a faulty NTC or wiring. The washing machine will complete the program but will not heat.
Fault Code 6 Unexpected heatingThe machine has attempted to heat at a stage in the program where it should not.
Fault Code 7 Fault detected in motor or drive circuit
Very often you will see this error if the carbon brushes or the motor fails.
This error code can be generated by no tacho reading from the motor (the electronics cannot see the tach generator of the motor), a triac fault or short circuit or a faulty reversing relay on the control board. The washing machine will try to start the motor but after several attempts the program will be aborted with this error code which is again consider to be a "fatal"

Yes changeing the valve will fix it . around £30. On one occaision only I have come across the detergent dispensor top being blocked up enough to slow down the fill. on your machine it allows 5mins if this is exceeded F1 is displayed and prog stopped.

There is either food debris blocking the action of the dispenser lid, or the solenoid which releases the door is sometimes failing to operate. The latter fault can be due to either a faulty solenoid or a loose/damaged cable connection anywhere between the main board and the solenoid: bear in mind that every time the door opens and closes there's a flexible connector which gradually fatigues and there are electrical connections which can be loosened if the door is regularly allowed to slam shut.

It's not really a DIY fix unless you are a competent and experienced home appliance repairer, but you can check for any food debris around the dispenser lid. If in any doubt run the machine empty using dishwasher cleaner. The possible electrical faults I've mentioned aren't necessarily expensive in terms of parts, but the labour will typically be about one hour.

An alternative is to use the new detergent dispenser from Finish. This sits in your machine, preloaded with twelve doses of detergent which are automatically released with every wash. It's an expensive way to buy dishwasher detergent, but it's a quick and relatively cheap fix which may buy you time until you can afford a proper repair.

If you do think that you may be able to diagnose and repair the fault on a DIY basis then I highly recommend the Haynes Dishwasher Repair Manual which you can either buy or perhaps borrow from a public library.

I'm hope that you have found my reply to be of use, all that I ask in return is that you take a moment to rate my answer.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. First of all please check the Water temperature by using a thermometer inside the dishwasher to measure the water temp. It should be as close to 125 degree F to 140 degree F as possible. Now try using the temperature boost feature if your dishwasher is equipped with this cycle feature and check if this will help your wash ability issues.

Now check the Powder soap by making sure that you store your soap in a dry environment and it is not stale and clumping together. Possibly try a different detergent like a liquid or gel. Also, make sure the dishes are loaded properly, or dishwasher is not overloaded.

To check the proper filling dishwasher will fill with water up to and around the heating element. If water is more below the heating element, you may have low water pressure or a problem with the fill valve. Try & listen if it sounds like it is spraying the water around with enough pressure.
For low water pressure, try to clean the screen at the entrance of the fill valve, sometimes the fill valve can fail and not allow the proper water into the dishwasher and may need to be replaced. And, check the spray arm and pump cover for splits or leaks. Also make sure that the water is draining and is not accumulated in the dishwasher, if it is in dishwasher then check for clogged drain hoses and drain pump.

Low water fills are a very common trouble maker with today's dishwasher.

Please do rate this solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee