Hi i have a performance teknique 2 channel amp the amp wills start with the stereo but then it will cut out if there is to much current draw and turn off the diagnostic light will come on when this happens it will play fine at low db but when the music is turned up it will malfunction any ideas?

Ohm's Law for Alternating Current states that I = V/Z where I is current, V is voltage, and Z is impedance. We also know that P = IV, where P is power. If we use Ohm's Law and substitute into the power equation, we get P = V(V/Z), which can be rewritten as P = (V^2)/Z. Therefore, power is the square of voltage divided by impedance.

Now, why do we care about all that? Because it explains precisely what happens when an amp is bridged. I'll give a practical example and explain the theoretical basis of that example.

Imagine you have a two-channel amp that puts out 50 watts into each channel when driven into a load of 4 ohms per channel. Since we know P and Z, we can plug these numbers back into our power equation and find V. 50 = V^2/4 -> V = sqrt(200). So, we're seeing a voltage of 14.1 volts across each channel.

Now, imagine we bridge this amp, and use it to push just one of those 4 ohms loads. When the amp is bridged, the voltage is doubled. Since we know the voltage (2*14.1 volts), and the impedance (4 ohms), we can calculate power. Remember that P = V*V/Z. That means P = (28.2)^2/4, which is 198.1 watts. It should be clear by now that the new power is approximately 200 watts - quadruple the power of a single, unbridged channel!

You can probably see that should be the case, especially if you look back at the power equation. Since P = V*V/Z, if you double V, you quadruple power, since V is squared in the power equation.

Now, all this assumes the amp is stable into 4 ohms mono. The mono channel is putting out four times as much power as a single unbridged channel, so it must be putting out twice as much as the two single channels combined. Since the voltage on the supply side of the amp is dependent on the car's electrical system, it doesn't change (OK, the increased current might cause a voltage *drop*, but let's not worry about that now). Looking at the first power equation, at the supply side of the amp, we see P = IV. Now, when we bridged the amp, we doubled the power, but the input voltage stayed the same. So, if we hold V constant, the only way to double the power is to double the current.

That means the amp is now drawing twice as much current when it's running at a given impedance mono than it would be running two stereo channels at the same impedance. There are only two ways the amp can do that - it can simply draw more through it's circuits, and dissipate the extra heat, or it can utilize a current limiter, to prevent the increase in current. Of course, using the current limiter means you don't get the power gains, either! So, if the amp can't handle the extra current, and it doesn't limit the current in some way, kiss it goodbye. For that reason, an amp is typically considered mono stable into twice the impedance it is considered stereo stable.

• Hi, I can help.
• As I look at the manufacturer specs and recommendations this amp is not brigable. I figure I would tell you so you did not ruin it.
• When you bridge you turn 2 channels into 1 channel. This is already a 1 channel amp. Bridging would ruin that amp quick.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Your amp needs to be connected to your stereo via rca to the rca jacks in the back of the stereo then connect the remote wire to the remote wire in the back of your stereo it should be blue with a remote flag on it. after that you need to ground the amp and run a wire to the positive terminal on the battery. make sure you install a fuse on the wire in between the battery and the amp.

try a basic connection connect

positive from car to positive of amp

ground to ground

and positive of car to remote of amp

see if it turns on

also check the fuses in the car
check for voltage on the wires

disconnect the amp and then put the fuse in.if it blows,there is a pinched wire causing a short.
Also,big amplifiers like that have to be wired battery direct.
the surge current at boot up can pull 100 amps for 10 millisec.

Hello perezmagdiel,

That 700 watts is maximum peak power, not RMS. If you're looking to not spend a lot of money for an amp, but want something that sends enough power to the Performance Teknique's, I'd recommend a 2-channel like the Boss Diablo D400.2. It's plently powerful enough and if you change out later, the amp can be bridged. And for inexpensive, it's got a lot of nice features, including a remote level control. It's 2ohm stable in stereo. Nice, for under $70.

Hope this helps.

clockwise should be more power

No, with 1700watts at 1 ohm the max current is 41 amperes, with 1500 at 0.67 the currents is almost 48 ampreres, you will be overdriving the amp at signal peaks.

Look into competition lines of different manufacturers.... Massive Audio DMX, Soundstream, Atomic APX, Incriminator Audio Death Penalty Series, Kicker Solo X etc. In car audio, you have to pay to play. Dont expect a 100.00 subwoofer to take 2000W continuously.
Massive Audio offers a no questions asked warranty. Even covers blown voicecoils!

Well one problem is you might need a smaller amp depending on how many speakers you have, 1200 watts is way overpowering for 300watt max speakers and could possibly blow them and even catch them on fire!!!! But everything else is compatable because all of your epuipment is of a newer products but if you dont have 4 guage wires or anything else make sure you get them heres a list: 4 gauge wires for power and ground, REM wire "blue is the normal color" RCA jacks, A compacitor, fuse for battery to amp to keep system from blowing up, 8 gauge speaker wire or even 12 guage to hook up from the amp to the speakers, That should be the common things you need to have a good thumpin system!!!!