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Remove the lens, attach the old lens and see if you get the same issue, if yes, then you have an issue with the base, and will need to be take to a repairman. If no issues, then the new lens is having issues. Since its new, I assume to will have a warranty.
In order to get close to the subject, you need to be able to focus close. If you're using one of the kit lenses, you won't be able to get much closer than a foot or two.
In order of decreasing cost:
Special macro lenses are designed to focus closer, as close as a couple of inches, but they cost more.
Extension tubes fit between the camera and other lenses, allowing the lens to focus closer.
Close-up adapters fit in front of the lens, also allowing closer focus.
One major consideration with any type of close-up photography is lighting. Having the camera close to the subject tends to block out light. Two possible ways around this are: a tripod or other support, and an additional light source such as an external flash unit.
That depends. A true macro lens allows you to get a 1:1 reproduction ratio; most manufacturers call a lens "macro" if it allows 1:4 or so. Some lenses work better for close work if you reverse them, using a reverse adaptor to put the nose of the lens onto the mount. Bellows and extension rings behind the lens will give you sharper results than close-up adaptors that screw onto the front of the lens.
The focal length will affect perspective; to get the same image size with a wide angle lens, you'll have to get closer, wihch will make the background seem smaller and farther away. You don't have to get as close with a longer lens, which will make the background seem larger and closer.
The aperture affects depth-of-field. If you're photographing something flat, like a piece of paper, you don't need much DoF. If you're photographing something three-dimensional, you'll need more DoF.
The exposure mode might depend on the lighting conditions and your personal preferences. I tend to do most of my close-up work in Manual. I also tend to focus manually, for better control.
There's no one set of "best" settings for close-up photography, any more than there's a set of "best" settings for any other type of photography.
If you are new to photography in general and especially SLR photography
I would suggest holding off on buying any lenses besides the 18-55mm.
The reason I suggest not buying extra lenses just yet is coz you need
to get to know your camera and if you are new to SLR photography then
you need to get your fundamentals right. Sure the 400D will let you
shoot in full auto mode but you will really not learn much doing that
and certainly not be making the most of your camera in that process and
that will extend to your new lenses too.
Get used the the control, the 18-55 is a great little cheap lens with
the pop up flash it will work great for most family pics. The 55-200mm
is a new "cheap" lens, its been marketed as letting you go beyond 55mm
thats why it starts at 55mm goes to 200mm.
Hey matty reps, You are attempting one of the most challenging types of photography there is, because you are combing nighttime photography and action photography. If you want to stop the action you normally would be using the highest shutter speed possible, but since you are trying to take nighttime action photographs I would rely on a flash since the flash duration in essence becomes your shutter speed. I would definitely use a hotshoe mounted flash because the built in flash will most likely not be powerful enough for your needs. I would have the camera set to aperture priority so I could control the depth of field, because the smaller the aperture the larger depth of field you will have and the less likely your subject will be out of focus. If you are attempting natural light nighttime action photography you will definitely need a very fast film speed such as 3200 speed film which will provide significant loss of image quality. You will also need a very fast lens meaning a lens with an aperture of at least f2.8 or larger, and your camera in this scenario should be set to shutter priority so you can set the camera to the fastest shutter speed possible but this will present focusing issues. In both scenarios I would have the AF system set to continuous so the camera doesn't require you to achieve focus to be able to trip the shutter. As in all challenging photography situations more photos are better than less, because you should have more failed photos than successful. I hope this helps! Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
(From Sigma lens literature) Capable of macro photography, this
lens has a 1:2 maximum close-up magnification at the 300 mm focal
length. It's the ideal high performance lens for portraits, sports
photography, nature photography, and other types of photography that
frequently use the telephoto range. It also has a switch for changeover
to macro photography at focal lengths between 200mm and 300mm with a
maximum close-up magnification from 1:2.9 to 1:2. The minimum focusing
distance is 1.5m / 59 in. at all zoom settings.
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