Remove Jammed Nuts and Bolt

Hi Ashley

There is no other way, but with gentle brut force. Remove the nut and lay the bike on its side with swing arm bolt thread exposed and facing up.

Use Q20 / WD40 or any type of aerosol anti seize releasing fluid by spraying it on to bolt thread and swing arm making sure to get the fluid to enter the bolt hole of the swing arm. You might have to do this for a couple of days to a week 5 - 10 times a day. Leave the bike lying on its side. To check, replace nut leaving 2 - 3mm gap before its against the swing arm and hammer it lightly without damaging the thread for movement. If no luck, you will have to drill 3 - 4 (3mm) holes in to the swing arm on the section where the bolt slides through to spray the fluid directly on to the bolt shaft. You can weld or plug the 3 or 4 holes after you have removed the seized bolt, but be careful not to obstruct the bolt hole. It takes some patience but you will get it out.

Regards
Phillip

Use WD-40 rust inhibitor spray. Let it soak for a while,repeat a few times and it should break loose.

1. Release the park brake.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
4. Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
5. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

1. Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
2. Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs, if applicable.
3. It may be necessary to strike the end of the hub or the rotor with a deadblow hammer to separate the rotor from the hub.
4. Remove the rotor by slowly fuming the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle.

Installation Procedure

Notice: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange with the J42450 hub cleaning kit. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.

1. Use the J42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.
2. Use the J41013 to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hub section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.
3. Install the rotor by slowly fuming the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle.
4. Install the caliper and the bracket as an assembly to the vehicle.
5. Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

• Remove all traces of the original adhesive patch.
• Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner or the equivalent and allow to dry.
• Apply Threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) to the threads of the bolt.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

1. Install the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

• For the 15 Series, tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft. lbs.).
• For the 25 series, tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.).

1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
4. Slowly release the brake pedal.
5. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 9-10 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
6. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid.

The brake pads only need to be lined up with the braking surface to work. As far as keeping the bolts in place I would suggest a drop of loctite (blue) on the threads of the bolts to keep the nuts in place.

Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

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