Tip & How-To about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

Replacing the Drive Motor on a Kenmore or Whirlpool Top Loader

This advice is for Kenmore & Whirlpool TOP LOADING DIRECT DRIVE type washing machines. This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, there is a Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. NOTE: Inspect the motor coupling. If it shows signs of wear, this would be a good time to replace it.

10. Install the new Drive Motor. Make sure all the black rubber pads are on the motor (there are four of them). These help to reduce noise and vibration. Also, make sure the white cardboard piece that covers the bottom of the motor remains in place. This is a splash guard to prevent water from splashing into the motor in the event of a leak or overflow. Now, line up the motor coupling correctly and place the lower motor retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

11. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

12. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

13. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

14. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

15. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

16. Reinstall console.

This is rather lengthy, but I always try to be thorough. I hope this is useful information for everyone. If you have questions, please go to my profile at: http://www.fixya.com/users/jsrock516 and use the “Ask Me” feature to get a faster resolution to any of your concerns.

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1 Answer

washer fills with water as usual then it will try to agitate and spin at same time.



Another thing to Check is the wig/wag solenoid also in some models. The cam shaft may have slid and broken away from wig wag solenoid

( Direct drive) a simple way of determining with spin or agitate problem is with your washer's transmission (also called a gearcase) or some other part like a clutch or a drive motor coupler. And usually the problem is in the transmission itself in direct drive models. When it comes to spin and agitate at same time.

your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch(see the "Clutch" section below),basket driveor thetub drive block(see the "Drive Block" section below).
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. BTW, replacing the motor coupler is probably the single most common repair on this washer.

Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Apr 13, 2017 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

My whirlpool top loader extra large washing macine


Many late model washing machines use a direct-drive system to agitate and spin. They don't use belts or pressure wheels to transfer power and motion from the motor to the transmission. The motor is coupled directly to the transmission. If the motor is running and there is no agitation or spinning of the tub, the culprit is usually a plastic coupling between the motor and transmission or the transmission itself.

Aug 07, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

20+ year old inglis belt drive top load washer agitator intermittantly "slips" (stops rotation sometimes in one or both directions) while on wash or rinse cycle. Transmission makes a klunking sound when this occurs. Watching from behind while operating I can see the shift fork that engages the transmission "jump" upward whenever the agitator skips and the klunk sound happens. Would this be a gear inside the transmission that is faulty? Can anyone diagnose my problem from this explanation? Kindly respond. W.

I need the model number off the machine to be sure!
But I thing you have the machine that has the WiG WAG that ingauges the transmission.

The wires for that wig wag move back and forth and can break inside the wire and cause it to conect and disconect the power to one of the solinoids that engages the transmision for for spin or the agitator.

It has two rods or bars that the wig wag solinoids move to make the transmision engage. it sounds like yours is engageing and disengageing. (( sorry for the spelling ))

This machine, if it is the one im thinking of is a tank and is not a easy machine to work on.

Some of the parts are still avalible.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My washing machine has a broken drive belt!

Not a good model number, so I can't be positive on this. All whirlpool top load washers built in the last 25 years are no longer belt driven, they are direct drive, Broken drive coupling is a very common problem. If you have a wp washer older than 25 years with a drive belt, I don't recommend you repair it as there are a number of major repairs at the same time. Outer tub major corrosion, leaks small amounts of water onto the base plate and then into the wig-wag assembly(electrical shock hazard), main bearing-basket drive assembly, water pump bearings and seal fail(this is usually what burns out the belt. Ect, ect. For Repair manuals try Reliable Parts Co. at 1800-666-0313 Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Dec 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

washer will not spin

check the lid switch
belt drive... check for a wig wag solenoides

Jun 28, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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