Tip & How-To about Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

Purchase a Color Wheel & The Repair Job

My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the [affmask=http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2057689-10391521?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.partstore.com%2FCompatibleModels%2FSamsung%2FSamsung%2F BP9600250A%2FNew.aspx]compatability list[/affmask]

The Repair Job

  • Philips screwdriver, not too small and at least 5 inches long. There’s one screw that’s a reach.
  • Tiny (jewler’s) screwdriver. You may not need this. I needed it to get a connector off.
  • Tweezers. I needed them to get to a few screws in tight places.
  • Compressed air. I didn’t have this, but I wish I did. It’s dusty in there.
  • Pen and paper. I took copious notes. If you do anything that I don’t talk about here, you should write it down. I carefully documented every cable that I unplugged and every part I removed. Thank God I did that.
  • 1-2 hours (first time I did this, it took 90 minutes. Second time 60 minutes, with photography)
  • Nerves of steel and air conditioning. Don’t drip sweat into your television.
  • In this document, left and right are “stage-left” and “stage-right”, or the left and right sides of the set as you look at the back, facing your sofa.
  • Almost all of the screws are identical. You can safely keep them all in the same cup, or pile on the table, or carpet, or wherever you store the screws.
  • Don’t touch anything that looks like light will shine through it, like the projector lens or the colorwheel itself.
  • DON’T rely on this document entirely. Pay close attention and take notes or digital pictures.
  • If you were just watching your TV, your projector lamp will be HOT. Let it cool down.
1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the entire width of the bottom rear of the set. There’s no need to remove the access panel for the lamp. That’ll come off with the panel. There are 14 screws.
2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it let’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like the safe thing to do. It’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws holding it in. It’s on the right side of the TV. The screws won’t come out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.
3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few inches until cables stop you. You won’t actually need to remove any cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed most of them the first time.)
4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the power cord out of it’s notch in the bottom of the case. It’s blocking the next part that has to slide out.
5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that have larger heads than the rest. You don’t need to take off the regular sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. They’ll all slide out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the plastic case.

Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a peek inside as you do. It’s a snug fit, so you’ll need to ease out both the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath. You’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You’ll need to unplug these:
  • blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.
  • blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.
  • Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.

This arrow is pointing to two of the cables. Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.

Here’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out of the television. If you didn’t remove any cables on the left panel, you’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the television.
Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse what you’ve done.

further steps will be continued

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1 Answer

how to replace the color wheel...?

According to your model number, you do not have a color wheel in that set. Check your model number again and please re-post. I will answer it as soon as you post it.

Dec 23, 2010 | Samsung HC-P4752W 47" Rear Projection...

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part number for color wheel

That model is a plasma TV? Plasma TV's don;t use color wheels. Only the DLP sets do.

Aug 15, 2009 | Samsung Televison & Video

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samsung dlp 6163w color wheel

Ours was on the color wheel. I also went to samsungparts.com and entered my tv model number and we could veiw the color wheel. However, the one we needed is back orders . I hope your is not.

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The original lamp code number and color wheel part number must match...give me all the # ' s for research = Model # , lamp
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Also, does it "melody" on and " melody" off ?? That is a function
of DMD module = might be defective...............T,

Dec 20, 2007 | Samsung HC-P4752W 47" Rear Projection...

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Samsung HLP4663W Color Wheel

 The color wheel that goes in an HLP4663WX/XAA is:



 This is the correct color wheel.

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