My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part
number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many
Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the
The Repair Job
- Philips screwdriver, not too small and at least 5 inches long. There’s one screw that’s a reach.
- Tiny (jewler’s) screwdriver. You may not need this. I needed it to get a connector off.
- Tweezers. I needed them to get to a few screws in tight places.
- Compressed air. I didn’t have this, but I wish I did. It’s dusty in there.
- Pen and paper. I took copious notes. If you do anything that I
don’t talk about here, you should write it down. I carefully documented
every cable that I unplugged and every part I removed. Thank God I did
- 1-2 hours (first time I did this, it took 90 minutes. Second time 60 minutes, with photography)
- Nerves of steel and air conditioning. Don’t drip sweat into your television.
- In this document, left and right are “stage-left” and
“stage-right”, or the left and right sides of the set as you look at
the back, facing your sofa.
- Almost all of the screws are identical. You can safely keep them
all in the same cup, or pile on the table, or carpet, or wherever you
store the screws.
- Don’t touch anything that looks like light will shine through it, like the projector lens or the colorwheel itself.
- DON’T rely on this document entirely. Pay close attention and take notes or digital pictures.
- If you were just watching your TV, your projector lamp will be HOT. Let it cool down.
1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the
entire width of the bottom rear of the set. There’s no need to remove
the access panel for the lamp. That’ll come off with the panel. There
are 14 screws.
2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it
let’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like
the safe thing to do. It’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws
holding it in. It’s on the right side of the TV. The screws won’t come
out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle
and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.
3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding
it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few
inches until cables stop you. You won’t actually need to remove any
cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed
most of them the first time.)
4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and
the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the
power cord out of it’s notch in the bottom of the case. It’s blocking
the next part that has to slide out.
5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that
have larger heads than the rest. You don’t need to take off the regular
sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. They’ll all slide
out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the
Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have
larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two
more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No
need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a
peek inside as you do. It’s a snug fit, so you’ll need to ease out both
the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do
this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath.
You’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You’ll need to unplug these:
This arrow is pointing to two of the cables.
Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind
this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.
Here’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
- blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.
- blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to
unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.
- Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out
of the television. If you didn’t remove any cables on the left panel,
you’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the
Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I
suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to
use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse
what you’ve done.
further steps will be continued