Another F-20 tip/ soap gate not opening

If they are not too deep, use some Brasso-gently, also works on wristwatch crystals - though not mineral glass.

I believe you have a blown IOD fuse "Ignition Off Draw" Its in the fuse center under the hood. I found a simple guide to replace it. Hope this helps :)



I crossed my fingers that the IOD fuse was the cause, as I really didn't want to take it to the shop and pay big bucks. The yellow 20-amp IOD fuse is in the fuse box (power distribution center) under the hood and just behind the air filter housing. It stands out because it is encased in a protective clip that allows you to pull it up to break the circuit, but leave it in place for transport and not get lost. The challenge is getting it out of that clip. To make it a bit easier to access, I removed the housing top to the air filter, which is simple (disengage the clips on the left side and the right front side, and then the screw holding the retaining ring on the rubber hose on the back left side).

I found that taking a very small, thin screwdriver that I use for glasses screws worked well. You'll see a small rectangle opening in the top (where you'll be able to read the "20" on the fuse). I think a small curved tip screwdriver would work, too. Take the tip of your screwdriver and insert it in the opening, with the pressure up under the left side of the opening (the top is actually hinged, with the left side being where it clips down in place and the plastic hinges on the right). It takes a little effort, and I used my left hand to try and help unclip the left side of the clip while I applied the out/lifting pressure with the screwdriver. After a while I got it, and the top opened up to allow access to the fuse.

Will start simple:
If the handle is broken inside car, find cable end pull with pliers, the handle is replaceable by itself from dealer or junkyard.

If you are pulling handle and hood will not pop up, have a helper pull up on front of hood and lightly bump down on hood near the latch with their hand or fist(careful not to dent) while you pull on handle and it should popup, now lube it before you close it, the hood may then need to be opened and closed several times to work lube into latch(this sticking is common when latch system is not lubricated regularly).

If the before mentioned does not work...the cable could be detached at latch which is usually caused by: lack of lubrication and/or trying to open hood in winter after going through carwash.
Now things get trickier and you're best finding a shop that can raise the car up so that they can jimmy it from below.

I think the key is pulling the vent to the left.

From page 36 of the online version of the owner's manual, which also mentions the active grille's presence on some models:

Oven Light

Replace the burned-out bulb with a 120 volt, 20-watt
halogen bulb (WB36X10213), available from your
GE supplier.

To replace the oven light, first disconnect the
power at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel
or pull the plug.

Remove the top grille by taking out the screws
on top of the grille that hold it in place and
sliding the grille to the left (opening the door
makes grille removal easier).

Next, remove the light cover.

On some models, the light cover is located
in the center of the top opening. Remove the
screw that secures the light cover and lift the
cover off.

On some models, the light cover is located at the
left of the top opening. Lift the cover off.

Pinch the clips that hold the light socket in
place and lift the socket out.

Remove the bulb from the light socket by
pulling straight out. Replace with the same size
and type bulb, then replace the light socket and
cover.

Replace the grille and screws. Connect electrical
power to the oven.

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first remove mains cord from main power. and remove the microwave oven top cover and check the bulb and crefully remove the old bulb and put new bulb. at high voltagae section dont touch any thing ,that area very dangerous ,thats why very carefully work inside the microwave oven ..