Drum bearings and seal on l g wm-2277hw

Good Afternoon Friend,

I understand your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FGX831CS, is not spinning water out of your clothes completely. I see that on the first spin cycle the drum is not spinning and is just making noise, and on the second spin cycle the drum spins to the left very slowly and loudly. First check to see if your washer is overloaded. Try taking some clothes out and spinning them again. Secondly, make sure that the load is not out of balance. Try rearranging the clothes to allow for proper spinning. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your dryer status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

Noise when spinning, seems to be the bearing are worn out or broken. The washing machine needs to be opened while disconnected from the a.c. mains. It may be necessary to lift the drum out of the machine to get to this, if direct access from the rear is not available or awkward to get tools in.

At the rear of the drum there is a wheel connected to a belt. Beneath this wheel are some spokes (called a spider) which is bolted to the drum. This spider needs to be removed and the center bearing hammered or pulled out using a bearing puller (automotive garages use them) without damaging the spider. The bearing will have a rubber seal on top which can be removed with a screwdriver. Normally the seal and bearing is replaced as part of a kit. These are available on ebay, contact the seller with model number GHW9150P to make sure, see example search below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=whirlpool+bearing&_sacat=0&_odkw=GHW9150P+bearing&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

When Replacing the bearing and add grease so that it is well lubricated.

Reassemble in reverse order

You can repair it, but it really needs to be done by a qualified technician. What has very possibly happened, is the spider assembly has snapped that connects to the drum (that's the noise you heard).. The drum has now collapsed. Different machines open differently. The later ones have plastic outer frames, and when the "spider arm"collapses, it eats large chunks out of the drum internally. It in my opinion is not then worth the repair. For the older ones, one needs to remove drive belt and pulley then strip front of machine to enable you to open it up. This will let you then remove the inner drum. Inspect spider assy. and see if actually broken. (I'm sure it is.) Phone agents for replacement parts which will be 2 bearings and a seal and the spider assembly.Install and reassemble.

Not motor. Most likely one of these: bad bearing or seal, worn shock absorbers, broken spider(drum support to spindle)

To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
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1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.