Clothes washer fills but then stops and won't agitate or go into spin cycle!

If the door is closed and you still get the door ajar message then chances are the plunger in the door frame is bad. The plunger is the little switch that pushes in when the door closes and opens with te door. you can push it in and out with your finger to test it.

A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

The symptom of a washer that fills normally, but stops suddenly and will not drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction.

The following link explains how to install a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If this is just a matter of reinstalling a switch that has come loose, a new switch may not be required. Inspect to ensure the mounting screws, switch casing, or switch lever are not broken. Make sure the mounting screws are tight. NOTE: You do not have to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. With the switch replaced, the washer will drain on its own. This will save anyone the trouble of having to bail. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.

Sounds like your lid switch is ok .. u need to replace or adjust the plunger for the switch... below is a pic of the plunger.. sometimes u can get a little adjustment on the clip that pushs the plunger thats attached to the lid.. pic below

sounds like this is the part that has wore and shorten some...


also check the lid cam maybe able to wedge something behind to get more length out of the plunger heres a pic

Your lid switch is probably damaged or loose. Examine the lid switch on the right-hand side of the washer tub opening. There are two screws that hold the switch in place. Check to see if they are loose. In addtion, the lid should have a small plunger that depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure it is intact and not broken. If the switch is tight and the plunger is intact, the switch has probably been damaged and needs to be replaced. If you have the type of washer that has no visible plunger and/or switch, the lid switch is locate in the rear on the left hand side and has a small arm attached to the lid that activates a contact when closed. Often this arm can get bent and will not engage the lid switch contacts. A simple adjustment (sometimes) can correct this. I've seen a lot of these switches where the casing on the switch separates and the contacts will not close. Slamming a washer lid is highly NOT recommended just for this very reason. The switch is an easy replacement and costs roughly $35. If youy post back with your model number I can research to find a part number for you. I will also give you step-by-step instructions on how to replace it. I hope this helps.