20 Most Recent Westinghouse WWS833ES Super Capacity Top Loading Washer w/ Precision Wash System - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi,
You are correct, the green wire is ground. You may be able to connect to the same location as the green wire from the unit.
The white is neutral and the red and black are both 110V (your unit uses 220V).
Here is a link to a picture. I hope it helps:

http://repair2000.com/cord.html

On a three wire configuration, the ground and the negative are tied together at the center position, using the dryer ground strap. Following is a description of the difference between three and four wire. Hope it helps you.
These two pictures illustrate the power wiring on a the terminal of an electric dryer. The one on top/left is the old-style three-wire configuration. Most people have this type in their homes. New code changes, though, require that dryers now have a four-wire cord, shown on the bottom/right.
Besides the number of wires in each cord, there are two important things to notice. First, in the four-wire configuration, notice that the dryer's grounding strap is folded back on itself. The whole point of the four-wire cord is to separate the ground from the neutral. The green wire (the "new" extra wire in the four-wire cord) is attached to the dryer cabinet. In the three-wire configuration, the grounding strap is left intact and the neutral and ground are tied together.


Sure hope this helps you find a resolution to your delimma! Best wishes.

Check these:

• If your washer spins but does not pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that is attached to the pump or even into the pump itself. It it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

• To remove the item from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Using a needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the stuck item through the port.

I just solved this problem myself. It's the lid lock mechanism which is located under the top cover. When I manually moved the aluminum locking tab over my washer prompty drained and spun. There are four wires total going to the switch. Well, the solid white and the white/red wires control the lid lock mechanism. You can either replace the entire switch or bypass the lid lock by wire nutting the two wires I previously mentioned together. Now, if you bypass, be forewarned the lid will open while the washer spins very fast which presents a potential danger. For immediate use, bypass until you get the replacement switch. Hope this helps your problem.

Your washer has likely become unbalanced. I'm assuming you have a top load washer. Really your only option is to call the people you bought it from and have them perform maintenance. The repair itself should be quick, easy and cheap. Your big costs will come from paying for labor to just get the repairman out there. I'm hoping you have insurance.

sometimes people leave the shipping screw in the bottom of the washer you look underneath in the center for a 3/8 bolt

check bearings or shock absorber.

Check this website out. It has a good questions and answers section. I would guess that it is the water inlet valve in the washer, but it could be a few different things.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp

I know of a different site that has good prices on parts. I have ordered from them numerous times. Let me know if you need that link.

Go here:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5148891

Scroll down to the bottom of the left side under the "Select Diagram" tab and you'll find the "Wiring diagram" link. Click it for the diagram. You can then right-click on the diagram when it comes up and select "view image." That will show it to you in a single window so you can copy and print it.

press in clips each corner with putty knife and lift top remove screws bottom front panel slide panel down and off ..locate pump. turn washer to spin and switch on if faint hum felt at pump more than likely plugged with something if pump is running fine ck for something in drain lines..most washers i would say lid switch but on those i believe if switch was bad wouldn't aditate either ck by raising lid ..if agitates with lid raised ck lid switch if not switch ok

no its a remote electric pump,no belt.its ither blocked or fail.cut power,pop top remove frount cover an you will see pump.white or tan.remove hoses[watch out 4 water and check 4 blockage

the screen is located inside the water valve. you will need to take the hose of of the valve and take a small flat screw driver and pull the screen out

Lid lock mechanism is bad and needs to be replaced. To unlock lid take off front and you'll see what to do. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks

Check that the drain hose is not opbstructed first, that is the most common cause for this problem.

I called Frigidaire technical support, they informed me that the capacity is 2.7 c/feet.

Possible your outlet filter is blocked, it need periodic cleaning, which the user can do himself. Locate where this is from your user's manual. Clean out, re-fix. Next it could be the hose that goes from the bottom of the tub to the filter pump; check the former first. Well, you have a record of sorts, 30 years!!

check the transmission out or it can be a clutch problem

Just try "2" if it frozen your food again and if happen like that,the problem is in defrost heater,check this out..

hope this may help;


DON'T FORGET TO RATE:

Regards,
VOTIT

Try turning the breaker off for the oven. Wait a few moments then turn the breaker back on. See if the error message has gone away. If not you may need to repost with more information .