20 Most Recent 1995-1997 Chevy 1500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch - Page 2 Questions & Answers

What type of ignition problems do you have. The more information I have, the better I can help you solve your problem.

Is the engine slow cranking, hard to start or cranks over but will not run? Slow cranking would be battery or starter problem and the cranking but not running could be a fuel problem or lack of power to the ignition system. When it does not start, spray a little starting fluid into the throttle body and try it. If it starts, bad fuel pump or relay. If a no start continues, pull a plug wire and check to see if it has spark.

Wiring colors for what system?

Big fat red wire from battery to the large post on the large solenoid post and the small purple wire on the small post on solenoid. If there are 2 small posts, use the one marked ign.

Take a sharp pick and with a hammer slowly remove the broken insert a little bit at a time.

Remove cooling fan, all belts, radiator shroud, pulleys, water pump and harmonic balancer. Probably will need to remove the alternator and power steering pump also. Drain the coolant. loosen the oil pan removing the front 2 bolts on both sides. Take all bolts from the timing chain cover. Carefully remove it from the engine. You should be looking at the old timing chain. Rotate the crank until the two dots, one on the cam gear and the other on the crank gear, are positioned together. Cam gear dot on the bottom, crank gear dot on the top. Take out the 3 cam gear bolts. Slide both gears towards the radiator keeping them lined up. Install in reverse order.

Torque Specs( jegs.com)

Always torque bolts in three equal increments

Bolts or Parts Lube or Sealer Torque to: 7/16 Main Caps (2 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Inner Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. 3/8 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs. 3/8 Connecting Rod Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. 11/32 Connecting Rod Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. Cylinder Heads Engine oil (blind hole) Sealer (water jacket) 65 ft-lbs. Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs. Oil Pump Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs. Cam Sprocket (upper gear) Thread Locker 20 ft-lbs. Timing Cover Engine Oil 6 ft-lbs. Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs. Valve Cover Engine Oil 3 ft-lbs. Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 25 ft-lbs. Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs. Flexplate (Automatic) Flywheel (Clutch) Thread Locker 60 ft-lbs. Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 35 ft-lbs. Centerbolt (Harmonic Damper) Engine Oil 60 ft-lbs. Bellhousing (Transmission to Block) Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs

This model of Chevrolet uses a throttle body fuel injection. When you state that it does not take the gas, do you mean that the engine cranks over but will not start? If so, first take off the air filtering system and with a flashlight look down the throttle bore while someone cranks cranks over the engine. You should be able to see fuel spraying down the bore. If not, check fuel pressure. If that is ok check to see if the wires going to the throttle body injectors go on and off while cranking. You could have a fuel problem or an electrical problem.

Here is the firing order for your vehicle. Good Luck.

You have many problems. 1. For the fuel pump i. Check fuel pump fuse in fuse panel. ii. Turn on the ignition key to start position without engine cranking. iii. Listen at the same time for 2 seconds if you can hear the sound of the fuel pump near the fill fuel neck (remove the fuel cap). iiii. At the fuel pump relay place, a test light back probes the green wire or trigger wire with a test light. It is activated by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for 2 seconds (priming the fuel system). /When you start the engine, that same wire will receive a + signal but steady. Then you should find your fuel pump problem. (could be the fuel pump itself not working). If you need to change the fuel pump. You have to remove the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is halfway down (before removing the fuel pump) test the + signal at the tank (could be a wires problems) 2. The neutral light problem belongs to the neutral switch system (PRNDL) attach to transmission. 3. Starter Problem i. Could be rusted positive and negative connections at the battery (Voltage drop in the + battery terminal should not be more than 500mv. if more remove terminal and clean it. Same thing at the starter motor's end (Same thing with the ground at the Battery to the engine. if OK then the starter motor itself is the defect. Hope it helps.

The fuel tank float assembly is the likely culprit for your bad fuel level readings at the gauge. In fifty plus years of working on cars/motorcycles/boats I've never replaced a fuel gauge because it wasn't accurate.

chevy 350 wiring diagram to distributor Google Search We Are Here To Help !! Donald Deane MCSE,MASTER ASE,CPO

heres how to remove wiring and ignition switch!!!

Pre-Removal

• Front exhaust pipe

REMOVE

1. Starter terminal and connector.
2. Starter motor.

INSTALL

1. Starter motor.
2. Starter terminal and connector.

Post-Installation

• Front exhaust pipe

Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting-2.5L engine To install:

1. Clean both surfaces of the starter motor flange and the rear plate. This is important since the starter grounds through its case and the transaxle flange to which it attached. Some remanufactured starters may have paint on these areas which should be cleaned off before installation. Install the starter motor onto the transaxle and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20-25 ft. lbs. (26-33 Nm).
2. Connect the electrical harness connectors to the starter.
3. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper operation.

2.5L Engine See Figures 8 through 14

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts.
4. Place a drain pan under the oil filter to prevent oil spillage, then remove the oil filter.

Fig. Fig. 8: Loosen the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 9: Location of the positive battery cable nut (1) and the push-on solenoid connector (2) Fig. Fig. 10: After removing the oil filter for access, unfasten the retaining nut and disconnect the positive battery cable Fig. Fig. 11: Disengage the push-on starter solenoid connector

1. Remove the positive battery cable retaining nut and battery cable from the starter.
2. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the starter unit to the transaxle.
4. Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide clearance for the starter motor. The exhaust pipe does not have to be separated from the pipe-to-manifold threaded studs.
5. Remove the starter unit from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the 3 starter motor-to-transaxle housing attaching bolts Fig. Fig. 13: Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 14: Carefully remove the starter motor from the vehicle To install:

1. Install the starter unit onto the transaxle and install the 3 mounting bolts.
2. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

Before reconnecting any wiring to the starter solenoid, clean the wire terminals of any dirt or corrosion.

1. Reconnect the positive battery terminal and retaining nut to the starter solenoid post. Tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
2. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Reinstall the oil filter.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

run the fault codes as the EVAP system may not be venting properly

I will assume the engine is turning over. Are you getting fuel up to the fuel rail? When you turn the key on, but not to start, do you hear the fuel pump hum for a moment before it turns off? Have you checked all the fuses?

Crankshaft position sensor is in the front of the engine under the harmonic balancer on the right side.

If you have fire and fuel to the throttle body check the plugs and see if there is fuel on the plugs if none remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust and see if it starts. If it does the cat or the muffler is plugged. When these get plugged they put back pressure on the engine and won't allow the fuel to the cylinders.

Look under the dash behind the glove compartment to the left. To do so you will need to remove the glove compartment to see them on the top of the heater housing.

sounds like the ecm has it in limp home mode. If the truck is later than 1996 you can put a scanner on the down link and read the code. If not go on you tube and see the video on how to check prior models for the code.