yay I emailed schumacher asking about this and they got bak to me within 12 hours or so with EXACTLY what I neededI looked a long, long time without finding anything like this online, and many different people asking the same questionsso please save this picture for your records, and if you have a minute, go post it on an unanswered schumacher battery charger wiring diagram question
I'm working on one right now. Not sure if it's the SE-4022 but the ratings are the same. 200/100/40/10/2 Amps. The rectifier diodes exploded in it. ie: Big bang, and smoke. Smoke is never a good thing. Pulled it apart. The diodes are press fit like a lot of car alternators. The number on the diodes is DT B7504A XXXX (Last four digits are a date code. Not important.) The diodes are made by DioTec BUT, they don't sell "retail". They supply manufacturing. I talked to DT's top guy and he told me to get the NTE5934 diodes from Newark Electronics. (Google it if you're not familiar with them.) Present price is $5.24 each. (ie: Cheap.)You have to press the old ones out and press the new ones in. I removed the aluminum plate from the unit and pressed out the old ones with my drill press. Put a deep socket (3/4") under the blown diode sitting on the drill table. Tighten the chuck so the nose is closed and sticking out. Push out diode with the nose of the chuck. Pressing the new ones in is more tricky. Keep the 3/4" socket under the plate. You then want a DEEP socket big enough to just press on the metal around the perimeter of the new diodes. BUT NOT TOUCH the insulator/pin part. You should be able to use the chuck nose against the back of the socket to push the new diodes in. I suggest using some heat sink compound or dielectric grease on the diode before pressing it in. Helps prevent corrosion between the metal plate and diode. THE DIODE HAS TO BE VERY TIGHT IN THE PLATE WHEN PRESSED IN. If it's loose at all, it won't transfer heat to the plate, the diode will overheat, and do pretty much the same as it's predecessor. If the diode(s) are loose after you install them, press them out again, and see if you can "close" the hole up a bit. Suggestion: put the plate on a flat metal surface (back of vise?) with the "flare" of metal facing up. Tap on that flare with a hammer that has a large enough head to hit the whole flare at once. Don't do too much. Try the diode again. Still too lose? Remove and tap again with hammer. Pain in the **** I know, but it's the only way I can see to get the diodes tight. DON'T use epoxy or "glue" in place of tightening the metal. The glue won't transfer the heat. As long as there is nothing else wrong with the charger, this will cost less than $15.00 plus your time. A lot cheaper than buying a new charger.
Firstly Im sure you could place a piece of cardboard or somthing between the paintwork and the device. Secondly it will be a negative earth with the pole on the battery having a - {minus} symbol. The chassis is not the engine block it can be any metal part of the car body. Undo a bolt from a panel and connect your earth to it. Why not just disconnect the battery from the car ? If you are still unsure perhaps get a qualafied person to check for you.
When the switch is ON, the light operates in dusk-to-dawn mode. In this mode, the light automatically turns on at sunset and turns off at sunrise. When the switch is off, the light stays off.
Press P (program )on the timer and display will show then change the desired day, time and minute using the D+, H+ and M+ buttons. Press P again to set up another program and repeat the second step as above
Clear memory by pushing the reset button on the timer then reprogram using your current schedule when you want the timer to go off/on. Use the day and clock buttons for this then press enter
No, the timer should not make any noise. The noise should be a result of loose connections which cause arcing, which can make a humming or buzzing sound.
If you find that you still notice the sound, even when the main breaker is off then the problem is not electrical in nature.
Question edited for clarity and add a header in order with spaces and CAPS.
It appears Micromark got out or the timer business. There is a similar one in another Fixya post, and a link to them.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Micromark+MM+9565+timer
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OXOhttps://www.oxo.com > wysiwyg > PDF_Files
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The clock is set. • To set timer, press any button to enter timer mode. A timer icon will appear on the LCD screen. Press the and buttons to set the timer.
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Try a Power Reset. Disconnect all mains power to it for 15 minutes, press and hold any button for 1 minute. Reconnect the power. If that doesn't fix it, the thermostat has failed and you need a new one. Most have backup batteries that can cause the issue you are seeing, but the manual doesn't mention anything about batteries in the base unit.
