Intermatic 7 Day Electronic Timer Eh10 Spst 120v - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question posted under 120volt Intermatic Eh10 timer.
I do not have repairs for defective timer.
EH10 has 1 year limited warranty.

Located just below the digital display is compartment for AA battery.
Display is controlled by battery.
Replace battery, press and hold reset button for several seconds to reset timer, and try to program again.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#EH10
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/eh10-manual.pdf

EH10 and EH40 timers are susceptible to line noise.
If timer is connected to water heater, there is no line noise. And electrician tested for shorting wires.
But when timer is connected to fan, pump, or other type of load, then interference can be a problem.
Intermatic can provide a filter.
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx

Digital timers, digital water heaters, digital washer and dryer, digital water softener, digital treadmill, etc are increasingly common, yet are not protected from surge.
People protect computers and TVs, but forget other costly items.
EH10 can be affected by surge.
Install whole house surge protection:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#surge

Online manual for GM40:
http://www.intermatic.com/products/grasslin/electromechanical%20time%20switches/multi-voltage%20time%20switches.aspx

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/grasslin/gm40%20-%20english.ashx

You own a high-quality time piece.
I have defrost versions of same timer and have tested aspects of the timer, and own few FM1 series clock mechanisms for various projects.

Complete run down for setting GM40:
1) For 240Volt the dip switches are set: Please set dip switches before applying power to timer.
4-OFF
2-ON
3-OFF
1-ON

2) Line wires are the Hot wires from breaker box.
Line wires connect to terminals L1 and L2N

3) Load wire are wires that go from the timer to water heater.

4) Jumper wires are short lengths of same gauge wire.

5) There are many ways to wire GM40 timer
Open manual and look at wiring diagram titled: Controlling one 240VAC (Dual Phase) Load

6) A jumper wire is added from terminal L1 to COM
Another jumper wire is added from terminal L2N to COM2

7) Load wires going to water heater are connected to NO and NO2

8) Following image shows typical FM1 timer dial:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/FM1-timer-002-350.jpg
As timer dial rotates the pins move small red switch that turns Load on-off.
Move pins in-or-out to control Load.

9) If you are uncertain about your pins, then set 20 consecutive pins one direction and then manually rotate dial and watch green indicator light turn on-off.
Put tester across NO and NO2 terminals and check when 240V turns on.

10) If you have defective timer, contact Intermatic:
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx

11) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

1) You need 120V timer to control 2 amp water pump.
V x A = watts so 120V x 2amp = 240 watt
754 watts per HP divided by 240W = 1/3 HP horsepower.

2) To get 1 minute time periods, you need electronic timer.
Most electronic timers have minimum 1 minute set time.
Same schedule each day, you can use 356-day, 7-day or 24-hour electronic timer.

3) To have electronic timer last longer than 3 years you need a clean circuit and expensive timer.
Use circuit analyzer to check circuit. Hire electrician to check circuit and replace pump if necessary to make sure timer will last as long as possible.

4) Intermatic ET70115C should last for many years. Battery is replaced every 8 years.
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/electronic%20time%20switches/next%20generation%20time%20switches.aspx
ET70115C $379
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3391/ELEC-ET70115C.html

5) You posted under EH10 water heater timer, which is inexpensive water heater timer rated for 1HP. You can't expect inexpensive timer to last as long when using a motor, although 1/3 HP is lightweight motor.

6) You can buy five EH10's for same price as one ET70115C.

7) List of ordinary electronic timers, each with slightly different features
Intermatic EH10 $73
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EH10-Electronic-Heater-Indoor/dp/B000GHIPOA
Intermatic ET1105C $96
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-ET1105C-Hour-Electronic-Switch/dp/B002X1FYWI
Intermatic ET101 $101
http://www.westsidewholesale.com/24-hour-programmable-electronic-timer.html
Tork EW100B $177
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/8434/TORK-EW101B.html
Sylvania SA300 $72
http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-SA300-120-Volt-Single-Pole-Industrial/dp/B000KKNEO4

8) See wiring diagrams and manuals for some of the timers listed above:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Boxtype.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

1) Reset the timer.

Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't and timer has gone bad.
Manual for EH10
http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-EH10-EH40-Operating.pdf

2) Manual says:
"If the display
has scrambled information, check to be sure that
the polarity orientation of the battery is as shown on
the cover label, then press the RESET switch and hold
for at least two seconds."

3) If display shows, then contacts are good.
EH40 and EH10 have same battery carriage.

4) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
We are always less expensive than a service call.

If you have voltage drop it would not effect the clock motor it would effect the light farthest from the house.Every 75 from the power source the wire needs to be the next larger size up. Example #12 to #10 to#8 to#6etc

Good choice for 120V water heater.

Black Hot wire from breaker connects to terminal 2.
Put jumper wire from terminal 2 to terminal 3.

White wire from breaker box connects to terminal 1
White wire going to water heater also connects to terminal 1

Black wire going to water heater connects to terminal 4

add a comment if you have more problems.

EH10 has four screw terminals: 1 2 3 4
EH10 has two screw terminals exclusively for electronic clock motor.
These terminals connect exclusively to clock ... there is no internal jumper that passes power to another terminal.

Terminals 2 and 3) Black Hot lead connects to two terminals. Hot connects to terminal 2 and to terminal 3 ... so you put a jumper wire between terminals 2 and 3.

Terminal 1) All neutral or white wires connect to terminal 1, so there are two white wires on terminal 1.

Terminal 4) Black wire going to 120V Load connects to terminal 4.

Contrast EH10-electronic-timer with T-101-electro-mechanical-timer. T-104 clock motor has two separate wires that connect to terminals A and 1. Electronic clock doesn't have those separate wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Back-of-WH40-2b.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T101

Your second question about closing the circuit.
When timer turns ON, it closes circuit between terminals 3 and 4.
So the Hot is closed.
Neutral is not closed, it is open at all times.
EH10 is SPST timer ... One single pole is opened-and-closed (SP), and timer completes action with a single throw (ST)

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/eh10-manual.pdf

The EH10 is 120V digital timer.
The timer offers the following days:
-All 7 days
-Monday thru Friday
-Saturday and Sunday
-Each individual day
-Blankday (day skipper)

If I understand your schedule:
You want
Program1 ON at 8am Sunday
Program1 OFF at 10pm Sunday
Program2 ON at 8am Monday thru Friday (with blankday on Friday)
program2 OFF at 10pm Monday thru Friday (with blankday on Friday)

Program3 ON at 8am Friday
Program3 OFF at 11pm Friday
Program4 ON at 8am Saturday
Program4 OFF at 11pm Saturday

I filled in the chart for you.
I left off the display.
I do not have this timer and don't know 100% how the display looks without buying the timer.



If you need more help on a specific step in the manual, add a comment and I will answer.

Reading the broad description I would have said "yes if you can identify the input and output of each separate circuit. However the description says

• Selector switch to determine input voltage between 120-277 VAC

So you have to select the voltage on it. It appears there are also various model differences to the 1725 series designated by a letter at the end after the '5'. ET1725C, ET1725CR Ask their support https://www.intermatic.com/Product/ET1725C?setcontextlanguagecode=en https://www.google.com/search?q=Intermatic+1725+switch+220+and+110+simultaneously ..

There is troubleshooting in the link plus contact direct to Intermatic. You can get parts and yes an electrician would probably look at it for you if you don't wish to try yourself. Make sure the centre knob screw is tight and make sure the On/Off tappets are tight.. https://www.google.com/search?q=Intermatic+timer+repair

main ' Contact Us

Intermatic https://www.intermatic.com > Support > Contact-Us Timer Controls · Defrost Timers · LAE Refrigeration Controls · Hour Meters ... Troubleshooting • Warranty • Wiring. Technical Support Form. For assistance with:.

24-Hour 240V Electronic Panel Mount Timer Replacement Kit

Intermatic https://www.intermatic.com > Product Intermatic University. Explore our catalog of courses to learn about Intermatic Electrical, HVAC/R, Pool & Spa and Utility products.

main ' Warranty & Claims

Intermatic https://www.intermatic.com > Support > Warranty-Clai... If within the warranty period specified, this product fails due to a defect in material or workmanship, Intermatic Incorporated will repair or replace it, at ..... .. It says Pool Pump, but they are all similar

I would suggest you get a qualified electrician to look at this. If you've not touched it in 20 years the mechanism inside may need checking for age related faults. Even when not used some parts can cause issues as they get old.

If the fan won't shut off after replacing the Intermatic E-1020, there may be a few potential causes to consider. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue: Check the wiring: Double-check that the wiring is correct and that all connections are secure. Make sure that the Intermatic E-1020 is wired into the circuit correctly and that the fan is wired into the Intermatic correctly. Refer to the wiring diagram in the installation instructions to ensure everything is in the right place. Verify the settings: The Intermatic E-1020 has multiple settings, including time settings and override settings. Make sure that the timer is set correctly and that any overrides are disabled. Check the manual for the specific settings and instructions on how to adjust them. Test the switch: Verify that the on/off switch for the fan is working properly. Turn off the power to the circuit and disconnect the switch. Test the switch with a multimeter to ensure that it is functioning correctly. Check the fan: Verify that the fan is working properly. It's possible that the fan itself is faulty and is causing the issue. Turn off the power to the circuit and remove the cover for the fan. Test the fan motor with a multimeter to ensure that it is functioning correctly. If none of these steps resolve the issue, it may be necessary to consult with an electrician or HVAC technician for further assistance.

If the light on your Intermatic EJ500 timer is not turning off completely, it could be due to a faulty relay switch or a loose connection. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Reset the timer: Turn off the power to the timer, wait for a few minutes, and then turn it back on. This will reset the timer and may fix any issues that were causing the light to stay on.
2. Check the wiring: Make sure all the wiring connections are tight and secure. If any of the wires are loose, tighten them with a screwdriver.
3. Replace the relay switch: If the relay switch is faulty, it may need to be replaced. You can purchase a replacement switch and follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation.
4. Check the light bulb: Make sure the light bulb is the correct wattage and type for the timer. If the bulb is not compatible, it may cause the light to stay on even when the timer is turned off.

If these steps do not resolve the issue, it may be best to consult a professional electrician or contact Intermatic customer support for further assistance.

That sounds like a tricky problem. I suggest you try contacting the pool guy again and see if they can provide some more information or advice on how to resolve the issue. It may be a simple fix, such as reconfiguring the settings on the Intermatic timer, or it could be a more complex issue that requires more detailed troubleshooting.

No one appears to have tried this before as it is more often used as a Pool Timer, But what you need is the Switch and the Timer wires in parallel. So live to the timer and also to the switch, and negative to the timer and the switch. In that way either the light switch or the timer can switch the lights on and off. https://www.google.com/search?q=wire+a+T104+intermatic+timer+on+a+277v+light+circuit+with+a+switch+already+installed ..

copy and paste https://www.intermatic.com/userfiles/documents/tb121%20-%20instructions%20-%20en_fr.pdf ..

It sounds like there may be an issue with the display or the power supply of your Intermatic EH10 timer. First, check to see if the power supply is providing the correct voltage and amperage to the timer. If the power supply is working correctly, then it is likely that the issue is with the timer and you may need to have it serviced or replaced.

It sounds like the timer may have been affected by the power outage and is not functioning properly. If the timer is a mechanical timer, you can try resetting the time on the timer and check if the trippers (ON/OFF pointers) are set to the correct time and are not loose. If the trippers are loose, then they could slip and cause issues with the pump turning on/off at the correct times. You can also try lubricating the manual on/off switch with a lubricant such as WD-40. If the timer is a digital timer, you can try replacing the battery to see if that resolves the issue.

personally I would replace it, and not look back.

the contacts on the switch are bad replace timer