Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Look on the nut and see if it is indicated which way it should turn. Put a wrench on it and use a dead blow rubber hammer to strike it while holding the wrench in place. I will warn you this might damage the blade lock if you hit it too hard.

If you type "Makita LS1216L" into a search engine (Bing, Google, Yahoo, etc.) you'll be presented with several options to buy from like eBay and Amazon and several independent dealers. You can also get them through The Home Depot's website where, depending on a nearby store you can have it delivered to the store to avoid shipping charges and you don't have to accept it if it arrives damaged.

Sound like you have a spring missing or streched out

Because the locknut on grinders are threaded to be self tightening, they can get lodged on quite tight. If it's stuck that bad, put the body of the grinder snuggly in a vice but don't crack the casing. Make sure the arbor lock is seated well and put all the pressure you can on the locknut wrench you can muster. If it still won't come loose, squirt some liquid wrench on the arbor-locknut gap and let it soak in.

The fuel inlet needle in the carb is leaking, replace the needle with a new one, the needle is rubber tipped and will wear espesially on a power cutter due to dust in the fuel tank, when replacing the diaphram make sure the gasket goes to the carb first followed by the diaphram and cover, the gasket is used as a spacer, so if the diaphram goes on first it will be too close to the metering lever and will leak.

The DPC7311 is a two-stroke demolition saw, there should be no standing fluids, oil or otherwise in the crank case to leak out. The reason it uses a 50-to-1 gas-to-oil mix is so the oil in the gas can settle on the moving parts and lubricate them. If you do have anything leaking anywhere out of your crankcase you most likely have problems with your carburator in that too much fuel is getting into and filling up the crankcase. You should also look to make sure your leak isn't coming from a crack in the fuel tank or from the carburator or fuel line and running down to look like it's coming from the crankcase.

i take it youve fitted the decompression valve?

After taking the bearig box off the head, remove the retaining ring and wave washer on top of the gear. Some spindles can be tapped out of the gear with a hammer but be extremely careful not to mushroom the spindle head. It's best to take it off with a hydraulic press. There is a woodruff key in there so be careful not to loose that when you press the spindle out of the gear. The new gear should be pressed back on also.

go to Makitatools.com and type in the model number 2711 and you can download the owners manual. If I have helped you with your request would you please rate this response accordingly. Thank you

you have a switch problem that needs to be fixed ASAP, you can go to either makitausa.com and type in your model number or to ereplacementparts.com for a replacement switch. If you have a local repair center they usually have them also. MAKE note of the wiring before removing the switch. Let me know if you need more assistance.

Hi,

Click here for an exploded view of your saw...

I think part 79 is the part you are referring too...

It does not look like it will be too hard to get it placed and everything back together...

heatman101

I usually order parts for this saw from ereplacement parts. The following link will take you there however I just chose a model at random for basic idea of parts.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dpc6411-power-cutter-parts-c-97_1549_3715.html

To make a lasting repair on rewind on large and hard to start saws, I always use a new rewind spring with backplate and make sure that the rewind spool or (cable drum) as they call it is in good condition.
If you would like to use the old parts, make sure that the spring backing plate is in good condition. The backing plate has the pin to hold the outer ring of the spring and thin raised plastic rim to hold the spring in place once wound into the retainer. The inner part of the spring has a u-shaped catch and slips into place when you pull the rope. The backing plate is very important. Once the spring and backplate are in position, spray with teflon lube. You need to use lubricant that will not attract dirt (do not use oil).
Some saws do not use a plastic back plate. The retaining pin and spring guide are built into the starter cover.
When in place, the rewind spool should mate with the spring when you turn the spool in direction that the spool turns when you pull the rope. When you pull the rope, you are winding the spring. Continue to turn/wind the spool until the spring can not turn any more, then unwind one turn to align the hole on the spool to the rope bushing on the cover. Insert rope thru hole on cover into hole on spool and tie knot. Let rope into spool until it can hold no more and stops turning (starter rope is sold in various thickness, use exact thickness or not enough rope will fit into spool, if too thin rope will fit easily, however will break easier, use high quality ). Before you tie handle to rope, pull on rope till it reaches the end and let rewind several times to test your work.

worn blade, replace it

there is a screw in the bottom of grinder next to the power cord, that's all you have to take.
(althought I don't know the model of your grinder, the most of makita brands have the screw right there) good luck!

you can try going to "makitausa.com" and type in your model number for the manual

they generally have what is called "garter springs" which go around the brush holder. the new field should have these installed already. If you give me the model and brand (shows MAKITA) I will look at a breakdown and confirm.

Unfortunately that is just to thick of material to cut with a jig saw blade. Plywood is made up of several layers and your blade is trying to follow the grain on one of them. You can try a metal blade and high motor speed low travel rate, but it will quickly heat up the blade and warp it making your problem worse if you don't stop often. If you are trying to make straight and curved cuts, I have the best luck with a rotary cutter such as the roto zip, but plywood easily snaps the bits.

no it doesn't. the arcing you are seeing is the electric brake which created a short to stop the rotation in a matter of seconds. If it is arcing during operation that is a different problem. Just to be on the safe side, unplug tool and remove the brushes taking note of which way they came out (they will have a wear pattern) and if you put them in upside down the brake might want to work properly, if they are worn short I would replace them and run the tool about 5 minutes no load to seat the new brushes. Let me know if you need more assistance.

Problem has to be the blade is not coming straight down and straight forward.
So it sounds like a bit of play in the mechanism, or slightly bent shaft.
Just buy another one, and buy another brand.
If the same brand and model is sold at box store, then clean it up and take it back as defective.
If this is expensive professional model, then look up a service center and send it away for repairs, but don't expect it to be better, and then be surprised if they fixed it.

We used to keep two of every tool on the job in case of failure, and then we didn't have down time if tool needed repair.
But most of the time. I just bought another one so we could keep moving. And took old one to pawn shop.

one screw should be your idle adjustment one srcew will be the low jet start with a turn and a quarter with saw running at idle turn srew in both directions until it dies down then set the screw in the middle for the high jet start with the same setting but the final adjusment must be made with engine at full throttle adjust until max rpm is abtained and the back it off just a little bit too make sure you are not above max rpm