Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

1 inch to 20mm Brass Ring Adapter Reducer Bushing for Diamond Saw Blades Or is the flange of the blade sometimes wrong, the flange where the blade sits on can sometimes accidentally reversed and then you're on a bevel

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blade bone or sitting upside down on the machine or the drive shaft is worn

take the cover of a pack of cigarette paper then its most of the times right.

For every machine if it is not working begin measure on the power cable if its not defect measure the carbon brushes to each other over the commutator of the armature (maybe only the auto-stop inside the brushes is activated ) when the brushes become to short there comes a little spring from inside the brush out to protect. measure the 2 or 4 electric field contacts to measure the 2 coils if that's good then measure the switch the capacitors ? no that is only on some machines called feedthrough capacitors like the brand FLEX has on its grinders , but Makita have i not seen in 20 years the capacitors in machines with brushes ( not induction motors) for only radio interference suppression you can without problems remove them it has nothing to do in function. switch and electronic can be defect this model 9017 is not common in my country but every machine has the same principle.

VERY IMPORTANT to tell you MAKITA HAS MODIFICATED the switch assembly and battery connector !!!!! of this device . If you have a saw with the 2 contacts in the connectorplate then the problem of an to early defect battery is possible by missing of a thirt protect connector to protect a to deep discharged battery . The new switch assembly has 3 contacts a - and a + and the very important Low Voltage Disconnect contact that should shut off in one time the machine it looks like its defect but its not !! thats the protection and then only take the battery in the charger . Because there must be a little dc in the battery left for the charger accept, if the battery is to low the charger will not accept the battery anymore then you will have to take the battery to someone with a special cadex charger to boost the dc again in or go to a special makita service , hold as much as possible the batteries on the charger to last the battery life. the best is if you have no protected 3 contacts connector to build it over Makita has moost of the time a little ridge on one side of the battery connector (marketing technical) because of the modification on the new connectorplate so it wont fit in the old housing hihihiiii but i I just cut it off with pliers and file it smooth, its easy so I can just use the old machine housing again you need for modification IF YOU NEED ?? or you have the new 3 contacts machine already and don,t know before of the stop function by lowered battery. but otherwise you need a new switch and connector both.

I've also been wondering me, I think the ankercommutator (collectors) where the brush is not flat enough, which is probably ingrained that cave. I set the anchor with a bearing on a lathe and the axis of the anchor in a drill and a fresh file (lack of a lathe) and I had some improvement.

Sound like the motor finally went to motor heaven. If you have an ohm meter do a continuity test of the motor. Should be a low ohm reading. If high or infinity, fogit it. One last thought! - check the motor brushes !!!!!!!!!!!!! If no contact with commutator the motor will not not be energized.

replace brushes

Bad drive gear http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/saw/jig-saw.html?brand=Makita&ad=7871623319 Makita Jig Saw Parts Tool Parts Direct

Where did the petrol come out from? The tank lid or the muffler or somewhere else?

so,remember that and move the wood to the left or find someone that knows how to operate a saw

you are cutting to the right,the mark on the saw is only a reference,it is up to you to figure where to saw

It's on the righthand side of the saw at the hinge area in the back. If that is unlocked then it could be the guard linkage hanging up.

lots of sparks means your brushes are used up, broken or stuck. Replace them. If that is not the problem, it could be you over heated the motor, very difficult to do, and the motor is about to die. Check brushes first. You can tell by examining your graphite brushes. Use a straight screw driver and unscrew the black cap that holds the brushes in place.

Maybe you accidently pushed the safety lock on it. Most power tools do come with a safety lock. Check your owner's manual and see where to unlock it.

The nut is not on the bottom, but under the snapout kerf plates. You remove the plastic kerf plates to access the bolt. Once you remove the nut the turntable will lift straight up and off. Check the stainless steel wear plate at the rear for burrs or wear. Do not use oil or wd40 etc - it will collect sawdust and cause problems down the road. I recommend a pure silicone spray that will dry completely and provide lubrication.

If you have removed the kerf boards and the center bolt the saw will lift straight off the turn base. It is possible the aluminum is deformed a little, but it will pull straight up and off if that bolt is out

Makitatools.com is a company website, look under support,tablesaws, manuals. Good luck