Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Concept MS100 mitre saw blade guard dillema.
I have changed the blade a few times, There is no need to remove the spring, etc. All you do is remove the bolt holding the guard and rotate it counter clockwise and it exposes the blade.
I am looking for parts for this saw. Anyone know where to get them?
Cornice mitre angle
Try this ... http://www.constructionknowledge.net/public_domain_documents/Div_6_Woods_Plastics/Partial%20Carpentry%20pdfs/Finishing_Roofs_NAVEDTRA_14044.pdf
I can not remove armature caseing
Dave,The only thing i could offer would be try and look at one like that or a Bosch that ia all ready set up. of course there;s always the option of calling the company. I love those saws my 12 inchRigid takes up too much space.Good Luck.
Slide mechanism is stiff
linear bearing problemclean them with brake cleaner and compressed airthe balls should roll freely in the grooves inside bearingspush balls into the slots with compressed air to remove the dirt and then a little bit of oil and it should work.
How do u change out bushes on a makita ls1013
there are 2 black screw caps on the outside of the tool that need to be removed. USE a good quality blade and right size to avoid chipping the caps. UNPLUG TOOL first and remove the old ones and replace with new and reassemble. They might arc for a short period of time depending on the commutator wear. Run at NO LOAD for about 10 minutes. Let me know if you still have a problem
Makita LS1013 Sliding Compound Mitre saw will not
my saw had this exact same problem, here's how i fixed mine.
okay so here's a schematic of the saw
whether you have the exact same issue as my saw, in order to further
investigate you need to get to the mechanism that locks the saw. To do
this you need to take the turn base (140) off the foot base (156) .
its really not too hard, just a little awkward setting the saw in
different positions to remove the various parts.
Specifically on mine I had issues with the threaded rod (118) not
screwing into the stopper holder (135). You'll see this part when you
flip the saw upside down.
So to remove the turn base(140) from the foot base (156)....
Remove the kerf board (108) and under you will see a big bolt, go ahead
and remove this. Then there are 4 more bolts which take off the guide
rule (117), this what your piece of wood is put against when making the
cut. Once these 5 bolts are out, the turn base can now be separated
from the feet. Now you'll have a better view of the mechanics and see
what is or isn't happening when you screw the handle to lock the miter
Part 136 (turn stopper) is what actually wedges to a pocket in the foot
base which makes the saw lock. when you screw in the handle it
actuates this part. make sure that is happening. I had to take out
the threaded rod (118) and tighten it on a vice and work the stopper
holder (135) deeper onto the threaded rod. use WD 40 to help it a long.
You'll need to take off some other various parts to to get the rod
out. this will be obvious once you have everything turned over.
Now that everything is apart you can blast it with some WD40 or what you
think is best here. I used lithium grease. You'll see its especially
important to lube up the pivot post that the 2 bases center on, (where
the big bolt under the kerf board goes). also the slide plates (153) may
be rusty, they'll fall out when you separate the 2 base plates. clean
those up and spray them and anything else which will help with smooth
the only important item to check once everything is put back together is
the guide rule. this can be adjusted slightly in or out of square. Get
a nice framing square and make sure your locked in at 90 (or actually 0
degrees on the saw) Sliding the saw the full distance of the cut on
the square is ideal and maybe this was a good time to recalibrate that
hope this works.
My blade is not square to the table i,e if I make
Set your saw square using a combination square if you have one. Then to to adjust the saw to stay square there should be a gold coloured nut that you can adjust on the right side below the lever you use to unlock the saw when setting what angles you want to cut. Either move it in or out to get the proper setting. Hopefully this answers your question.
I was using my saw and the large spring popped
just found the problem, if you haven't fixed it yet let me know. There is no good way to reinstall the spring but I have done it numerous times and can talk you thru it, but you will need a press of some sort.
Hey, my drop saw wont lock off the sliding arm
there is a tube underneath and a lock mechanism. what might have happened is the lock has spread open and not putting enough pressure on the slide. Unplug the tool and turn it over and you will see the tube and lock. The lock is held in place by a phillips head screw and if the end is spread you can "GENTLY" squeeze it shut, reassemble and I think this will take care of your problem, also look for excessive wear on the lock and if so turn it 180degrees and try it that way. Let me know if you need more help.
When I turn the table
you don't adjust the table, you need to remove the table from the base and clean the surface, when you take it apart you will see what I am talking about. To do this first unplug the tool and remove the fence and kerf boards, under the kerf boards you will find a 13MM hex bolt just like on the fence, remove the bolt and lift the table off the base, clean the wear plates and lube them with a light coat of grease, on the outside rails you will see what is causing your problem, clean with a surface conditioner or fine sandpaper, lube this area also.. Make sure you do all the sides for a smooth turn, reassemble the table to the base in reverse order and install the bolt, I usually tighten all the way snug and then loosen till you can turn the table freely making sure not to loosen too much or the table will rock. Reassemble the fence squaring it to the blade and replace the kerf boards. It sounds complicated but really it is not. This is the only way you can get that metal to metal rough turning repaired. Let me know if you need more assistance
My saw wont bevel cut
OK you are on the right track, I would remove the handle assembly on the back and push the travel as far back as possible to look at the bolt for stripped threads. then what I would do is use some dry lubricant and spray the washer and the housing and let dry, after drying reassembly tightening the nut enough to hold in place and reposition the handle. then try again, it could also be messes up in the circular area but for that I would recommend taking to a repair center.
My LS1013 saw kicks back
These sliding saws are a lot like radial arm saws except it is possible to pull the slide forward, then lower the saw and cut while pushing. Some people operate their saws like this, but it's dangerous unless you use both hold-down clamps and board has no warp. When operated in this manner, the blade is pushing the board up. If the board has any room to move, it can kick. This may be what you are experiencing. On the other hand, if you operate the saw like a radial arm saw, that is, by pushing the slide all of the way back, lowering the saw and then pulling the slide toward you to finish the cut - then the blade is pushing the board down, which is safer, especially if you don't use the hold-downs. However, if the saw is not correctly aligned such that the blade is not quite parallel to the slide, then the back of the blade will tend to lift up on the board on one side. You can test for this mis-alignment with a dial indicator. Just slide the saw forward or back as the indicator rubs along the surface of the blade. Since the saw is moving along the slide, the indicator should move very little if the blade is parallel to the slide.
My Makita ls1013 has been having a problem
I would unplug tool and check the condition of the brushes. If they are worn excessively or burnt the tool won't work. Let me know what you find and I will try and help more.
When I shut the saw
could be a couple problems, loose blade flanges, dirt in the brush area or just worn brushes. I would take a look at the brushes first. UNPLUG tool before removing brush caps. Let me know if I can be or more assistance
When I pull down on the handle to make a cut the
We had a problem with our saw not working right, we found out the guard went down to far and locked it self, we took a wire tie and put it around where the guard hits and it worked fine, you should be able to do something like that. Check it out.
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