20 Most Recent Dewalt DC925 Cordless Drill Questions & Answers

hi like most clutches on hummer unit after the assembly has been done you will a way to tighten the spring clutch look for adjustment to make the spring looser and tighten

You will find them in the transmission, remove the metal cover and they will be located just under it - sounds like it is either the gear posts or the clutch cams on the nose side of the transmission DeWALT DC925 Type 1 Hammer Drill Parts

Here is DeWalt's marketing thing on the subject.

http://www.dewalt.com/us/cordless/powerrating/

Unit Watts out (UWO) is their rating for the (presumably sustainable)maximum power output at the chuck of the drill. You can read about it..their explanation is basically technically correct.

Yes, max torque is related. The maximum power in a permanent magnet DCmotor system occurs at half the maximum speed when the system is loadedwith half the maximum torque.

1hp = 746 watts, DeWalt's DC900 36V drill is claimed to be 750 watts,close enough so let's call it 1 HP ok? Their max RPM is 400. So 200 RPMis the half-way point.

1HP = 200RPM*Tmax(in-lbs)/(24*5252)

Tmax = approx 630 in-lbs

The equation I used is known equation for relating power (HP) to RPMand torque (in ft-lbs..I added in the factor of 1/12 to account for thein-lbs to ft-lbs conversion).

By the way DeWalt make some bold claims about other manufacterers' drills.

For example they claim the 18V Lok Tor by Milwaukee puts out 390 UWOcompared to their DC988 model listed as 420 UWO. Yet I have readinformation from Milwaukee's own independent tests that claim the LokTor drills faster 2 9/16" self-feeds AND more self-feeds per batterythan that very DeWalt model.

This was posted on Milwaukee's Tool Talk forum (when it existed). Ibelieve the Milwaukee official said that DeWalt averaged 7.2 secondsper hole while the Milwaukee averaged 6.4 seconds per hole. I make beoff slightly but I do remember it was around a 1 second difference.Plus the Milwaukee apparently drilled 28 holes per batt where dewaltwas 25.

I just repaired mine by removing the 4 screws that hold the clutch and transmission onto the body of the drill. Next, remove the front section of the drill and then the transmission. on the back of the transmission assembly (toward the motor, you should see a thin plate that holds the gears from falling out. Remove the plate by sliding it counter-clockwise. next, remove the large out gear to expose the bootom end of the spring loaded pin you might have noticed sticking out of the front of the transmission. carefully remove the pin and the spring,(it shoul come out in 3 pieces). Next you will need to make a shim, or spacer ( I used a wire about the same thickness as the spring) and wrap it around the pin so that the spring is spaced out just a coil or 2. next you should carefully put back together your drill and you clutch will be working much better than when you took it apart, if not like it should when it was new.
Hope this helps.... It sure made mine work great.

The switch (PN: N089938) for your drill costs between $75 & $80, so:If by "brand new, just out of the box" you mean you just bought it, bring it back to where you got it and exchange it or get your money back.If by "brand new, just out of the box" you mean you bought it, it sat somewhere for some time and you're just now using it, check to see if it's still under warranty so you can get it fixed through that.If it's out of warranty, you'll have to buy a switch to fix it. They're available on sites like www.ereplacementparts.com.

Hi my 925 has had same problem right out the box it must be an allignment thing a find a tap with the old hammer sorts it out

how did you get it back together

It should be a T-20 torx.

In the past when this has happened to me I have had to replace the chuck. Problem is, the chuck is not a normal one and the correct chuck has a list price of about 65 pound and needs a special service tool to take it off and put it on again.

you have a problem that causes a short of the battery contacts. I would recommend looking at the switch first and also look at the contacts on the battery for burning.

Check on the bottom of the handle where the battery attaches. Dewalt stamps the 'made-on-date' in the plastic there. This is the date repair centers use for warranty repairs if you don't have a receipt.

Here is a link to a parts diagram that may help.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/dewalt/DC925KA_TYPE_1