20 Most Recent Samsung RB2155SH Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you have a defective thermistor....The problem is there are 4 that deal with Fridge and Freezer compartments...There are tests that you can run from the display panel. You will not hurt anything by trying the tests...It is too difficult to explain the tests but here is a link a pdf for the RB215 that will help you if you or someone can follow directions...
Most servicers don't have a clue about this stuff....bummer

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/DA68-01778A-EN.pdf

Is he an authorized Samsung/Matag Repair Center Employee? And I believe I know the answer. But you need to communicate with me, OK? How old is your model?
Thanks, Sea Breeze

BAD PC BOARD REPLACE

I would change the sensor assembly it is part #4 in this diagram and only a 10.00 part. Seems like it may be the problem.
http://appliancehelp.com/Search_Model_Results.aspx?ModelID=283832&ModelNum=RB2155SH&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=58242&Position=0&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=0

Hello there:
here is the number that you are refering to
Door Switch DA34-00006C ok?
best regards michael

This is usually because the self defrost hose has become clogged. Turn the unit off long enough to defrost the unit and get the ice out of the tube and blow out the tube and turn the fridge or freezer back on.
This should solve it for you.
Cheers
Al

Weird scenario... the first thing I would do it to remove the interior back panel of the lower freezer section after the unit has been running for hours and check the coils to see the frost pattern on them. Should be even white frost all over the coils with no solid frozen coil (block-O-ice thing). Check the fan is running above the coils, etc. when. If everything is OK then you may have a control board problem. Let us know what you find in the freezer coil investigation and we can go from there.

don't worry! its the sound of compressor vibration and it is normal........if the sound is more than turn round the refrigerator and tight the nuts of the compressor stand......................have a nice day:-)

there should be two thermostats in the refrigerator compartment.one for the freezer and one for the refrigerator section.they should both be labeled.

The refrigerator is starting defrost mode once four hours of compressor run time has elapsed. Once the computer enters defrost mode it will remain in defrost mode until the desired evaporator temperature is reached (to melt any ice present). However, in my case, the defrost heater was not coming on due to a melted thermal fuse. (one defrost heater and one thermal fuse in each compartment). I found the thermal fuses to be open so I bypassed them. They are made to "open" at 77 degrees farhenheit. Simply storing the appliance in a garage could melt them. Hope this helps!!

If the voltage is there regardless of activating the door switch or not then the problem is almost certainly in the switch, Here is the link for the user manual for your machine if you need it; http://www.samsung.com/support/productsupport/download/Model_Select.aspx?type=Refrigerator&typecode=21&subtype=Low+Freezer&cmssubtypecode=2104&model=RB2055SL&filetype=UM See if you can figure out how to get access to the switch (unplug it first please)- sorry the pictures aren't good enough for me to see how -it may just pull out of where it is, or you may have to unscrew or unclick a panel or two. If there is damage to the switch, it would usually be obvious due to burn marks or distortion of the plastic, not necessarily on the bit you can see though - there may be a loose wire that is causing the problem, but usually the switch itself has committed suicide. I have not been able to find what the voltage should be in the bulb socket, each country has different arrangements, I am assuming that from the rating on the bulbs 30v is what you should be getting? - do you also have 30v at the freezer lamp socket? does the freezer bulb work in the fridge? (it may seem slightly dimmer - it should be half the wattage) this might indicate if there is a problem (possibly slight distortion from heat in the socket) that is preventing the bulb from connecting properly. Hope this helps, I bet on the switch. If you are struggling to access it, if you could post a couple of photos of the area concerned and the back/top/inside of the fridge then I hope we can help you. the switch may be repairable, but any fridge repair shop should be able to find one that will do the job, else contact samsung (page 14 in the manual) :)

it is probably the door switch. I just pulled the switch from a rb2055 and disassembled the switch. one of the contacts is broken.
If you unplug the fridge and plug it back in, the light should work. push in on the switch button with the door open. If the light does not go out, switch is bad.
pry the switch gently out with screwdriver, unplug it and get a replacement.
If you are watching this I can also probably tell you how to jerry-rig it to run while waiting for replacement swicth.

I found my leak, after checking all lines, connectors, couplers, behind the second to bottom drawer from what appears to be a cooling resevoir. It appears the seams are slightly leaking on both sides. I found water pooling under the bottom drawer and then leaking out the front and followed it back. My Samsung is model RS2556SH

Check the Control Settings: Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual. Inspect the Door Seals: Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps. If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals. Evaporator Coil and Fan Check: The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling. Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly. Reset the Refrigerator: Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in. Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset. Compressor Overheating: You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling. Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.

Check the coolant level and pressure when cooling. You may need to evacuate the system and reload it with the correct anount of gas.

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video