20 Most Recent Samsung RS2630WW Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This link will take you to the Samsung support site. There you can find the instructions for replacing the filter....if the filter is not properly aligned, the water bypasses the filter

Hello,

Here is a complete service and repair manual for your refrigerator. It has everything you will need to know about this fridge. The manual has how to run all the diagnostics to determine which parts may have failled.

Good Luck,

Thanks

Hello,

If you would like a repair manual for your refrigerator, you can get one here. These are helpful to have in case you have other issues with the fridge.

Thanks

go ahead and take and hold in the top two button until the unit blinks and resets the controller. Please don't rate this unitl the problem is solved because i can't come back and answer any more questions then. Also if this fix's please rate this solution please. Thanks for usin FixYa

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls confirm if your fan motor and fan (assembly would look like the image below.

If yes, then it would be available here. The Samsung RS2630WW is also a re-branded Maytag RS2630WW. Should you be in need of an exploded parts diagram to assist you further, pls click here.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy New Year.

it means that the freezer heater is bad, it's located after you remove the racks from the freezer and removing the back panel, it's at the bottom or below the condenser.

It will eventually clog up, and the water volume will become less and less untill it is a tickle, and eventually stops.

It could also cause premture failure of the valve/pump.

hi The thermostat control is usually mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control can be tested in various ways, depending on the problem. To test the thermostat control:

Step 1: If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.

Step 2: If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.

Step 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 4: If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

what is the model number

You have to pull out the sensor from the board and test with tester, both sensor should read the resistance of 10,000 to 20,000 ohms. The reading that you show is very low it means that the thermistor is out of range and need replacement.

I have this problem as well. It looks like they didn't seal this area good enough. The design is really poor and they could have done a better job with a hose drain somewhere else. I'm calling today for other problems as well. I'm planning to get a different refrigerant after reading everybodys problems.

hold down the 2 lower buttons for 5 seconds to unlock the display panel

Since the temps on the display don't show correctly I'd assume something is wrong with that. If the temps are sending info out that the unit is OK and at proper temp (when it's not) then the compressor won't turn on because it thinks the fridge is cold enough. Soooo... I'd suspect that control board. It's item 48 on this diagram http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/SS10-2.gif

Check the Control Settings: Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual. Inspect the Door Seals: Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps. If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals. Evaporator Coil and Fan Check: The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling. Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly. Reset the Refrigerator: Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in. Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset. Compressor Overheating: You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling. Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.

Check the coolant level and pressure when cooling. You may need to evacuate the system and reload it with the correct anount of gas.

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video

could be just the coil on the valve, but most more likely valve getting stuck as it opens. somtimes can take apart and clean, will work for awhile, but if have the cash best just swap it out. will save you hassel down the road.My Aplogies I was under the impression you had already located the valve. I as I have not seen unit I can not give the location, However since it is on the water system, I would trace water tubing from where it connects to unit. It should not be far from inlet connection. Look for tubing going to a valve with wires ontop, ensure after the valve is where you whish water/ice to come out. Once that is located take photo and order new valve, or secure water remove and clean valve. Note have container ready as water will leak once you remove valve.

First I would clean all grim. Second if you do not have refrigerant gauges feel discharge line with hand. Will be a smaller line and coverd with foam. It should be hot to condensor. if not You probabaly lost charge. Also top of compressor should be hot. Should the above not meet specs. You need to find leak, get a pro. to locate repair leak, as you need licenese to go further.

Manny MANY unfortunate customers who bought this **** from Samsung have problem.
Specifically the Freezer cold but fridge side no lower than 55deg problem.

It is a known defect that Samsung has not taken ownership of. I have the same problem with the same model as many.. if you search the net. Iv'e been trying to find a designated website for repairs for this problem. Please post website with solution if anyone finds it. Thanks