20 Most Recent Hobart Handler 140 Mig Welder - Page 6 Questions & Answers

tighten the drive wheel on the wire

When you pull the trigger the entire spool of wire and anything metal that touches it becomes electrically hot. If the tail end of the spool is hanging loose and touches something on or connected to the chassis it will do that, and could have welded the connection so it's solid.

Hobart has a wonderful site. Go to hobartwelders.com click on service/products and then manuals.

Paul

does it have a reset button? if so it has gone bad, if not there is a fuse or something inside. they protect that circuit against shorting at the working end of the gun. happens ALL the time.
Hawk

It doesn't take much to jamb the solinoid , too much presure on the argon will hold this open, turn the gas off, purge the line, release the pressure on the regulator, Now turn the gas on and put approximatley 2-3lbs only on the gauge, turn the flow meter for a reading of 15-20ltr/min, then try again,

this is wierd .if your getting an ok bead i would nt change the machine any.is the gas on?change the setting some go up on the wire settings slow .go up on the amps slow. the machine should sound like bacon frying consistently fast.try that and see how it goes.jojogunn

hi greg:i dont know if i under stand this problem but ill try.theres only a couple of things that can really go wrong so well try those first ok.1st the ground is bad try moving it to a better spot on the piece to be welded.2ndtry to re adjust the wire flouwer in the machine.or on the machine3rd make sure the wires moving the way you want.ok!i tried hope this helps jojogunn

try a single paper hole punch or a leather punch might be easier to use but that will also depend on the size of hole you need
if i is just a case of not being able to sqeeze with your hands try a using a rubb

Basic electricity, + and -, electricity needs a metallic path to follow, on the - side, start by inspecting the connection where the ground cable plugs into the machine. These connectors often wear out and sometimes they lose their connectivity. Wiggle it, feel it, visually inspect it, move on down the cable, are there any splices? I've seen them spliced in numerous places with black tape everywhere, and the owner's standing there scratching his head wondering... Check where the cable attaches the clamp, is it secure and tight? If you're satisfied the ground side is in good condition, then troubleshoot the +side. Now, how the torch side works is there are two electric paths that need to have connectivity. The first is a wire that connects inside the cover of the welder, runs all along the whip to the trigger, where it's connected to a switch (trigger), then follows back down the whip to the machine. If anything happens when you squeeze the trigger then this is all working properly, logical? If nothing happens, check the connections we just discussed. The other path is how the high voltage gets to your work. At the machine, connected to the wire drive is the liner of the whip. Where this is clamped to the drive is the connection, inspect it. then the electricity travels down the liner to the contact tip, which is how the electricity gets into the wire. If they put the electricity into the wire at the machine, the wire would be glowing red hot and melting all through the whip, because the resistance is the same as at the tip of the wire, get it? But the liner itself is heavier metal than the wire, so the resistance is less, so it doesn't heat in the liner, following? So if you pull the shield off the end of the handle, you'll see the contact tip that connects the + liner to the moving wire inside. Inspect it closely. If you still have no current flow after these inspections, there's still hope. Somewhere on the machine there should be two or more fuses. Find them and inspect them, if any are burnt, be sure to replace it with the same size and amp fuse. I'm sure that if you follow these steps, your welder will be working just fine before you know it. Please post back your results.

Look on the front panel, you will see a dial with "-------" dashes underneath the dial. this is for stitch welding, turn this dial off, (anticlockwise). this is a timer for stitch welding and the dial is a timer. for continues welding this must be off. also some units have a spot timer, as above but has "......" dots under the dial, again this must be swithch off.

Some welders control wire speed with the amps control, some control amps with the wire speed control. You might try turning things up until it runs smoothly without pushing back. If you're new at welding, it does take some practice until it feels right.

You can replace the liner by removing the shroud tip, and pulling the spring (liner) from the machine end of the trifgger cable.
Liners are replaceable.

If the wire feed on your Hobart 251 MIG welder won't stop when you turn it on, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the trigger on the MIG gun: Make sure that the trigger on the MIG gun is not stuck or damaged. If the trigger is stuck in the "on" position, it will cause the wire to continuously feed.
2. Check the wire feed motor: The wire feed motor could be faulty or jammed, causing the wire to feed continuously. Try disconnecting the wire feed motor from the welder and see if the wire still feeds. If it does not, then the motor is likely the problem.
3. Check the wire spool: Make sure that the wire spool is installed correctly and is not jammed or tangled. If the wire is not feeding smoothly from the spool, it could cause the wire to feed continuously.
4. Check the wire feed control settings: Ensure that the wire feed control settings are set correctly. If the wire feed speed is set too high, it could cause the wire to feed continuously.

If none of these solutions resolve the issue, it may be best to contact a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance.

This could be a PWM issue with the controller or the pinch rollers for the feed are worn or slipping,

check the brushes on the generator motor

check for correct tension on wire at feed

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Could be lots of things, maybe a problem with the armature or rotor brush gear or output regulator. You really need a service manual...

Lots of torches are fairly universal and you are likely to find it cheaper to replace only the parts needed if you can find them - manufacturers tend to prefer to sell the torch (or gun) complete with the hose, cables and sheath and they are expensive though considerable savings can be made dealing with factors or independent supplier/repairers. Most professional mig welders over here use the euro torch and when a welder doesn't have one and the torch is ready for replacing it is a worthwhile modification, especially if the necessary parts can be sourced secondhand or salvaged. The euro torch just plugs into the machine and once the machine has been modified there are plenty of usable secondhand ones about that can be had for a song. If you aren't conversant with the euro torch, try a search...