20 Most Recent Stanley Staple/Nail Gun Elec - Page 2 Questions & Answers

No, the TRE300 will require a wide crown staple. The staples that will work with the TRE300 are the TRC600 series( TRC604T 1/4" TRC605T 5/16" TRC606T 3/8").

Arrow T-50 heavy-duty staples 1/4-in to 3/8-inch

Home Depot and Lowes have them.

Replace the magazine. The catch must be worn. Make sure you get the right model. https://www.google.com/search?q=Stanley+Brad+Nailer+replacement+magazine ..

try stanley

I just used it 10 minutes 3and it won't do anything

no fuse

check on youtube just like anyone else can

The size & code of staple is usually on the side of the tool , ie 80/ 14 means it takes an 80 series staple & max staple length it can take is 14 mm. Hope this helps

Try contacting Stanley Bostitch to inquire.

Strip it down and clean it out, or at least get an airline in there. It is either rust or something inside breaking down. https://www.google.com/search?q=Stanley+Sharpshooter+electric+staple+gun ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlpoXM7pgEo it shows it not catching but explains assy pretty well

Contact Stanley to inquire about a source for the staples.

In my limited experience the common fault with this type of staple gun is the safety lockout that prevents operation unless the stapler is pushed against a surface - the ones I have seen are flimsy and poorly constructed as if they are a complete afterthought and added by a junior in the drawing office...

You should not need any tools to lift the guard/nose piece. The T5 nose piece cleary has engraved on it "Pull Up To Insert Staples". To remove old staples, use a pencil or similar rod to depress the hammer/striker above the staples while the nose is open.

Contact Stanley to request an assembly diagram.

Don't hold your breath - I tried to get spare parts from Stanley before which resulted in a lengthy lecture from a woman at Stanley about how Stanley products don't need spare parts, how if something breaks or goes wrong while under warranty it is replaced and if it is out of warranty you just throw it away because "you have had your money's worth"... I did try once to buy a staple pusher for an Arrow staple gun. It was theoretically available but clearly priced not to sell as it was only marginally cheaper than buying the whole staple gun...

• Step #1 - The first step would be to release the trigger and then unplug the device. If you notice that your gun is jammed, never try to dislodge it by repetitively pulling the trigger. The internal safeties of some models are capable of preventing the device from firing. Once you've released the trigger, unplug your corded model, and turn off the switch if the gun has one. If you're an owner of an electric model, on the other hand, you can simply remove the battery pack. Similarly, the pneumatic staple guns should be released from the air hose.
• Step #2 - Now would be the time to remove the staple clip. Most models have a small release lever that's located at the bottom of the magazine, which you should pull and see the magazine get unclipped. After that, you can pull on the magazine until it's disconnected from the tool.
• Step #3 - The next step is to take the needle-nose pliers and remove the staples. Some jams will be caused by the failure of staples to get properly ejected from the magazine - they might even be squashed by the other staples in the magazine. In other cases, the staple has left the magazine but only partially, and is stuck in the gun's opening. No matter what your particular situation is, take a pair of pliers and pull out the staple from the place it's stuck at. Do it gently as hasty action might cause damage to the magazine.
• Step #4 - As we said, the discharge area is another place where the staples might get stuck at. For some models, you won't have to use the pliers - a tap on the base of your model might be capable of clearing the jammed staple. Check the user manual to find out if your model can do this.

I don't know but I think the lead would be the easiest part to penetrate but why would you want to? Well formed lead flashing is usually pointed into a mortar joint of the brickwork or a groove cut into masonry with a disc cutter and then the weight of the lead keeps it in place, especially if it is well bedded onto a few beads of a modern adhesive. The constant movement of lead due to temperature changes mean firm fixing isn't a good long term choice - holes elongate and allow moisture ingress and nails work loose. If the lead must be fixed then galvanised clout nails provide the best option, ensuring each row of nails is covered by the next layer of lead and there is enough slope to ensure good water runoff and prevent capillary action being a factor when after a few years of moss growth and frost some of the lead begins to lift a little.

amazon has trs 806