20 Most Recent Delta X5 Dj20 8" Precision Jointer Questions & Answers

Fill feed table with water and measure water level at all corners and adjust until all corners have the same water depth. Then then drain and fill with feed. The fence should be near the feed table.

I had the same problem as you.

You will find these two links useful:

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/motor_connection_diagrams.htm

http://books.google.com/books?id=DDsh3lPokL4C&lpg=PA100&ots=N26cU5VS66&dq=wiring%20standard%20single%20phase%20dual%20voltage%20motor&pg=PA101#v=onepage&q&f=false

The first link shows you the NEMA standards for wiring a single phase dual-voltage motor. In the 'Dual Voltage: (Main Winding Only' table, the numbers are the terminal numbers on the motor. You will see to the left the standard color coding for each terminal number.

The second link shows you how a two mains winding/one start winding motor is wired, using the same terminal number convention. Note that Figure 8-32 is mislabeled; The T2 at the bottom should be labeled T4.

The reason it is a bit confusing for 220V as factory wired by Delta is they switch the T8 (Red) wire with the T5 (Black) wire against what the name plate recommends.

These leads are for the starter winding, which is used to get the shaft spinning in the direction that you want. The nameplate on the motor is for clockwise (CW) rotation, but the motor as mounted in the DJ-20 runs in counter-clockwise rotation (CCW).

So, the starter winding leads are flipped to get the shaft going the other direction (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor for a brief discussion; important takeaway 'phase lag' generates a magnetic difference that gets the shaft spinning).

For the question you asked: For 110V wiring,you need line 1 (probably black from the switch, its not too important) should blue, orange, black and for line 2 (white from the switch) should be red, white, yellow.

If for some reason the motor runs clockwise, just switch the red and black wires.

To add, on my motor name plate, it spells out you need to switch these two wires for CCW direction.

Don't forget to review your switch too. Generally, the black and white wires are both wired through the switch (dual pole), but for 110V, you just want the black wire running through the switch, and the white wires twisted together. In theory, this should be shown on the switch, but I haven't opened mine up yet.

Assuming you have a standard dual-voltage single-phase motor, your wire colors should be:

T1 - Blue
T2 - White
T3 - Orange
T4 - Yellow
T5 - Black
T8 - Red

For 220V wiring, you want:

Line 1 (to Black wire from switch):
Blue
Black

Line 2 (to White wire from switch):
Yellow

Tied together with a wire tie:
Red
Orange
White

This should make it so the shaft spins counter-clockwise. If you need it to spin the other direction, switch the red and black wire from the motor.

Also, don't forget to change the wiring the switch. Most likely you will need to run both the black wire and white wire through the switch.

Assuming you have a standard dual-voltage single-phase motor, your wire colors should be:

T1 - Blue
T2 - White
T3 - Orange
T4 - Yellow
T5 - Black
T8 - Red

For 220V wiring, you want:

Line 1 (to Black wire from switch):
Blue
Black

Line 2 (to White wire from switch):
Yellow

Tied together with a wire tie:
Red
Orange
White

This should make it so the shaft spins counter-clockwise. If you need it to spin the other direction, switch the red and black wire from the motor.

This is common on joiners due to moving of the machine by lifting it around by lifting it by the end of the infeed and outfeed tables. It causes the tables to be moved out of alignment due to the weight of the machine, it must be moved by the base or you always have this problem reoccur. Raise the infeed table so that a 6' to 8' straight edge will clear the cutter blades. At most automotive stores or machinery supply stores you can purchase shim kits (.0001" to .0015") you won't need much, the best because they are a hardened metal or stainless, you can use foil or hard paper in a pinch but it won't last. The outfeed table is only ment to adjust for the cutter height only. Under the out feed table are the wedge slides, loosen them as needed (not to loose) untill you can lift the table enough to slid in the needed shim, start with a .0005" shim. Put same size shim on both sides unless the table is out of level with the infeed table. The shim needs to only go in about an inch, not the entire lenght of the slide, this will raise the end of the table to bring it up. Retighten the wedge slides, pretty tight but not torqued. Check it with the straight edge to see how you did. You probably will have to repeat the process with other thickness shims till you get it right, unless you get lucky the first time. It took me two or three trys. The proof is when you get a straight edge on your wood. Have Fun!

Maybe a thermal problem in the electronic modul and also control the powercable on a leight tensile load.

kango 950 was the hammer drill version. Usually when they stopped hammering they were due for a rebuild. These units have a aluminum piston that rides in a steel tube striker. When the 2 rubber piston rings wear out you will get the described problem. The Kango's use a special tan grease so you cannot just yank it apart and replace the 2 rings with o-rings and grease. I had to rebuild 15 900 and 950's because the previous mechanic used the wrong grease. https://project21designs.com/kango-950-parts The link sells grease & rings.

This is an indication that the hammer needs service. When you take the barrel off you will see the striker. There is a piston inside the striker, when the rubber rings on the piston wear out you have the problem you describe. time to replace the motor brushes clean and regressed, make sure to use the correct grease, Check the backlash on ring and pinions. Don't put too much grease on the piston or it will stick and not strike. Good luck I forgot to ask which version. This is for the uk atlas coco, silver with blue or red handle

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please

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Contact the manufacturer/distributor to inquire.

Unfortunately, you won't find them - Kango was a great hammer, but the company has been gone for many years and there are no parts available. I would find a local repair shop that may have a different brand brush that is the same or bigger dimensions - by using a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on a hard, flat surface - you can sand them down to the proper size. It will get you out of a bind

Ureythn GE00 is madr by Fuchs in Germany - see their website.
Darina is made by Shell - see internet for comparable grease

no information generic answer --notify the manufacturer or owners manual for assistance

If an oil sight glass is in the modelrange of the brand ROK Rottela 40 , but if no sight glass is used in the model then often is to use special Grease lubrication. or only an special volume of oil and most used of them are zinc-free hydraulic based and included in the manual instructions of a maintenance set (service kit)wear parts set.

https://webservice.ttigroup.eu/local/uploaded/catalog/414-917---700S-750S.pdf https://www.milwaukeetool.eu/7-kg-class-drilling-and-breaking-hammer/k-750-s-eu/

3 to 4 ounces for first fill. You actually unscrew the oil gauge with the little wrench that should have come with the tool and add the oil there. After putting the cap back on, hold the tool upright to check the oil level. Check daily and add oil when the level drops to 1/4 when checking as described above.