20 Most Recent American Standard Bath Faucet Ceramix 2000.500 002 Chrome Bath/Shower Fauce... - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I guess so as long as it does not leak. The position for your desired temperature may change.

I assume it is a bathroom faucet. I am providing a link to an installation guide. On the last page of the guide, the exploded diagram shows where the valve is located. Here is the link: http://www.americanstandard.ca/assets/documents/amstdca/install/Install_1816.pdf

Probably it is due to a losen hand shower holder. You need to take it out and fasten it.

What are you looking for? fiber mesh concrete repairs for floors on the drain system that you have to replace a drain in? or are you speaking of 80 pound bag of ready mix to repair hole? Do you need structural strength for the repair? need more info to help out.

It's likely that the problem is not with the drain itself, but rather with your general plumbing. It's possible that the drain isn't vented. There is supposed to be a vent pipe (to let unobstructed outside air into the system to follow along behind the water that's now drained) within 3 feet of your drain. This is so that you don't have to pull air through the drain trap (which is designed to block air passage). Sometimes these get blocked (birds and whatnot) and sometimes they just aren't there. If you have a new drain and it's properly installed, this is your most likely reason.

I think you might need a handle remover tool. It looks like two "L"'s facing each other with a long screw going through the top of the two L's . With a T handle at the top. The two L's go up under the bottom of the faucet handle, and the long screw fits into the screw hole for the faucet handle. A dozen turns or so and the handle pops off the valve stem. Cost about 10-15 dollars at any hardware store. hope this helps.

Be more specific?

Hello, It sounds like a hose may be twisted, or simply may not be secure to countertop/sink may need to be tightened. Careful not to over tighten.

There is a little rubber icon Red for Hot and Blue for the cold on the front of the handle. Remove the rubber insert from the handle. There is a small allen screw that needs tighten to tighten your handle.

Hello Daniel, I've had the same problem a time or two in the past, and although it seems to be a problem you dont want to tackle, it is rather easy and dosen't take much time. First you need to know the brand name of the faucet, then go to your local hardware store and tell them what you are looking for. They should then give you a faucet repair kit that contains maybe rubber "O" rings, washers, and or gaskets, along with a diagram of how it all works. Then when you get back to your faucet, shut off your water and draing the pressure by oppening the valve (should only take a couple of seconds or so), and follow the directions on the package. Now they are small parts, so when you take it apart, just pay close attention to how it breakes down, and putting it back together will be a breeze. Hope this helped some, and best of luck

Usually when the power flush does not work it is because a leak has developed in the pressurized tank. They are known to develop leaks, usually along the molding lines. I am not sure if the tanks are replaceable. Or, it could be something as simple as the flush leaver not engaging the valve assembly on the tank. Take of the tank lid and try to flush and let me know what you see. Good Luck

sounds like one of the stems are leaking thru.

These types faucets have a what is called an anti scald valve build into them, it is required by law, it is either defective or out of adjustment, contact a local hardware store for more detailed info.

http://www.zurn.com/pages/catalog.asp?ProductGroupID=185&OperationID=22#p4179From that page, locate the model and the drop down selector for the installation instructions (#2) will have the blow up diagram of the unit.It appears the only way they handle the sensor is as part of the spout assembly. P6915-1This may be a longshot, but it "may" be possible to clean up the sensor so it is functional again. If you use the same approach as you would do in paint finishing, start with 400 grit to smooth it, drop to 800 then 1500 grit, then rub it down with fine cut polish and then fine cut cleaner, I have used this method to remove scratched in grafitti on clear acrylic plastic with excellent results and no crazing later. The finishing compounds are Maguire's paint finishing, but comparable 3M products or other brands should work. It may seem like a great deal of work, but in the long run when you weigh the number of faucets and what the spout price is versus the time/overhead of the polishing, it may be cost effective if enough units are involved. You know the new ones will get scratched up again.

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X + ( X + 2 ) + ( X + 4 ) = 105
3X + 6 = 105
3X = 105 - 6
3X = 99
X = 99/3
X = 33
So 33 + 35 + 37 = 105

pull it out as far as you need. You will not hurt anything just dont try to wash the car its not that long
I have my spout in the middle and I pull out all I need to clean out both sidees it works just fine

Thanks Richard

Ok more than likly your putty dried out and yes you will have to remove the drain and do it again. First you need to get a small tub of putty, you dont need much. If your drain has a cross in the drain when you look in the bottom you would need to buy what is call a "*********" this is a tool that fits into the drain and then you would turn the ********* counter clock wise. You will more than likey have to use a an other tool to add some extra power to turn the *********.

After you get that out clean all the old puddy out and then screw in back in the same way it came out and test it by filling the tub

Thanks Tom

Does it have a diverter on the spout? If so, replace the spout with the same type. If it is a new installation, did you make up the valve or was it complete and designed for tub & shower? If it's an old valve and it has a separate diverter stem, there is a spacer behind the valve between the valve housing. Replace it.

You will need to take those old parts to a store or place that handles Danco replacement parts. I wish I could direct you to a place that would have what your looking for but parts that old are just not out there. The other possibility is to rebuild what you have those old parts a really tough. I have some old stems and handles that you are welcome to just send me some pictures of what you have and we might get lucky. [email protected]