20 Most Recent Price Pfister Marielle Kitchen Faucet with Matching Spray and Soap ... - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Usually, there is a filter-like mesh at the mouth of the faucet for producing the air bubbles. You may try to turn the mouth part using a suitable plier to see if it can be taken out and you may do something about the mesh.

Shut off the water under the sink, loosen the nut for the faucet careful not to strip it. Try to move the faucet into the desired position, if it works clean the areas of the connections that you can get to and tighten back down carefully so that the connections are not stripped and its not too tight. Make sure it moves as desired, turn the water back on. If it doesn\'t move after the main nut is loosed, then I suggest dismantling the faucet, clean it all with alcohol and try again. If not a new faucet may be in order, it is hard to properly replace the inside portions of a faucet without proper training, a handy type person could though. I suggest if internal faucet repair is attempted that you take the parts with you to the store and compare carefully. Good luck!

What is a pressure fitting? Is this a single handle or dual handle faucet, kitchen or bathroom? which model? Did you remove the aerator and make sure it is clean (standard plumbing procedure after playing with the pipes) If the supplies connected to 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch lines did you use two wrenches to prevent twisting the tubing?

Solution to the most common design...If you can pull the stopper completely out of the drain with no resistance, do this. On the back side of the tailpiece that attaches to the bottom of the bowl, there is a rod coming out of the back side that has a nut holding it in. Unscrew that nut and pull the rod out part of the way. There usually is a loop molded into the plastic on the lower end of the stopper where that rod inserts into. Turn the stopper until that loop is aligned toward the faucet and insert back into the drain but not all the way (keep it held up about 1/4-1/2 inch from completely closed). Reach under the sink and feel for the rod while you are holding the stopper in place and push it back in while you "feel" for the loop. You will know it is inside the loop when you can't pull the stopper out with not resistance. Screw then nut back onto the threads and finger tighten it until it has enough friction to hold itself at any position.Hope it helps...

Check the nozzle is not adjustable in which case move it to the direction you want as manufacturers are not going to make a tap that points any where but down unless it is adjustable.

1. 
2. Thanks to Danny Paccho I purchased a wrench to use in removing the sleeve from Geers Plumbing
3. Then , removed the \'87 Price Pfister faucet housing from the basin by disconnecting the 2 pipes under the basin and removing the top basin nut; inserted the wrench into the top, turning counter-clockwise until it locked (er tightened a bit) and hammered it out ,gently?, to not damage the escutcheon threads , or the basin nut.

Try pb blaster

There should have been a new rubber seal with the purchased replacement. If not you need to contact the supplier and let them know it was not in your package.

You need to replace the spray diverter valve. It is located on the main body, below the spout, in the sleeve at the base of the spout. The main pivotint sleeve of the spigot. The valve is usually in the rear.

A check valve only allows flow in one direction. It will close if the flow tries to go backwards. I have never heard of one on a car. The coolant sensor is just that, and almost every car has one somewhere. Take a look in Chiltons Auto Repair manual to verify the presence or function of a coolant check valves. I would expect the coolant sensor to be easily accessible and not all that expensive- maybe $50 at the most, and screw-in like a spark plug, unless the Stratus' is extra special.

They are wrong. There is no O-Ring at the swivel joint and it is NOT serviceable.

IT NEEDS HIGH PRESSER FORM THE WATER SOURS SUCH AS YOUR WATER PUMP

remove the handle, find the plastic disk with teeth, pull out disk and turn to left for hot, right for cold, set disk back in place, then replace the handle, repeat as necessary.

If this is a new installation, shut off the water supply to the faucet and dismantle to get at part number "974-074" under the handle. It probably has some debris from theinstallation caught up in that part.The exploded diagram with that part number is here:http://s7d1.scene7.com/is/content/Pfister/ex-529-03If you download the document you will need to add ".pdf" to the extension as this was omitted- (it is just a computer thing)

Hi Jose,

Can you describe the 2 lines coming in? Also, could you provide the make and model of your faucet. Do you have pex tubing for your incoming water or other type of line?

Please describe more fully. Thanks,

Handie Andie

remove the cartridge and replace it with a new one. They have cams and pistons inside that out of the blue the cam does not work and then you get only hot or cold water.

Best of luck Rich

Check the screen if it is clogged. That can slow down the water flow.

If you will look .....first thing would be a good idea to turn water cufoffs under the counter to off position....then remove handle,to do this there should be a set screw (hexagonal screw) on the bottom side of handle lever a heagonal wrench will be needed to remove handle...... Now that you have the handle off you can turn the cold side of the cutoff on or the hot side to find out which one is leaking hot or cold .......if indeed it is a washer ( rubber cup) that is leaking.......hope this helps...

You can use the plumbers putty on granite. If you do not want to you can also use some clear silicone. If you use the silicone make sure that you wipe off the exsess before it dries.

hello jh..... here is a link to the price pfister trouble shooting guide with step by step repairs

http://www.pfisterfaucets.com/design_center/do_it_yourself.aspx

Joe