LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

POSSIBLE BAD MOTOR WINDINGS

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

The dE error or fault code indicates that the door is not latching properly. Check the lid or door operation to be sure it's not binding and that the door alignment is correct. Also, check the door/lid hinges to be sure they're not binding. Finally, make sure the door catch is in place and not broken. You may need to replace the door hook/catch or the door lock assembly.

It appears to be a problem with the door? You can go to the following link and try their troubleshooting, hope it helps. http://www.ehow.com/how_7850983_troubleshoot-de-code-lg-washer.html How to Troubleshoot DE Code for an LG Washer eHow

I would check the large pulley on the back for wooblyness(is that a word..lol) if so replace pulley.:)

you have a bearing thats bad on drum or something is stuck between drum

This is not an identical one but is another LG that has the same latch setup. Hope these pics help.

Just unplug it for 5 minutes and replug also check to make sure you have 110 - 130volts at the outlet

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

You mention the pump motor but not the drain filter ;-0(

So just in case I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

The middle compartment is not getting water due to inoperative solenoid valve connected to the pipe leading to the middle compartment. Either the valve is not getting supply from the controller or the valve is burnt. This can be checked by using multimeter connected across the valve while the machine is running.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

The notable comment is 'it is not draining the water'!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello, did anyone remove the large hose that comes off the tub and assure that there was nothing stuck in this hose? Its the hose that connects to the pump. Also sometimes I find that when you remove this hose I have found things like drill bits, pens, pencils, brazier wires. You have to remove the entire hose off the tub in order to check the port hole where the water comes out of the tub and goes towards the pump. Also did you remove the pump and bench test the pump to assure that the impellar in the pump is spining. And I do also realize that you had someone install a new pump but testing the parts before they are installed is something I am a firm believer of this, way less defective parts are installed. If you have any further questions message me back and please remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future. Thanks
Rick

Hi Sean,
Did you get an answer or did you resolve the problem?
I have exactly the same problem Sarel

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
LG's 'PE' refers to '(water) Pressure Error'
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Check to make sure that there are rubber gaskets in the end of the hoses. If not, you can get them at a hardware store. The hoses may need some additional tightening to stop any leakage. Channel locks work well for this.

Best regards, --W/D--

Can be front the drive at the bottom of the washer. I assume this has a high speed spinning and so there is a gear box which can be having less lubrication. So make sure that the motor drive section of the drum shaft assembly is well lubricated so that the noise at high speed reduces.
if you can do a mechanical job , it will be good to remove and reset with good lubrication and maybe replacement of the bearings.

Just select the 'Spin' cycle on the program selector.

Remove the top of the washer by removing the 2 retaining screws (phillips head) from the back of the unit & sliding the washer top back about 2" & pulling up. You will see a white detergent dispenser box with several hoses coming off the back in the left front of the unit (this box contains the detergent drawer). The lid to this box is held on by 8 pressure snap clips. You only need to release the 4 snap clips (3 large, 1 small at the rear) on the right side of the box (nearest the washer drum). Pull up on the right side of the lid while pulling out on the detergent drawer. It should come out normally. Do not reassemble until you read below, then reverse the steps to put the washer back together.

The problem will be the "softener" lid (blue). It will not be sitting down in the drawer assembly & will catch on the lid of the white detergent dispenser box. Simply remove the blue lid to avoid future jambs. It only serves to identify the fabric softener recepticle & it keeps fabric softener from splashing around when water enters the system. You may need to remove the entire detergent drawer periodically to clean (push down on the blue thumb indent inside the drawer to release it from the housing).

Hope this keeps you from drilling through the lid & ruining a $23 part, like I did.

u can go to this web site and they can help u appliancerepairplanet.vstore.ca