Top 20 LG LS-L1210CL Mini Split Air Conditioner - Page 8 Questions & Answers

These have to be pulled out sometimes forcefully. There should be a keeper bolt that needs to be loosened, i usually wire brush the shaft to get any rust off, then spray with wd40 then support fan blade from the underside with one hand and bang The shaft downwards with a hammer. Once it's flush I stick a screwdriver in and hit it out the rest of the way out.

Hi ,
If you keep burning out units and tripping breakers it can only be 5 things. The first is the wire is undersized for the unit. You unit draws about 12 amp so it should be on a 15 amp breaker. Many companies recommend a 20 for start up current requirements . The second is the even if you did use the right size breaker the run of the wire may be to long. To fix this you also must increase the wire size. The third is that you may have a weak spot in the wire . If this happens you will increase the amperage draw an continue to blow fuses. I have seen this many times. If the wire is not laid out and pull nice during installation you sometimes get a kink in the line Most electricians or helpers will just pull on the wire to get it out . This damages the copper and creates a weak spot. Unless you have access to the wire to feel it along the casing to find the point it is getting hot you have no choice then to replace it. The forth thing is the breaker itself which is a cheap part to replace. The fifth is check that the wire going into the breaker a secure. You will have to pull them to check this. It is had to see the little hole during installation and many times the wire looks like it is installed right but it is just sitting on the screw. If you dont feel comfortable working with the electric to trouble shoot you problem get a professional. This is a list of things I would check if I was called in resolve your problem and it should take under an hour. Hope I could help

Maybe you need to invest in a good De-Humidifier. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

check the thermostat is set on cool set temprature at low 18 if still not ok check the compressor is on with the condenser fan if are operating means there is a loss of charge if not operating and the compressor temperature is high replace the capacitor and restart.

Wash out your outside coil and monitor the outside fan. sounds like a lockout due to dirty condenser or intermittent motor operation. Could mean condencer air problem.

It's related to cleaning try to on-off auto cleaning... Works for me

Sorry to sat but the tech has no idea what he is doing. The metering device is in the discharge valve, making that line a low pressure, not high. If the "suction" line is hotthen it is running in heat mode.

If you don't have a users guide on this unit to tell you how, then you need to go online with the Model, serial, and product number found on both indoor and outdoor units, or where it was first purchased, they will walk you through it. I know this is a pain, but without being there to do it my hands are tied.
Sincerely, shastalaker7

Dear Mike, With out a manual or something to go by, I am not sure what the codes mean? Sometimes, they paste them on the inside of the indoor unit. From what I am reading you are without a unit? That is crazy! If the unit was pressurized with nitrogen which we use to ck. for leaks, and then evacuated, do you know if the system was recharged? I would get this company on the phone NOW and find out what is the status of your system? Did they even finish the job? Is the out and indoor unit running when you put it in a call for cooling? Check this if you can Mike. This is almost unheard of. You may even have a compressor out. I have replaced a lot of main boards as they do tend to fail, but to leak ck. and evac., is a whole different ball game. CALL THEM BACK!!!
Sincerely, shastalaker7

I am having the same problem. Have you had any luck, yet?

I myself am a fan of ductless splits. I would recommend either Mitsubishi or Daikin

Try washing out outside coil and the check to see if inside coil is cold from top to bottom after the coil is dry outside and system run for a few mins. If it starts to freeze on just a small portion of inside coil then it may be low on refrigerant or bad tx valve. Do not run unit leak is repaired or metering valve replaced and unit is recharged. Compressor can be damaged with repeated starts. can't say what co means but it is a lock out for a reason .

Electronic filters use static dicharges to filter the air. Unfortunately the make that clicking noise when they discharge. LG calls it a plasma filter. Clean both the regular and the plasma filter to see if that helps.

Solution # 1, Check Condensor Fan Motor Capacitor 4uf or MFD
# 2, Check Motor Windings
# 3, Check Relay OR Defination Contactor
# 4, Check Connection Terminals

hope will help u 2 solve this

GOOD LUCK

I would first check the condensate drain pipe. This can be done by blowing back into the drainpipe from outside. Not to worry it is not dirty or dangerous. Also make sure that your air filters are clean.

650btu/square meter

Impossible to do because the compressor is wired to use 230V. The motor on the compressor won't even run. You will need to have an electrician come in and check your breaker box to see if you can add a 2 pole breaker that will be needed to run the a/c. To add 230 volt, you will need to upgrade the wiring as well as the breaker. I wouldn't recommend you doing this at all! You risk killing yourself and or burning your house down. Hire a proffesional for this job.

Check that you are on the correct mode setting. Open the remote and press the mode button (the one with about four little icons, star, teardrop, triangle and sun) until you get to the mode you require. If cooling required, select the star or crystal, if heating required select the sun (circle with little lines)

The things that you can check yourself are
is the indoor unit level?
Are the filters clean?
The area the water is draining to free of obstruction?
Is the drain actually draining?
----Get a cup of water and pour it over the indoor coil (please make sure the power is off first please) If the water does drain then it is prolly a bigger problem.

Prolly your unit is short of gas and need a refrigeration tech out to check. That it isnt ice-ing up but you would notice the performance drop.

Hope this helps

This sounds like a low voltage short in the unit. Low voltage shorts can be very difficult to troubleshoot. If you are serviceing the unit for a customer, it might be more cost effective to replace it.