20 Most Recent Lutron 1000-Watt Incandescent Dimmer Switch by Electronics, Inc Questions & Answers

You need to get the appropriate box and cover. I have never seen a weatherproof dimmer switch. Also normal dimmer switches do not work very well with motors so I am assuming this "dimmer" is for motor use.

As long as the wattage of your lights is not over 600 watts

Electricians use the 80% rule.
When watt rating is 1000, we say 800 watts maximum. Same for wire ratings, and circuit breaker ratings, switch ratings, etc. 80% rule is the rule for electricians.
The closer you run a device at full load, the warmer it gets and the more quickly the device fails.
The signal that a dimmer is failing is heat.
I suggest replacing 1000watt dimmer with 1500watt dimmer, or reducing load.
All dimmers get warm, but should not be hot. 1500watt dimmers usually have aluminum fins on the face to dissipate heat. So 1500watt dimmers look different than 1000watt dimmers.
If you reduce load, and 1000watt dimmer still gets hot with reduced load, then dimmer has gone bad.

This video from the Lutron site shows the Diva switch but it is the video for the Skylark single pole switch also. It makes no mention of one wire being a larger gauge and does not differentiate which wire connects to line power and which to load. I do not think the wire gauge makes any difference.

You miswired the switch. One of your black wires is misplaced.

The watt rating is absolutely critical to the operation of the device.
The high heat is a direct result of too much amperage flowing through the dimmer.

Reduce your wattage immediately or stop using the dimmer.
You have a fire hazard.

According to the math, you have 20 - 65 Watt bulbs
Change 12 of the bulbs to 40 watt and you will drop to the 1000W max.
12 x 40 = 480W
8 x 65 = 520W
Total = 1000

However I am worried about this circuit.
A typical 15 amp switch (not a dimmer, but the switch) is maxxed-out at 1440 Watts.
So if you had 20 100 watt bulbs for 2000 Watts, it would heat up the 15 amp switch
It seems very odd that an electrician would put 20 lights on one circuit without having a 20 amp switch and 12 gauge wire.
Look at the markings on the switch you replaced and look for amps or watts.
And then look at the color of the wire cable inside your box ... 12 gauge wire is yellow and the lighter-weight 14 gauge wire is white.
If you have a white wire going to all those lights, then you are going to burn down the house unless the total wattage is reduced.
Volts X Amps = Watts.

I think your circuit needs a review to make sure it has the correct wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire2.html

This being said, Lutron makes 1800 Watt dimmers.
You can web search: 1800Watt single pole dimmer
If you have yellow-colored 12 gauge wire, it can carry up to 1920 Watts

If you want more help, add a comment and I will answer

Need to know what is your issue. If you are asking how to hook it up it is a simple task. First you need to confirm if it is a single pole or 3-way switch. Does more than one switch control the light? If not is a single pole switch. I would first turn off the power to the switch you are replacing. Check this by turning on the light and turn off breakers one at a time until the light goes out. Take out old switch and connect new one. tkae one wire off old switch and connect it to one wire on dimmer. Doesn't matter which one. Take the second wire off the switch and connect it to the remaining wire of the dimmer. If you have a ground wire (bare copper wire) connected to the old switch and you have a bare or green wire on the dimmer, connect those together as well. Mount dimmer in box, re-energize circuit and you should be good to go. I am curious why you are using a 1000 watt switch (unless you are controlling more than 600 watts of lights)(9 65 watt bulbs = 585 watts). Let me know how you make out. Hope that helps.

If this is a new dimmer, please check the wiring.
If you are having a problem with wiring, re-post your question with exact model number

If your dimmer is old, the electronics inside dimmer have probably gone bad

When buying a new dimmer, watch for two things
1) is dimmer rated for enough wattage?
2) Is dimmer 2-way or 3-way

The dimmer should have nothing to do with the tripped breaker... Just disconnect the dimmer as a test. The dimmers are normally in series with the hot side of the line and if they short the controlled lights will remain on, if they open, then the lights will not come on at all. If the machine had somehow been plugged into the lights, then that probably blew the dimmer.

The floor cleaner MAY have overloaded the wiring and the breaker MAY not have protected the wiring and there is melted insulation and a short someplace.

If you can't find the smoking gun, get an electrician to evaluate the problem for your own safety.

Remove the two screws holding the cover on. Then the two screws holding the switch into the box. Then there are three wires black and white copper, un insulated. Unscrew the screws that are holding the wire on and replace them in the same place on the new one. If the wires are plugged into the back instead of screws. You will have to cut it and strip it. Or you can stick a tooth pick into a small release hole right beside of the wire. Then pull the wire out.

If the switch is rated at 600 watts and you have six 100 watt lamps connected to the switch, you are at the capacity of the switch and heating would be expected. It's general practice to not place loads on a device that will exceed 80% of the device's ratings, in this case 480 watts.

Some heating in a dimmer switch is not unusual, but if it's hot, it should be replaced with a device with a higher rating or the loads should be divided. You could also lower the wattage of the lamps (to around 75 watt each) unless you would lose too much light.

If the sockets in the fixtures can be lowered closer to the surface of the fixture, you can probably reduce the wattage since more light will exit the fixture. You will also save a few bucks with less wattage. Lastly, check the fixtures themselves and see if they are rated for the wattage of the lamps you have in them.

You're in a difficult position for which I see few options --- none of them ideal. Short of replacing all your switches and wall plates in a matching color of your choice, a cheaper option might be to find a satin spray paint in or near-enough to your color and gently spraying the new dimmer(s) to match. Alternatively, Eaton makes LED dimmers in "Desert Sand" (but whether their Desert Sand looks anything like Lutron's is beyond me).

Which one? My eyes are poor and I cannot see that far.

That is normal. I assume the two white wires are connected together in the box.

This is a no-no unless they are specifically designed to do this.

The directions tell you where to connect it. My eyes are poor and I cannot see what you have!

It sounds like you blew the triac (the electronic switch) in the light. You will need to get a replacement module or a new light. Sometimes lightning will cause this. If it was a tungsten lamp they can have a large current surge when it fails.

Is original a 3-way dimmer (2 or more switches control same light fixture)?

The only device rated for a motor load is the RRD-8ANS and itequires a neutral connect.

To clarify you have a gang of 3 fans you want to control from more than 2 locations (3 or more existing wall switch boxes)?

Halogen work with AC or DC voltage ... 12 volt LED bulbs are DC. Check that transformer delivers DC, or buy 100 watt IP67 LED driver. Keep in mind the lutron DV-600 is rated for incandescent and halogen loads, and may not function as expected when connected to inductive load like transformer or driver.