20 Most Recent Kwikset 907 907-15 Satin Nickel Powerbolt Keypad Electronic Deadbolt - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Get a big scredriver and put it in the square in the middle of the mechanism and turn it till it opens, or you will just have to pry it out with the scredriver.

A short burst of WD-40 or Triflow into the keyway, then insert and remove your key a few time. After that, insert the key and turn back and forth, it should smooth right out.

graphite grease costs about 5 bucks a little tube put on key and insert/turn several times , wipe key off with rag

take the screw out take a drill bit smaller than the set screw and drill divot into shank for set screw to counter sink into should fix your problem

Is sounds like the door settled or shifted and jammed the bolt in the jamb. I would put a pry under the door and gently lift while turning the key. That is only for the up and down but could be that the door needs to be pushed in or pulled out while turning the key. If you want to get real crazy just pop it off the hinges and investigate. If the lock still does not work with it free from the jamb then you will just have to replace the lock.

On the inside side of the door knob you should be able to use a screwdriver to remove the finish covering against the door. This should get you to a point where you can release everything.

It is very difficult thing to do it on your own and for this you need to follow the manual instructions provided in the website locksmith in san francisco or you may contact the locksmith professional as well.

There is the 3rd version of the Kwikset exterior door set. The interior face plate is removed and on each side of the base plate has small slots with a lever on either side that need to be moved to the other end of the slot. The whole interior knob assembly with come off.

There is a tubular "Lazy cam" or tailpiece that passes from the cylinder on the outside operated with a key through the bolt and into the thumb turn on the inside. There is as "E" clip that holds the tubular Cylinder bar or "tailpiece" in place. Fixing it to the back of the keyed cylinder. The center portion of the clip ( that differentiates it from a "c" clip ) passes through a slot in the Cylinder bar to limit its "free rotation" this allows the tailpiece to turn freely enough for the thumb turn to operate the bolt from the inside without binding against the keyed cylinder on the outside, from the outside when you rotate the key far enough in either direction the clip comes to the end of the slot, catches and rotates the bar to operate the bolt. your problem is a broken clip. It is very common, and has been a vulnerability with this design for decades. The cause is usually tension on the bolt during operation with the key ( bolt dragging or rubbing against the strike on the frame) . You can replace the clip and relocate the strike plates on the frame to avoid this again or purchase something a little better than Kwikset.