The stainless steel basin had a pair of big holes in the bottom, suitable for attaching strainer baskets or a garbage disposal. The basket comes with a black rubber gasket that seals underneath the basin, a thick paper washer, and a die-cast metal lock nut to clamp the basket onto the basin. There is also a smaller lock nut that connects the sink tail-piece (the first part of the drain system) to the basket. You should apply a bead of clear silicone to the rim of the opening. Also apply a small bead of silicone to the underside of the edge of the basket. olding the basket by the center, set it in the hole and gave it a slight turn to spread the silicone slightly. Down Under: apply a thin layer of pipe thread compound (a.k.a. pipe dope) to the larger diameter threads. Few plumbers use thread compound here, but I believe in lubricating threads whenever possible. There have been so many times that I needed to remove a basin lock nut, but was unable to because of the slight corrosion that inevitably forms there. Thread compound would prevent this problem. The metal lock nut, the rubber gasket and the paper washer were installed, turning by hand most of the way. The only practical way to tighten these huge lock nuts is to use a pair of 18" jumbo Channel-Lock pliers. To hold the basket from turning, use a pair of screwdrivers placed in an X-formation in the little holes. The lock nut must not be over-tightened, or the rubber gasket can be squeezed out of place, which could cause a leak.
See parts diagram at link... https://www.efaucets.com/images/belleforet/pdf/n31005-n31006.pdf
Turn off water. Use small screwdriver or blade and pry off cap (1) to reveal screw (3). Remove screw and handle. Then turn collar(7) and remove. Then turn cartridge lock ring (8) and remove. Cartridge should pull out.
Someone (yourself?) skilled at plumbing will need to determine whether the leak requires new parts or simply the addition of "teflon" tape to seal the threads of the joint.
God bless your efforts.
is low pressure limited to just one particular faucet...lavatory, kitchen, etc...? is pressure low on both hot and cold? if so, the first thing to check is the aerator..where water come out of spout..if all fixtures are
have low pressure..you could get a water pressure gauge at hm depot..or local hardware store and check incoming house pressure at outside hosebid..you mite have a faulty pressure reducing valve usually located at owner side of city water meter..
They make a tool that slips up under where the vinyl siding overlaps, and it pops it apart with no damage. Then you can get at the nails that hold the siding to the house.
I've seen them at Home Depot for around $5.
Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'.
'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?
Well, we can have a one on one seminar by the internet. I've been a pumpman for 20 years. I can share with you my experience (household pumps, suibmersible pumps, turbine pumps, gear pumps, piston pumps, dewatering pumps, mud pumps, trash pumps, mining pumps, solids handling pump, etc....) Just take your pick. Just send in your e-mail for assistance. God bless.
It is leaking due to a defective mechanical seal. It needs to be replaced. To replace it, is to take the pumpcase off by taking off the bolts that hold it. Then, take the impeller off to take the mechanical seal behind it. Put the replacement in, and reassemble the pump. Just get in touch with us by e-mail to get more assistance.
Move the lever or turn the knob. Check the stop tap under the sink. Make sure the faucet control knob or lever is tight, There is normally a removable cover that hides the screw..
