20 Most Recent Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In. Chainsaw - Page 7 Questions & Answers

In the tank on the free end of the hose. HTH
Lou

I tried the Homelite site (no longer available). You probably did too.

Chain Saw Collectors Corner
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/673d78ec01557aea88256b00005457e6/53fd90eee11e3fe8882572a300167f51?OpenDocument
There is at least one old Homey parts source.
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
I did a search there are many hits on Homelite saws one matches your model... that you spud? HTH
Lou

Your symptoms indicate a lean condition. Check to be sure the muffler and/or spark arrestor are open and unobstructed. If all the parts are installed properly and your mixture screws are between 1.5 and 2 complete turns OUT, the saw may possibly have leaking crankshaft seals. The saw would need a pressure/vaccuum test at a repair shop to verify this.

Modern chainsaws have the ability to run without turning the chain via the chain-brake. To set the brake the uppermost handle is pushed forward (toward the chain) and a firm snap should be heard and felt. To release the brake you pull the same handle back (towards the engine) and get the same "snap".
Concerning oil leakage: Bar/chain lube collects on the inside of the clutch cover and the sawdust mixes with it as you saw. A surprising amount of oil gets absorbed in the sawdust and later seeps back out when the saw is at rest. If the level of oil in the tank noticably drops after sitting overnight you may have a leak...otherwise it's normal.
As for a running chain that wont cut, it is common for chains to be installed backward and the unit still function perfectly (it just won't cut wood). See the proper chain orientation here. In this photo the chain travel is from left to right.

Use page 25 of this downloadable manual as a guide.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/?query=359&types=O
Loosen your tension adjust before attempting to fit the chain on the bar.
HTH
Lou

This is miscatagorize as a chainsaw; not the amplifier that it is. I requested it be moved to the proper catagory. It didn't happen.
Close

Try taking the chain guide off, so you can remove
the chain. This will free the stucked up chain.
Replace the chain guide, and the chain. Hope this will solve your problem.

Clarification Request
Posted by dontbother10 on Sep 05, 2009
Make? Model? What is the problem after you reset the brake? Lou
Posted by Kioat on Aug 19, 2009
What dor you mean unlock the brake? when you push the brake release forward?
Posted by youdoit on Aug 10, 2009
what is your problem? you are supposed to be able to unlock it if you can tell me what is up i may be able to help
Posted by obwhon on Jun 03, 2009
I'm glad you can unlock brake. It's pretty tiring pushing saw back and forth with brake locked.
Posted by obwhon on Jun 02, 2009
Do you mean you can't unlock the brake?

You must help us help you

The fuel ratio is determined by the oil and not the machine. Not all oil is the same. When a manufacturer recommends a fuel ratio, they are trying to direct you to the oil that they offer for sale. Over the years 2 cycle oil has been offered in 16:1, 32:1, 40:1 and 50:1 . Unfortunately for the user it is easy to get confused when selecting oil. It is not difficult if you just think about it. There are two major differences in 2-cycle engines. There are water cooled and there are air cooled engines and the oils are entirely different. Water cooled (outboard) engines run at much lower temperatures and at much lower RPM's. It is necessary for outboard oils to burn during the combustion cycle. In this situation the oil turns to smoke so that the oil is not deposited in or on the water. Air cooled engines run at a much higher temperature and must not be used with outboard oils. In an air cooled engine the oil should leave the muffler in liquid form. If the oil turns to smoke it is not able to lubricate the engine and a very undesirable carbon deposit is left behind leading to engine failure or stuck piston rings.

Since a top quality mixing oil will cost $12 or more for a six pack (that comes out to well over $100 a gallon of oil) there is little wonder that so many companies want a piece of that pie. Cheap oils no bargain even if it is free. If the oil says it is for outboards, lawn mowers, string trimmers, and chain saws, they are telling you that they know nothing about 2 cycle engines and only want to take your money.

You should choose an oil whose brand is that of an engine manufacturer. Obviously these companies are not in the oil business but they want to make sure that they do not cause warranty claims from an inferior oil. The life of you engine is dependent on choosing a good grade of oil. You should pick an oil that you trust and that you can purchase on a consistent basis. Unlike gasoline, oil does not deteriorate with age. It is better to buy enough to last you a year or two than it is to change brands every time you run out.

There aren't any radios installed on chainsaws. If this is a muffler we need make, model, and perhaps serial number.

PISTON COULD BE SEIZED DUE TO LOW OR NO OIL MIXTURE,ALSO IT COULD HAVE FUEL IN THE CHAMBER,FIRST REMOVE SPARK PLUG--NOW TRY TO PULL IT--HINT,STICK A SMALL SCREWDRIVER IN THE HOLE AND SEE IF THE PISTON RAISES AND LOWERS,,IF IT WILL RAISE/LOWER BY MANUALLY TURNING THE CRANKSHAFT,THEN THE PROBLEM IS IN YOUR INNER PULL ROPE ASSY.(THERE ARE DOG EARS INSIDE THAT SPIN OUT AND GRAB THE FLYWHEEL WHEN IT TURNS)

What is the Make?

Try here:

Homelite/Ryobi.com
http://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php

Lou

Remove the starter cover, rewind or wind a new cord onto the spool. Turn the spool about 2 turns against the spring, thread the pull cord through the starter cover and reinstall the pull handle.
Lou

First the chain should be tightened properly before starting. When you pick up on the chain midway of the bar it should pull away from the bar about 1/4". The proper mix of oil & gas in the fuel tank & Oil for the chain in the oiler tankk is needed, If so, locate the on/off switch & turn it to "on". Pull the choke lever out. Depress the throttle trigger & engage the latch for the trigger. With the saw held firmly in place, pull the starter rope until the engine hits. Then move the choke to half & pull till it cranks. move the choke lever to the run position.

Make sure you have spark to the plug, make sure the plug is clean and dry,squirt some starting fluid into the plug hole and put the plug back in and try it. If it fires and then quits you probably have a fuel problem

Some saws are different than others but you want the chain to be free when you pull the trigger. Most have to be pulled back towards the operator to release the brake. This is here to reduce the amount of injuries due to a kick back. It can be pretty bad if one of these saws hit you when the chain is spinning. But yeah if you pull it back that should release it. Hope this helps you out. If you feel that the solution has helped then please accept and rate. Thanks cj2176.