20 Most Recent Ingersoll Rand Type 30 Fully Packaged Ir Electric Stationary Air Compressor No. 2475N7.5FP 7.5HP. 80 Gallon Vertical Two Stage Questions & Answers

Hi,
Here is a link to Ingersoll-Rand (compressed air division) where you can find a local distributor. I think a call to a parts tech might provide the original motor sheave outside diameter and belt size (I'm suspecting "A" or "B" size).

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/contact/air/index.aspx

With that info, here is a link to a good industrial source for your new motor sheave (McMaster-Carr):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belt-sheaves/=3fwz7b

Their prices aren't so bad.
You may also have a local industrial sales in your area.
I hope this helps you... Nice compressor!

check the breaker it needs to be motor rated for the surge on start up this will also be higher when motor is connected to the pump due to the extra torque placed on motor plus when cold oil losses viscocity and thickens therefore placing even more torque on motor

Hi ,Crazy horse. information perfect . with a14.5 inch pully on the compressor and amotor running at 3450 rpm you can get with a 5 inch pully----1189.6 revs per min ---- with a 4 1/2 pully ---1071..6 revs per min so you hve to decide whether you want the max or the min from that compressor... If it was for me I would use the 5in . and set psi. with the cut in ---cut out switch ,this will be a good unit ,,if you need any more help don`t hesitate to call and thanks for the opportunityto help it is great when some one gives you good info .you did well

I would try Grainger (www.grainger.com)

They sell IR compressors and always have a large assortment of parts

typically on a ss5L5 the head gasket has gone bad. Disconnect tubing and remove the 6 bolts on the head . gently tap the head and valve plate. Mark these pieces before dis assembly for assembly. If you pick up both pieces as one , turn them over you will probably see a piece of the gasket missing at the smallest point between the 2 cylinders this gasket needs to be replaced. You can purchase a head and valve plate gasket or make the one you need if handy with tools. I've done it both ways.

you probably have other issues along with the check valve. If this unit has a VP in the model # you may have a bad valve in either head. You will need to remove the heads to check. Another problem may be the unloader. It is located behind the front frame cover and is attached to the crankshaft. I have seen these come apart. Now if this does not have the VP in the model # you may have the following problem(s). The aux. valve located next to the pressure switch may be bad causing pressure to be put on the LP head valve located just behind the air filter threads. If this valve is closed no air can be pulled into the LP head /cylinder for compression thus the unit makes no air. The aux valve controls this valve in the LP head. I have also seen these valves stuck shut. Also make sure the air filter is not plugged. Hope this helps.

I would be glad to try to help but I don't know which tube you are calling the intake tube since there are several different tubes. Are you referring to the inner cooler tube, or the tube from the air inlet to the front cover. what size is it, 1/2", 3/8's, 1/4? Perhaps you might be talking about the tube from the HP cylinder to the receiver tank. If we can identify it we can find a part #.

Is this a rotary screw unit? Was it low unloaded sump pressure? If so the most probable cause is the minimum pressure check valve located under the aluminum cap on the seperater tank (oil tank). The check valve piston binds in the housing due to rust, dirt,etc. If you are going to attempt the repair your self I would recommend purchasing rebuild kit before disassembly.
If this problem is with a 2475 unit I would look at the pressure switch. If you are saying the unit starts/stops/starts etc and it is equiped with a low oil level switch the oil level is low. fill it to the oil fill plug threads.

Does the compressor have enough CFM to run the printing machine. Will the compressor build up pressure and shut off if you close the discharge valve at the tank. Your printing machine may simply be using to much air. If the above items are not the case you may have a faulty check valve in the receiver tank or valves going bad in the LP or HP heads. The valves may also simply have carbon build up or dirt of some type not allowing the valves to seat properly. I would start at the check valve. One way to check the check valve is to see if you have air blowing from the bleed off line at the pressure switch all the time. Another way to check is loosen the fitting at the High Pressure head an see if you have air blowing continously. Caution do not remove the fitting at the head completely. If the check valve is bad you will have high pressure air blowing until the receiver tank is drained.

Does this unit have an intellysis controller. If so it also has a pressure transducer. The pressure transducer may need calibration. Also if this happen during freezing weather you may have condensate that froze in the sensor line. This would not allow the transducer or pressure switch to sense the correct line pressure which could cause oil to be blown out the air filter. If it does it during non freezing temps I would focus my attention on the minimum pressure check valve.

Need more info to really help. Are you sure it has a duel voltage coil? Did you change the coil wiring to low voltage? Did you change the overloads?

pull the heads and check the intake exhaust valves most likely bad broken valve in the high pressure side

Maybe your are in low voltage thats why amphere is high.

That would depend on the type of pressure control switch it had on it, but all of the ones I've ever seen have it near the high pressure adjuster under the pressure switch cover- VERY HIGH VOLTAGES- RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH- UNDER PRESSURE SWITCH COVER WITH UNIT STILL CONNECTED TO POWER-

On the common switch used (A condore mdr 5) the differential is adjusted by DEPRESSING the nob & turning it.

On MDR 4 the adjuster is directly behind the high pressure adjuster. it is a flat bladed screw attached to a spring-screw in to increase cut in pressure.

You can also get pressure switches with a higher cut in pressure.
In Australia from a company called Ross Brown Sales in N.S.W

Hope this helps
Regards Andrew

two possible problems, first and most likely is a control issue, either control regulator, inlet control valve, blow down or unloader valve, or loose or obstructed control air lines. If it is lifting the safety valve on the sump tank wet side it indicates possibly plugged separator filter or defective minimum pressure valve, most of these require a good working knowledge of the machine to repair and should not be attempted by untrained personnel.