20 Most Recent LG LRFD25850 Stainless Steel French Door Refrigerator Questions & Answers

It could be beeping due to your freezer door not closing all the way. Make sure there is no ice build up behind the door. You may have to defrost it.

Google above part. There are too many options to list.

First check to see if the water fill tube is clogged with ice. If it is thaw the ice out of it and you should be fine, but usually if the tube supplying the ice maker is frozen over the valve isn't working properly but thisis only sometimes. The tube is where the water fills the icemaker inside the freezer section. Hope this helps.

Hello, welcome to FixYa. I just read your post and based on the info provided it certainly sounds like a control board has been damaged. The PCB (main board) at the back is part #6871JB1280P for about $70 at vendors on-line like "repairclinic.com". There is not much you can do short of what you've tried (unplugging) unfortunately. Let me know if I can help in any other manner. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Keep it plugged in it might start working after it reset itself.

yep, total defrost is the 1st thing to do. if you want to speed the process, see the following page how to do is good luck

This will be a defrost problem. There are 3 components in the defrost circuit.

1. Defrost control board (ADC)
2. The heat element
3. A bi-metal

If any one of these components fails, the freezer will not defrost. This can be put into a manual defrost to help determine the problem. Put this into a defrost, by doing the following, in order:

1. Unplug the unit from the wall outlet for at least 13 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off (leave it off)
3. Plug the power cord back in

In just a few seconds, you should hear a click and the element should come on. Shortly you will hear some popping and hissing. If you never hear this noise, either the heater or bi-metal will be open.

Jeff,
I can make it simple without any part numbers. If it is a pin hole as you say then dry up the surface, empty the water tank, allow it to dry up and put a drop of Super glue or quickfix or some such adhesive. let it dry for a few hours and then use it as new.

Once you get to the tank , there are 2 hoses . Cut the hoses to remove the tank . Do not push the water dispensor afterwards , or water will run into the fridge . The icemaker water is not connected to the tank , so removel (or non removal ) does not matter . If you had given the model number , I could have given you the part number for the tank (resevoir).

usualy there isnt a height adjustment most common problem is worn door cam due to over weighting door the door cam is made from hard plastic and is known to wear out even break

ck container to rule out simple leak ck for cracks in container make sure lines are secure and free of breaks also part can be ordered. first ck all basics lines and conections in compartment

LG ****...but try unplug the power supply for 1 minute or so to reset the control board...

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

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