20 Most Recent LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator French Door - Page 9 Questions & Answers

FAN NOT WORKING

get an electrician to check if your fridge plug has got power. you might have a faulty wall plug or a faulty fridge plug.

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using fixya! Mike p.s. please don't forget to rate this free solution.

Your water feed to the unit is controled by a needle valve and could be filling up with calcium, to fix this you can take the unit apart and soak valve in a solution that will break down the calcium. Often it is easer to replace the unit or the valve, most things you use to decalcify the valve can also damage it at the same time.

Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

If you have ice build up behind the panel inside the freezer, you most likely have a bad defrost heater. You can remove the back inside panel of the freezer. Take a hair dryer and defrost the ice. When the ice is gone you can inspect the heaters. If they are not fixed it will continue to happen. When the coils ice over, first the freezer will get warmer. The first complaint is that the ice maker stops working. Then the ice cream starts melting (Due to the sugar in ice cream, it has to be around 0 degrees to stay froze solid). Then the fresh food section starts warming due to the fans not being able to force air into the fresh food section.
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change your T/stat.......or your defrost timer

check fan on freezer area and make sure it is not ice build up and hitting the fan and if it is this then you need a heating element on the evap.....

SOUNDS LIKE THE CIRCULATING FAN IS WEARING OUT. THIS PROBLEM IS VERY HARD TO DIAGNOSE BECAUSE THE FAN SPINS BUT NOT FAST ENOUGH TO CIRCULATE CHILLED AIR THRU THE FREEZER AND REFRIGERATOR. THE MINIMUM COST FOR PARTS AND LABOR IS AROUND $300.00. THE FAN IS LOCATED BEHIND THE BACK PANEL OF THE FREEZER COMPARTMENT.

The easiest way to fix that is to pull the freezer door all the way out and give it a good little tug, you will see the plastic covers on the side rails there will be a little gap about one inch on each side make sure those gaps are even. Your door should be aligned

The Freezer Fan also provides air for the refrigerator

heck you door alignment to be sure when the door closes it is hitting th lite switch and turning the lights off. sometimes it is necessary to put shims on the door hinges to raise the door to cause it to hit the switch properly.

Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Some units you can pull out, then pull up and it will come off. Other units you have to take the shelf above it off

Sometimes light is used as a heater function in the appliance inorder to keep temperatures stable.
But it is also possible that your door switch is not functioning correctly.If you suffer from bad performance this can be the reason.

Carefully check under rubber seal to see if it has screws. If it doesn't then panel should just pop off. The rest should be straight forward. Remove and replace blower.

your LG need new capacitor as well bit of a service ... but mainly its Capacitor...

er-ff is freezer fan error not running,check for ice build up around fan,a know issue.if ice build up a new main board will be needed.or just a bad fan..

Perhaps there is not enough water coming into the tray on each cycle? Are the ice-cubes very thin? If so timer needs to be reset. LG use a 3-switch DIP on a control panel near the main power board. By changing these switches to various combinations of on/off you can change the timing - longer means more water each time (but too much water means overflow into the blocks already made).

There are service manuals that explain what each setting does - but because its near the high-voltage power board, I'd suggest you get a repairman unless you are a good DIY'er