20 Most Recent Pride New Mobility Legend 4 Wheel Scooter - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Possible blown bulb. If yours is like mine then you can remove the lens in front to access the bulb. If the unit is still under warranty do not touch it. Contact the place you purchased it and have them replace it. There may be a reason that the bulb blew out that a simple bulb cannot correct.

This battery box attaches to the base platform with some very aggressive Velcro. The bottom of the box has a battery connector that mates up to the platform when the box is put on the scooter. The easiest method is to pull straight up on the battery box using the handle of the box. You will feel the Velcro release. Use 2 hands and wiggle it slightly. Some earlier versions had a battery box that actually locked into the base. This battery box required pulling out the flat release levers on both vertical sides of the box to release the battery box. I am going from memory on this. If you need another technique, try removing the seat first and stand straight over the battery box. Bending your knees and grabbing with both hands pull the battery box handle straight up. It should release. Before reinstalling vacuum and clean the platform and bottom of the box so that dirt is not keeping the surfaces from sliding easily. Hope this helps.

Hi, can you please explain by the term takes 30 minutes to power up ? Do you mean once you turn it on , it takes 30 minutes before it lights up ? Regards Rob www.gewizrepairs.co.uk

A8 and A9 are the parts you need to get this fixed. CRM3400 Legend 4 Wheel Replacement Parts . This is not a very difficult repair for an experienced mechanic but may be tricky for a novice. The tiller needs to be held in place while you work on it. I usually tie a rope to it and throw it over a garage roof rafter to tie it off. A second set of hands works also. Getting the covers off is straightforward. The screws are well hidden so check out the blow up diagram first. The cable end with the stop on it is attached to the slot on the mech lock and the cable release lever is run out to the shroud cover. The adjusting lever assembly is pushed into the tiller housing first from the outside and then the cable is attached with a spring clip ( if memory serves me right). You might get lucky and the only thing you may need to do is reattach the cable with the clip and lubricate the mech lock with WD40.

what the charger is showing that ?, it has a digital display ? please supply more information

Here's a link for the owners manual for the 300 model. Click on it and it will open as a PDF document that you can print. http://www.rascalscooters.com/manuals/300_manual.pdf

The ammeter back in the trunk should be registering when you plug the scooter in. If it isn't, this doesn't mean that it isn't charging as the meter itself may be bad. Put it on charge for a few hours and see if the "fuel guage" on the top of the tiller comes up to full. If it does, than your charger is okay and you just need to ignore the ammeter not working until it doesn't charge at all anymore, then the charger is bad. Note too, that later on when the batteries get weak and you can only go a little ways, that it still means your charger is okay, batteries not. Even bad batteries well show a full charge, but they won't take you far at all. If the batteries don't show a full charge after a few hours, then you need to replace the onboard charger.

Good luck

Rest switch

hi,

there can be a couple of ways to do this ,

Upgrade the batteries to a higher amps say 40amps to 55amps etc,

but if the controller is say 70amps, more powerful batteries will not make it go any faster so you will need to also look at the motor controller.

first what is the rating for the installed motor controller ? can that be upgraded to more amps say from 70amps to 110amps etc however you must take care here that the motor can handle the extra amps otherwise you will burn it out,

Regards
gewiz

hi, can you explain in more detail what information you require ?The XL8 is one of the best 8mph mobility scooters out there, sadly it been replaced by the Pride colt brand.. Regards

if I understanding this correctly , you cannot use the scooter why it is being charged, there is a inhibit pin that stops the scooter from being used, All scooters are designed this way.Regards

AXLE NEEDS GREASE!!!! DO NOT RUN IT !!! WITHOUT IT,THE PLACE U BOUGHT SHOULD HAVE BUT WERE PROBABLY BEIN LAZY

A fully charged battery should be over 12 volts. You may need to change your batteries.

hi,

Can you clarifly what happens you plug in the charger in ?

Are you sure the fuses on the battery leads are okay ? the is one for each battery like a glass container ? check they have not blown, check the connections to the battery , are they tight ?

Regards
gewizrepairs.co.uk

Hi, you need to trace the wiring on the scooter for a loose connection. That is probably the problem.

The manufacturer has a serial number
tool locator. Use this link and a flash player tool will run: http://www.pridemobility.com/resourcecenter/serialnumbers.asp
The serial numbers are usually under the rear cover of the scooter and that requires taking off the seat first. Hope this helps.

It sounds like you have tracked down your problems to the front to rear wiring harnesses since you have replaced some of the pins. In my experience, it is not cost effective to do this since there are usually hidden problems in the harness due to flexing, other corroded contacts or contacts pushed in the connector not making contact. The front to rear harness costs about $60 retail and is easily replaced.
You might also consider replacing the two intermediate harnesses from the tiller to all the components in the front console and the rear controller harness. I have had the rear controller harness melt and make poor contact at the controller board connector on the Curtis and Penny and Giles controllers. I have also had the tiller harness get pinched and flexed so much that the internal wiring made intermittent contact.
Continuity checks are only good if you go from the farthest point at the controller board pin outs to the console board pin outs. Sometimes, you can have a good continuity check on an unplugged, isolated component only to have it fail when you plug it in and the contacts are poor. Usually the intermediate molex contacts or wiring can be bad. These two additional harnesses can run an additional $200 retail. Labor should be about 2 hours if you do it yourself and if you have a hot glue gun to secure the front to rear harness under the shroud (if not use cable ties). You might still need to replace the front console circuit board and throttle potentiometer but your description indicates otherwise. Also make sure the that the front connector to the console circuit board (from the intermediate front to rear harness has not come unplugged due to gravity. You might still need to contact your professional for additional diagnosis and parts, then do the work yourself. The parts are OEM parts only, but they might be available online at a discount. Hope this helps.

The SN on this model is well hidden. First you need to remove the seat of the scooter. Then , remove the back cover of the batteries. If I remember correctly, you have to remove both batteries and the SN is in that area. On some of these models the SN is on the lower end of the seat post. It is on a tag that I think reads Pride Mobility Products in silver and black. Hope this helps

No. The motor turns cogs 'directly' in the transaxle which would have been filled with either grease or oil at the factory and should never need touching unless it breaks.

Hi. Sounds like you have accidently moved the high/low switch. Sometimes called the indoor/outdoor switch. Some switchs are marked with a turtle and a hare.
Check your manual for the position of the switch.
Good luck. Neil.

mcdevito75 here, I would figure 20 lbs.