Top 20 Hayward H Series Electronic Ignition 250,000 Btu Pool Heater H250ped2 Questions & Answers

Try MFG website, or email their customer service, or try manualslib.com

Code Fault Diagnosis Step Remedy None Open FC3 and/or F1 Fuses 1. Check for faulty Gas Valve wiring. Inspect Gas Valve wiring. Ensure insulation on wiring is not worn. If OK, proceed to step 2. 2. Verify that Gas Valve is not defective. Mesure for resistance across Gas Valve terminals and between each terminal and ground. If short exists, replace Gas Valve. If OK, proceed to step 3. 3. Check for faulty Control Module wiring. Inspect Control Module wiring. Ensure insulation on wiring is not worn. If OK proceed to step 4. 4. Control Module is defective. Replace Control Module. Ignition Failure 1. Ensure gas supply shutoff valves are open. Ensure that main gas shutoff installed adjacent to heater is open. Ensure that knob on gas valve inside unit is in ''on'' position. If OK, proceed to step 2. 2. Check for low gas supply pressure Ensure inlet gas supply pressure is between the minimum and maximum values indicated on rating plate. If OK, proceed to step 3. 3. Check for faulty flame sense wiring or connection. Inspect flame sense wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely fastened to flame sense and to control module. If OK, proceed to step 4. 4. Check for faulty gas valve wiring or connection Inspect gas valve wiring. Ensure wire harness terminals are securely fastened to spade terminals on gas valve. If OK, proceed to step 5. 5. Check for gas valve failure or gas valve relay failure. 1. Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for igintion. If 24VAC is present and gas valve does not open, gas valve is defective. Replace gas valve. 2. If 24VAC is not present, gas valve relay on control module is defective. Replace control module. 6. Check for blockages in gas orifices and burners Inspect gas orifices for blockages which could prevent gas flow. Remove and inspect burners for blockage

check on haywards web site they should have dealers listed

There is a drain plug on the inlet/outlet header.

Those particular heaters can be tricky because they came a few different ways, including a millivolt to electronic spark conversion that was done on site.Your best bet is to get an old pool tech out there to see if they can get it fired up. The variables involved are far too extensive to troubleshoot in this format. Good luck with it.

ROL would signify an open roll out safety switch. This is a small ceramic part with two wires plugged onto it and one screw holding it to the front of the burner compartment. This is there so that if the flame reaches the front compartment it opens and shuts down the heater to prevent burining up all the wiring and destroying the heater. This can be caused by a high wind while the heater is running, but can also be caused by a plugged up heat exchanger. It is an inexpensive part and easily replaced. Just be careful and always keep your face and body away from the front of the heater when firing it after doing repairs.

Your unit likely needs the control bezel assembly replaced. It includes the control pad and the circuit board it attaches to. We currenly have one in stock for $229.60 + shipping (and tax if shipped to a Michigan address). If you would like to order it please contoact us thru www.arrowpools.net.

John

ErrorAO means BlowerVacuum Switch Open. If the blower prover switch does notclose after the blower starts the control will stop the ignition trial go intolockout. The blower will continue to run. Automatic reset is immediate afterthe switch closes. So you need to check this.

Hi,
If it is doing nothing then you need to investigate this with an electrical meter and find out where the power is not going...
The first place I would check is to see if you are getting power to the transformer...and then if 24v power is coming out of the transformer...

If this is happening the check the control module.. that is the next thing and is probably the bad part...

heatman101

My Pool heater does that if it has low water pressure.The pressure switch will shut it down if there is low pressure going through it. Good Luck

That brief delay is likely the window allowed to heat the thermocouple and it is probably defective. After that delay expires, it shuts down for safety to avoid unlit gas from escaping. If the TC is bad, the controller doesn't know if the gas flame ignited or not.

Open up the control panel access door on the front. (the display). Remove the 2 screws at the top and tilt the assembly out. There should be a tab on the bottom that helps keep the assembly stable. Check all the connections on both boards for fit and broken wires. If all is ok, I would shut the supply power off, then back on and see if the data transfer works. If not, bad boards.

You are probally having a problem with your pressure switch in the heater. This is located in the cabnet on the left side about half wau up just above the burner tray. It will have a ferrel nut on the back you can unscrew to get it off the copper tube it is attached to. Do this with the breaker off and once it is removed from the tube start the pump for a second and see if you have a freeflo of water from tube. If you do you need to ck the pre sw by replaceing the unit on the tube and removing one of the wires to it. If this solves the problem you probally need to replace the switch. If you don't get water flo through the tube you will need to follow the tube to where it hooks to the manifold and remove it there and clear the hole it goes into and the tube it self. This is a rare occurence on these heaters as they have plastic headers. My bet is you will find the pressure switch has gone bad. Good lucl I hope this has helped.

is your filter clean?

This is farley easy to change out and pretty inexpensive at the same time. You will find this on the top left side of the plumbing manifold. It slides into the manifold and wires run back to the thermostat on the front panel. Chech your wires and the connections at the temp control before you replace the part. Good luck.

Sounds like it could be the flame sensor.

You may need to put a hartford loop in your plumbing between your chlorinator and the heater. The chloriene will back up in the line bad when the pump is off and corrode the exchanger. A hartford loop is simpley a loop than runs low then high above the top of the heater so it can trap gasses in the line and won't let them get back in the line. If all else fails you can use a floater. Be sure to check your PH also. Good luck.

Sounds like this is a flame sensor issue. It is not detecting the flame.

All electric motors run hot and pool pumps are no different. But how hot is too hot for a pool pump? The first test is simply whether you can touch the motor or not. Under normal operating conditions, the motor end of the pump is hot enough that you can barely touch it - but not searing hot.Best to you.https://www.google.com/search?q=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&newwindow=1&sxsrf=AB5stBhpriuNhnfXLYYTg7tuS-LWwW262g%3A1690815381903&source=hp&ei=lcvHZKH_NOHi9AOquJjADw&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZMfZpVdAAi94QXZiwKfN3nArsWv-Gm1z&ved=0ahUKEwjhnd6RmrmAAxVhMX0KHSocBvgQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IkpYdHJlbWVwb3dlclVTIDJIUCBJbi1Hcm91bmQgU3dpbW1pbmcgUG9vbCBQdW1wIFZhcmlhYmxlIFNwZWVkIHJ1bm5pbmcgdGVtcEgAUABYAHAAeACQAQCYAQCgAQCqAQC4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQE&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_sMvHZMuPJPez0PEP3M2LgAY_44

Testing the water pressure of your Hayward gas heater is a relatively simple process. Follow these steps to check if your water pressure is working properly:

1. Turn off the Gas Heater: Before performing any tests, make sure the gas heater is turned off to avoid any potential accidents or injuries.
2. Check the Pressure Gauge: Locate the pressure gauge on your Hayward gas heater. It is usually located on the front panel of the unit or near the plumbing connections.
3. Observe the Pressure Reading: The pressure gauge will display the current water pressure. It is typically measured in pounds per square inch (psi). The optimal water pressure for most pool heaters is usually between 15 psi to 25 psi, but it's essential to check your heater's manual for the specific recommended pressure range.
4. Turn on the Pool Pump: Ensure that the pool pump is running, as it is responsible for circulating the water through the heater. The water pressure will be at its most accurate when the pool pump is operating normally.
5. Monitor the Pressure: While the pool pump is running, observe the pressure gauge to see if the water pressure falls within the recommended range. If the pressure is below the minimum recommended level, it may indicate a circulation issue or a problem with the pool pump.
6. Check for Leaks: While testing the water pressure, inspect the heater and the surrounding plumbing connections for any signs of leaks. Leaks can lead to reduced water pressure and affect the heater's performance.