20 Most Recent Jandy Aqualink Rs4 One Touch Control System Control System - Page 5 Questions & Answers

go to system set up then go to program highlight what you want to program then add start and stop time if to run all the time start 2:00am and stop 1:59 am it will shut off for 1 minute then restart

The water temp sensor needs to be replaced with a new 10k temp sensor. To find your sensor, follow the plumbing from the top of your filter pump, until you see a hose clamp, under the hose clamp is your temp sensor

sounds like two different problems for the pump sounds like 2 speed relay is going bad and you need to clean or replace your salt sensor

go into the setup you can change the backlight options there

Go to menu , program the pick pool and input your desired schedule.
Make sure the day and time is set correctly!

Thats just telling you what software is in your jandy system and what revision that software is.

By frying do you mean popping the fuse on the back of the board?

http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/~/media/Zodiac/Global/.../6919.ashx

If you are asking if you should have the pool or spa button on, then the answer would be pool. Pool mode creates suction from be pool and should be set up to return to both the pool and spa. This setup allows all the water to be filtered and or heated at the same time.

thats just the model and revision number of your jandy aqualink software.

Your air temperature sensor may be broken. Does the display show the correct current air temperature? You can go outside and put the system in service mode. That will shut the pump off. Then you can disconnect the air sensor and see if the pump acts right after putting it back into auto mode.

some models the heater will overide the remote. put heater temp to highest setting 104 degrees, then remote should override the heater

This could be the front board of the control system, but would require voltage testing

Is there a different button that turns your cleaner on? Depending on the version you have, the aux that you have the blower attached to is the default aux for the booster pump. The auxiliaries may need to be cleared and relabeled, and the relays rewired to get the booster pump on its default relay, and the blower on one of the others.

That tells which version you have, and is not significant to the operation of the system. It should only display for a few seconds after the controller is powered up. It's hard to say exactly where the problem may be, the controller itself or something in the power center. Some pool techs will carry a portable unit to plug in outside to help see what may be happening. Good luck with it.

replace spa side switch

go to the power center and disconet the spa side switch turn off the breakers first check after that

The heater may be wired just fine. The aqualink uses its water temp sensor to call for heat based on what you've set the thermostat to on the aqualink. However, most heaters have built in thermostats that over-ride the aqualink. Those thermostats come factory defaulted not to go over 94. Check your heaters manual on how to adjust the thermostat on the heater. Your heater should have its thermostats set to 104 and the aqualink will control the actual temp of the water by calling for heat based on what you've set the thermostat on the aqualink for. Hope this helps.

go to menu/display light/on off leave at 2 min delay if this doesnot fix let me know

I have the same problem. The LED seems to glow only about 10 percent of maximum. Is there a solution to this? I've tried turning off and on through menu, but brightness is almost non existent.