20 Most Recent Ryobi 30 Cubic Centimeter Curved Shaft Gas Trimmer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

try carb cleaner.if that does not help adjust the idel screw up or faster,but not all the way.Sometimes the screw will back out due to vibration.

There are two torx head screws in the muffler. If you take these out the muffler comes apart.The first thing to come off is the outer cover of the muffler. After that there are 3 more screws (the part description only says pan head) that hold the outlet tube on, under this outlet tube is the spark arrestor screen. You can clean the screen by heating it up until the carbon on it turns a red/orange color, then blow the screen clean. I would suggest a propane torch from Wal-Mart and a pair of pliers to do this. Then re assemble the muffler. I have included a link to the Ryobi Parts breakdown. http://hcpi.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF You may have to put your RY30210 model number in the search box. The diagram you are looking for is the Engine Assembly. I hope this gets you back to running again. :)

Sounds like you need to get a carb kit

Hi enriquemon,
To remove the drive shaft, loosen the clamp that is just above the protective shield and remove the set screw attaching the drive shaft tube to the trimmer housing. Remove the drive shaft and if you want clean and inspect for damage. You are installing a new one so it is not an issue. Coat the shaft with a high quality, multipurpose lithium grease. Make sure the ends of the shaft are properly located in the drive adapters when assembling. Depending on the amount of time it is used, the drive shaft should be cleaned and greased every year or two. I hope this is helpful to you. Any questions welcome. All the best and good luck.

The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for 1/2" or so.

To get the original parts:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-725r-41bd725a734-handheld-trimmer-parts-c-7931_15633_18592.html

check to make sure the plug has good fire if not change the plug

I had this same problem last year here where I work and I found that the choke lever was not dis-engaging properly and the plastice on the lever was kinda rounded out. so check to make sure the choke is working properly on the carb ( opening and closing ). also check to make sure that there is good fuel flow to the carb and that there is no blockage at the filter. spray some carb cleaner into the carb to make sure that there is no blockage in the jet. all in all though -- this is a carb issue and it could also need some minor adjustment ( throttle + idle- H/L ).

c...

The Ryobi curved shaft trimmer is a consumer grade trimmer. Both the 26cc & the 30cc engines from Ryobi (Homelite) are pretty light duty. They have 1 piston ring and use an anodized aluminum piston and cylinder. A commercial grade engine would have 2 or 3 piston rings and the cylinder and piston would be chrome plated for longer life. Look for the emissions label on your trimmer. The emissions code of C would indicate a 50 hour emissions longevity (consumer grade). A code of B would indicate 125 hour emissions longevity (estate grade). A code of A would indicate 300 hour emissions longevity (commercial grade).
I hope this helps.

Here is the parts list with the schematic diagrams for the RY34420. If you are in need of help with a specific problem, please descibe the problem in detail and I'll try to walk you through the repair.

http://dl.owneriq.net/d/d9c4fbaf-0fd1-47e4-b6c1-4a9c11559bd5.pdf

LINE REPLACEMENT (Fig. 8) (For Reel EasyTM Head) Use 2.4mm monofilament string. Use original manufacturer's replacement string for best performance. n Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug wire. n Cut one piece of string approximately 7.6m in length. n Rotate knob on string head until line on knob aligns with arrows on top of string head. n Insert one end of string into eyelet located on the side of the string head and push until string comes out through eyelet on the other side. Continue to push string through the string head until the middle section of the string is inside the string head and string outside the string head is evenly divided on each side. n Rotate the knob counterclockwise on the string head to wind the string. Wind the string until approximately 20cm remains protruding from the string head. INSTALLING STRING IN PRO CUT II STRING HEAD Use monofilament string between 2.4 mm and 2.7 mm diameter. Use original manufacturer's replacement string for best performance. n Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug wire. n Gather two of the pre-cut lengths of trimmer line provided or cut two pieces of trimmer line, in 28 cm lengths. n Insert the strings into the slots located on the sides of the string head. String should be pushed in until approximately 2 cm protrudes from the holes on the top of the string head. n Remove old string by pulling it from the holes located on the top of the string head. http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/pdfs/89/p4763889.pdf

50:1 don't use outboard motor mix

Did you take plastic of the needle screws. Pull them on with a pair of vise grips. Mine had slots in them. While counting the number of turns, gently turn them in till they bottom out. Then turn them all the way out. Label which hole they came from Spray out the passage ways with carb cleaner. Put screws back in, all the way in, then screw them back out the number of turns it took to bottom them out.

Take off the back motor shroud, be careful, it also holds on the gas tank. Also, when removing it, it will open up the crankcase, so do not get any dirt in there, Take the restrictor out of the muffler. It is under the cover on the exhaust port. Remove the two screws and it is underneath. Put cover back on with the two screws. Re-install the motor shroud.

Then thing should run.

You might want to replace the gas lines and fuel filter as well.

Typically:
1. Press primer button 6-7 times until you see fuel flowing
2. Engage the choke lever to full choke /--/ pull cord 3-5 times until engine begins to start
3. Move choke lever to 1/2 choke and pull cord 2-3 times until engine starts - - allow to warm up (about 30 seconds) and move choke lever to no choke / / /
4. If engine does not start, repeat 1-3
If engine does not start, repost with more detail. Thanks! :)

Insufficient information. Describe better for better results.

Typical routing:

This will generally get you close: 1.5 turns for both the "H' and the "L" needle screws - adjust from there.

Note: Screw all the way in until they stop (do not over tighten), back off by counting the turns. Most trimmers will run at about 1.5 turns and adjusting from there. Consult your manual for more specifics.