Masterbuilt 20070206 Smoker - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I just bought a new Masterbuilt Smoker by default two weeks ago I borrowed a friend’s to smoke about 30lb. of Salmon to then can. Ran the smoker every day for three day. ON my last batch the heating element would not work. Talk about Frustrated! The Smoker was only 2 yrs. old.

Knowing I borrowed I felt I had to replace. So online to Cabelas and I ordered my buddy a new smoker and had it shipped. I then found this website... GOT TO LOVE the internet. I saw many other people had the same problem. Found an Answer...

The Problem was one of the connector to the heating element was poor quality and if you don't clean your smoker on a regular basis. The heat and moister caused the small copper connector to corrode and the wire to come loose. I took a wood chisel and cut off all the rivets on the back. I was then able to pull the back off with no damage and access the small box in the lower back. I found the connector. Went to the hardware store and bought a replacement for .75 cents. A pair of wire crimpers and the problem was fixed. I also bought ½ inch Sheet metal screws to secure the back it was good as new. So I returned the smoker to my buddy and kept the new one. When it arrived I saw Masterbuilt has since fixed the problem and provided an access panel to the element and connectors.

Mike in Alaska

[email protected]

Does that smoker have a "high limit" snap switch inside? If it does, that's the likely cause - try replacing it with a correctly-rated one.

Unfortunately no. What temperatures are you trying to reach. Most smoking of meat is done at 225-250. What is the maximum you can obtain? Keeping the unit out of the wind and cold, better insulation, stopping any leaks, is about the only way to do it.

Wow, someone's not happy!!

I found the online manual for the 20070206 smoker and it has the replacement parts list and shows the element has part # 990050051.

Go to this website and see if you can order it or call them.
http://www.masterbuilt.com/contact.html

The parts list is on page 3 at this link.
http://www.masterbuilt.com/pdf/manuals/Smokehouse%20models%2020070206,%2020070106.pdf

ck the power / if 230 / ck both legs .. turn power off and then back on . . may have hi limit / most do and may be restable .. .. if one time replace it . . ope this helps mm

I get mine from Grillparts.com....I believe they are here in Floriyda.You might search around in the Yellow Pages for somebody close to you

notify manufacturer or online search

there is no repair the sensors or probes are readily available $10.00 for 2 of them

I have purchased a new control board for my Masterbuilt 2007121. https://www.yaoawe.com/products/9907160014-digital-temperature-controlle-for-masterbuilt-electric-smokers

If you have a Gen I Masterbuilt Digital Electric Smoker.To sync the remote, proceed as follows: 1.Unplug your unit, wait about 10 seconds, plug the unit back in and then start the syncing process over. 2. Turn controller and remote "on" 3. Press and hold "SET TEMP" on controller for 3 seconds (Hold it until you hear a beep) 4. On the Remote press "MEAT PROBE, LIGHT, MEAT PROBE, LIGHT" ( All buttons must be pressed within 5 seconds of each other) A short beep will occur after each button press.) TIP: if that does not work unplug smoker for 10 seconds to allow control panel to reset and try again.

1 means the digital thermometer is too cold. Try hitting it with a hair dryer before starting the smoker. Not sure about 4.

https://fireplacehubs.com/masterbuilt-smoker-error-codes/ This should help you. It has a number to call for more help.

I am not clear how an electric smoker works but I am guessing there are two basic problems - one of design and the other of material specification. I have dismantled many electric heaters of various sorts, lots made redundant because they were old-fashioned and expensive to run. Some of them were in excellent condition even though they were perhaps up to half a century old. The remarkable thing about the design of these was how substantially over engineered they were. This was partly due to the fact when they were built a significant number of homes and offices were using direct current mains electricity, consequently the switches needed powerful springs to ensure a rapid connection and disconnection and the large contact area had a wiping action with a classic knife-switch design. Poor contacts from arcing generating additional heat was designed out. The switches were almost exclusively ceramic bodied. The internal wiring was another point of interest. Where wire was used at all it was so heavy as to be practically rigid, probably an alloy of some description (possibly with nickel). These were preformed into a shape where thermal expansion would be no problem and insulated with a woven asbestos sleeving; today's equivalent would be a woven ceramic. These "wires" would be terminated with an overly large and substantial screw and flat washer. A significant number of heaters had no internal wiring and instead used flat metal strips, again insulated with heatproof sleeving. Later heaters did use multistrand wiring but it wasn't copper - again it was probably an alloy and again covered with a woven insulation and even the terminals were rated for high temperature use. Wire suitable for greater temperatures than 200 C and quite difficult to find but probably the best modification for your smoker would be a little over engineering and specifying wire capable of withstanding 450 C. Check out the link to some wire wisdom... https://www.anixter.com/en_uk/resources/literature/wire-wisdom/high-temperature-wire.html

possible bad heating element

gas pressure too low check pressure adjust to correct if ok check for blocked burner tube

Unplug and let sit, maybe it has a circuit breaker inside which resets itself. If that does not work I would suspect the thermostat.

Try this site for a manual for your BBQ grill. If they do not have it, check with google.

Fire it up and put the meat on the grill