20 Most Recent Masterbuilt 20070206 Smoker Questions & Answers

I just bought a new Masterbuilt Smoker by default two weeks ago I borrowed a friend’s to smoke about 30lb. of Salmon to then can. Ran the smoker every day for three day. ON my last batch the heating element would not work. Talk about Frustrated! The Smoker was only 2 yrs. old.

Knowing I borrowed I felt I had to replace. So online to Cabelas and I ordered my buddy a new smoker and had it shipped. I then found this website... GOT TO LOVE the internet. I saw many other people had the same problem. Found an Answer...

The Problem was one of the connector to the heating element was poor quality and if you don't clean your smoker on a regular basis. The heat and moister caused the small copper connector to corrode and the wire to come loose. I took a wood chisel and cut off all the rivets on the back. I was then able to pull the back off with no damage and access the small box in the lower back. I found the connector. Went to the hardware store and bought a replacement for .75 cents. A pair of wire crimpers and the problem was fixed. I also bought ½ inch Sheet metal screws to secure the back it was good as new. So I returned the smoker to my buddy and kept the new one. When it arrived I saw Masterbuilt has since fixed the problem and provided an access panel to the element and connectors.

Mike in Alaska

[email protected]

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 30, 2016

Does that smoker have a "high limit" snap switch inside? If it does, that's the likely cause - try replacing it with a correctly-rated one.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Nov 05, 2013

Unfortunately no. What temperatures are you trying to reach. Most smoking of meat is done at 225-250. What is the maximum you can obtain? Keeping the unit out of the wind and cold, better insulation, stopping any leaks, is about the only way to do it.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Nov 10, 2010

Wow, someone's not happy!!

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Aug 20, 2010

I found the online manual for the 20070206 smoker and it has the replacement parts list and shows the element has part # 990050051.

Go to this website and see if you can order it or call them.

The parts list is on page 3 at this link.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on May 18, 2010

ck the power / if 230 / ck both legs .. turn power off and then back on . . may have hi limit / most do and may be restable .. .. if one time replace it . . ope this helps mm

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 07, 2009

I get mine from Grillparts.com....I believe they are here in Floriyda.You might search around in the Yellow Pages for somebody close to you

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Mar 27, 2009

Contact Mastercraft directly to inquire.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019

Try this site for a manual for your BBQ grill. If they do not have it, check with google.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019

Fixya is unable to suggest sources for Masterbuilt parts.

Masterbuilt... | Answered on Jul 28, 2019

I am not clear how an electric smoker works but I am guessing there are two basic problems - one of design and the other of material specification.
I have dismantled many electric heaters of various sorts, lots made redundant because they were old-fashioned and expensive to run. Some of them were in excellent condition even though they were perhaps up to half a century old.

The remarkable thing about the design of these was how substantially over engineered they were. This was partly due to the fact when they were built a significant number of homes and offices were using direct current mains electricity, consequently the switches needed powerful springs to ensure a rapid connection and disconnection and the large contact area had a wiping action with a classic knife-switch design. Poor contacts from arcing generating additional heat was designed out. The switches were almost exclusively ceramic bodied.

The internal wiring was another point of interest. Where wire was used at all it was so heavy as to be practically rigid, probably an alloy of some description (possibly with nickel).
These were preformed into a shape where thermal expansion would be no problem and insulated with a woven asbestos sleeving; today's equivalent would be a woven ceramic. These "wires" would be terminated with an overly large and substantial screw and flat washer.

A significant number of heaters had no internal wiring and instead used flat metal strips, again insulated with heatproof sleeving.

Later heaters did use multistrand wiring but it wasn't copper - again it was probably an alloy and again covered with a woven insulation and even the terminals were rated for high temperature use.
Wire suitable for greater temperatures than 200 C and quite difficult to find but probably the best modification for your smoker would be a little over engineering and specifying wire capable of withstanding 450 C.
Check out the link to some wire wisdom...


Masterbuilt... | Answered on Jun 16, 2019

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