20 Most Recent Carrier 38CKC060 Air Conditioner - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If this is a heat pump it sounds like the reversing valve is stuck in the heat mode, replacing it requires opening the sealed system, which needs to be done by a licensed ac repairman.

hi how are you...you say your outdoor unit is not working...is thermostst set in heat or cool when this is happening....if the compressor is running,go outside put your hand on the big copper line,if it is hot,your in heat mode,if it is cold your in cool mode..is it heatpump or ac only...if ac only ,you have a sequencer stuck ,or contactor closed keeping heat on...please chek items first...michael doctor airr appl.repair 843-384-8474...if need help call,ill help talk you diagnosis of problem...

check for fuse on control board. Should be a 3 amp blade fuse. Also make sure the door switch is pushed in.

Should be roughly around 1200 cfm total if going by the standard 400 cfm per ton

could be incorrect wire size to the actual unit that can't handle the amp draw of the heater.

You didn't get a Carrier tech. Carrier technicians only work on commercial equipment. Residential applicaitions, installation and service of Carrier residential units are done by dealers. They are not carrier owned but get buy the product at discount get training and get to show our logo. You can't fix the boards, they have to be replaced. It sounds like you have a Gen II VVT system. You can get the part via Totaline stores or a distributor. You will need to know how to readdress the other controllers to operate correctly. Use WWW.Carrier.com.

Is the joint where the crack is copper to copper or copper to aluminum? With this being a Carrier, it could be either. If copper to copper, it can be re-welded (repaired) with no problem. If copper to aluminum, there is an epoxy on the market that will repair it if it's not to big. If it's to large of a leak, you will indeed have to replace it. A word of advice. I you do replace it, don't let the contractor sale you another aluminum coil unit.
I'm not sure where you are located so this price may be more or less. Although it should be in the ball park.
It looks like what you have is a 5 ton unit by the model number but I'm not sure if it's a heat pump or not. Plus I'm not sure how old it is so I'll give you a price based on these facts.
Your unit

1. being a 5 ton unit
2. an older unit with R22 Freon
3. Being straight air (Not a Heat Pump)

If your contractor will replace the unit with one with R22. (No more made after 01/01/2010.) I would charge around $2800. If the contractor can't find or will not look for a R22 replacement they will have to replace not only the outside unit but also the inside coil. For this I would charge around $3800. To replace the complete system with a 13 SEER ( R410A unit) I would charge around $5200. The difference in prices I gave is if you wanted a YORK or a Goodman. A Goodman will be around $1000 less than a YORK. The most expensive brand on the market is a TRANE. I'm a YORK dealer and to be honest with you, a Goodman is just as good and does the same thing as any of the other brands. They also offer from a 13 SEER to a 16 SEER. YORK offers up to an 18 SEER as well as TRANE. If your unit is not more than 8 years old, I would only replace the outside unit myself but I assure you that the salesman will advise you to replace the whole unit. This is what they get paid for and that's were the company stands to make the largest profit. There are companies in my area that will tell customers that coils can't be repaired. That once they leak, they have to be replaced or at least the coil.
Just be smart and do not let the service company sale you something you do not need.Good luck. Sorry to be so lengthy. I'm just trying to give you as much information as I can and I hope it helps you make a wise decision, not a costly one.

no,especially with the age of the unit,they would rebuttle you that it was a vibration on the unit and you should have done something sooner and to either to have contacted them with-in the warranty period.for repairs.

Check in your paper work for the unit,there should be a chart explaining fault codes.

You Must REPIPE it With NEW HOSE Mine did same thing, I used Compressed AIR to Unclog it

You can try running a small pipe snake or even a coathanger through it. If you can't reach it, and if you can seal all the open connections except the outlet, you can try using compressed air to clear it. Be careful though, A/C contractors are notorious for not cementing all the connections on PVC pipe. If it's blocked and one of the connections is loose it'll blow apart and make a mess.

manufacturers put their name on lots of other peoples stats. Honeywell has a very good help line and an online service. Need to know whose thermostat white- rogers, Or honeywell Or Model number

Your duct system has dampers that separate the four zones. Even though all four sensors are working and call for a/c, you may not be getting voltage to the damper motors, which open when there is a call for a/c, and close when the call is satisfied. In certain parts of your duct system, you will find small orange or gray boxes with wires going into them. Those are the motors for the dampers. When there is a call for a/c in all four zones, check to see if you have power going to those boxes. If power is present, the motors are bad or the damper itself is stuck. If power is not present, check the master zone control.

20' case will match the out side dimension of the furnace

Check float switch. E5 is loss of 24 volt power on some models.Russ

Check the Voltage with the unit running.

Check your breakers

HEY THERE, DID YOU TRY POER CYCLING THE UNIT? TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER THEN BACK ON
SETH

I reset the circuit breaker to the panel and everything is good now.

Sounds just like a seized bearing on the fan motor. They can be repaired but it's usually less to purchase a new motor. Now all you have to do is figure out how to get the motor out. To get you started, you need to partially disassemble the top portion of the condenser cabinet. This will give you access to the fan motor assembly. Which model do you have? That information will be on the nameplate which is on the side where the electrical enters the cabinet. That reminds me, always pull disconnect and trip breaker before starting.