Carrier 38CKC036 Air Conditioner - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

your furnace uses 115 power & there is a transformer in this unit that powers the low voltage controls. i would say that when they replaced the board they missed some issues with the low voltage control wires. which is likely to be what cause the board to go bad. theses low voltage wires are the only thing that can tell the outside unit to come on. the lights dimming tells me that you have a bad capacitor or need a hard start kit. the lights normally only dim if the compressor doesnt start.

Air mover is too close to the vents - the ductwork (re-routed 180 and back) must be modified or lined inside with a sound absorbing material.

check for Freon level if its low compressor will not run

sounds like a motor issue check for loose bolts on top of the unit i would get the unit cleaned and have the technician look at it

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Hi Mate,Just wondering if you have refrigerant currently in the system? It looks like it is to be charged with puron refrigerant which is the trade mark name for R410A.

The temperature outside and pressure chart are needed to accurately determine the proper charge. (temperature pressure charts to calculate heat gain) However the low side of the unit should read around 70 and the high around 210. This is a really broad generalization and I do not recommend you charge your unit just on this info. It will get you close if you are using R-22 and the unit is properly cleaned. A dirty evaporator coil will cause a severe low pressure reading on the low pressure side.

There's no polarity, it's AC voltage.

Yes you can if the 410 a/h is new just put a r22 txv on it I have personally done hundreds of them mainly carrier they even sell the conversion txv.
I'm a 15 year hvac sub contractor and I know my sh##

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the answer to your problem is most likely the motor start capacitor. A AC motor can run in both directions. The start capacitor is used to cause the current to lag behined the voltage which determines the direction the motor will turn. Its posible the start and run capacitors are in one can. so changing one will change the other. However look for a wiring diagram. Do not asume that both capacitors are wired in properly. They may be fighting one another causeing premature failure.

The electronics of these systems work with a switching power supply.Stress on these power supplies causes destruction of high voltage capacitors or switching I.C.s. To solve the problem search for malfunctioning components and replace them or use a brand new control board.

Which fan are you reffering to? one inside or one outside? do you have a multimeter with a capcitor tester? symbol '( . something like that. let me know i'll walk you through some test

First digit after 38CKC_0_ is the seer rating this is a 10 Seer unit.the next two digits are BTU's of cooling to the thousands. For every 12,000 BTU's you have 1 ton of air conditioning.38CKCO_36_ would be a 3 ton unit.Serial number first two digits are the week the second two are the year24 would be 24th week. 02 would be 2002

Check your coils in the back of the unit and make sure they are clean,also make sure the compressor is running.

If the humming is your compressor running (feel the large copper line going into the unit, it should feel cold aftter a few minutes of run time) then the fan motor or the capacitor or both need to be replaced, check for voltage to the fan motor when the unit is "humming" if it has voltage and will not start replace the fan motor and the capacitor. hope this helps.

Often after a repair has been made, the air conditioner will take hours to readjust back to normal. When the system has been off for to long, not only does the heat in the house rise, but so does the humidity, which has to be pulled out of the air first before it really starts dropping in temp. You could have a low charge on refrigerant, dirty filters, etc. More than once I have ran into things that were just coincidence after a repair that showed up. Since you just replaced the capacitor, I would make sure the fan motor is turning in the right direction and there is nice air flow coming out of the condenser, some times if one wire is wrong, it can cause it to spin backwards, which will work, but just barely. The air needs to be pulled through the coils, not pushed. Hope this helps!

Hello, usually that is a sign of liquid refrigerant entering the compressor. Before condemimg the compressor I would have them check the refrigersnt charge to make sure the unit is not overcharged and check that the airflow is good. If those are checked out to be good the unfortunatly a new compressor will be needed.

Hello, there could be a few reasons for this. A condensate safety switch may be tripped due to a clogged condensate line, this will involve cleaning the line with a wet/dry vac. No power to the thermostat due to a burned out transformer or fuse Dead batteries if the thermostat uses batteries

Hello, you can pump the refrigerant down into the condenser if service valves are equipped with the unit. Hook up gauges to the unit and close the liquid line service valve, then push in the contactor in with a insulated screwdiver or pencil and watch the low side gauge untill in drops to zero, once it drops to zero close the suction line service valve and the refrigerant will be stored in the condenser. Just make sure the unit has service valves, if it does not then the whole charge must be recovered.