20 Most Recent Carrier 38CKC036 Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor. Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor . Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.

having the unit running like that not only prevents the compressor from dissipating the heat but also raises your amperage uses more electricity and does not cool your home adequately. replacing the coils on that unit is out of the question. that unit has probably been under too much stress and will not last much longer. check your local codes and state regulations you can also check with the environmental protection agency that regulates refrigerants due to the compressor working under too much stress it can cause the pressure to rise to the point of releasing the refrigerant thus contaminating the environment if the company that install this unit did not follow the code they could be liable not only for a wrong installation, punitive damages but also contaminating the environment. stand your ground and ask for what is fair. either way you will need a new unit.
Best of Luck.
Raypena from Texas.

Hello, freon should be charged by a hvac technician with a epa card. But the way you charge it in is hook up the manifold gauges to the unit tjen take the yellow and hook it up to your refrigerant bottle. If this is a R-22 unit then you add vapor refrigerant to the low side of the system untill your superheat is correct if it is a fixed orifice system, however if it is a txv system then you chek the subooling. If it is a 410a system then the same principle applies however you flip the cylinder upside down and add liquid refrigerant through the low side a little at a time here is a link that shows you proper charging methods http://www.air-conditioning-and-refrigeration-guide.com/charging-air-conditioning-systems.html.

2 1/2 tons Simple guide line 12,000 BTU = Approx 1 ton

Hello, try jumping the r and g terminals on the tstat subbase, if this turns on the blower motor then you have a bad tstat. If not then chevk for 24 volts between r and c, if you have 24 volts there then the relay on the control board is bad and the board must be replaced. Does the blower run when set to heat?

either a bad capacitor or bad fan motor.

Hi,
It is just coincidental that the fan motor died now...
Replace the condenser fan motor and you will be good again...

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your airconditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...

AirConditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

Hello, make sure the blower wheel is clean and that it is moving freely, if it feels loose on the motor shaft then you will need to tighten the set screws. If the the blower wheel is hard to turn then the bearings on the motor are going bad and will need to be replaced. I hope some of these tips help.

sounds like a bad capacitor usually screwed to the blower housing (round or oval shiny can)
this gives the motor a kick start)
depending on the motor there is usally two brown wires that go to it
check the mfd rating on it probably 5mfd and replace it with a matching one
its a very inexpensive part

Hello, the first thing is check if you are getting voltage at the contactor coil contacts on the outside unit, you should be getting 240 volts, If not most likely a breaker is tripped. Next check if you are getting 24volts at the contactor coil, if not either there is a problem with the thermostat or the low volatge wiring. if you are getting voltage but the contactor does not energize the coil on the conatctor is bad and must be replaced.

Many possible reasons. I assume the compressor is running and hopefully is pumping freon as it is supposed too. If it is just noisey and no other problems with unit it could be worn out compressor mounts. if the compressor sounds rattley then it could be getting ready to seize due to internal wear. May be a good time to let a technician take a look. Hope this helps.

Dear friend! It's not lubrication problem. All motors pre-lubricated.Weaken capacitor. Replace capacitor immediately. Don't practice to spin with screw driver. It's not safety.Thanks.

Make sure that the capacitor that was changed is of the same type and rating. If this is low then the fan can flutter off. So make sure the rating of the capacitor is correct , if not replace with a correct type. Make sure that the motor is not jammed, as it might heat and stop. Also the possibility of the motor failing should be checked if the motor is heating to stop- possible fault of the motor.

With this cold weather, -- it is not likely tripping off because it is too hot!

Are you familiar with the history of this unit?-- Like has it tripped in the past during HOT weather?
This might be a clue, that the circuit is really loaded close to its limit--

This leads to the next possibility: That the breaker is getting weak (They do after many hard starting loads!
Now-- If you can get the system to start and run for just a few seconds-- can you put a Clamp around Amp meter on the wires?-- and read the full load current?
How close is this to the rating of the circuit breaker?
Is the breaker, and the wire size marginal?

Another thing to look for, is loose lug screws at the main fuses, and the Main contactors, and the motor leads--- for loose wires result in overheating, which raises the current, and leads to tripping, too.

How long ago was the condenser cleaned-- this leads to high amp draw too.

But the first thing would be to learn more about the age of the Main Breaker, and what the 'normal' run current is for that system.

Mack B

Sounds like a bad heat exchanger. The flame could be coming out, and throwing the Flame roll out limit switch. Could just be limit switches.

obtain the code it flashes on the board next time it goes down and let me know what you got. There are too many variables to guess Id rather hit it right on the head. I will be waitiing for your response. The board is usually located in the blower section of the furnace.

yes it is

1. Alignment of fixing wrong. 2. Filter/Evaporator coil block 3. Drain pan dust blocked. Drain line blocked outside.

No. R22 and R410 are not compatible. R410 units operate at much higher pressures than a comparable R22 unit. These refrigerants also use different types of oil which are not compatible. If you need to replace half you might as well replace the whole unit because I was told that as of January 1 of this year you can no longer buy an entire R22 unit unless it is one a dealer still has in stock. They are phasing out R22.