General Electric WBVH6240HWW Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

i would try to clean the trap out at the bottom, there is a panel on the bottom take that off and clean out the trap, it looks like a turn dial, something like that has happend to me, it cant hurt to try

Pump sensor stuck...
Check for clog by removing back and take drain hose off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uud3xDus4TQ&feature=relatedif your washer sounds like this in the spin cycle you have a bad spider gear and need to replace the washer.and with all the other stuff you discribe it sounds like it's the gear.

No. There is only one drain trap. If you're still having issues with it draining, with the washer unplugged spin the impeller on the drain pump by hand. if it turns with a hard bounce its okay, and you may have to feel the hose that sits on the bottom of the washer that goes to the drainpump for any kind of debres in there.

Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front loadwashers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101

Bearings on way out allowing drum to rub against door seal. Could be badly fitted door seal, but unlikely.

Dump in a gallon of white vinegar, fill with water, highest setting, after it goes through that setting, turn it off and let it set in the washer for about 30 minutes (use hot water).

Then put it on another wash cycle and then go to the rinse and spin. This should remove the order, and you should leave the door open when not in use.

Good Luck

the timer motor on the timer that advances the timer is defective,replace the entire timer as a motor for the timer will be just as much as a timer if its available separatelyanyway

most likely the spider gear is broke,you can check the shocks but usually it's the spider gear.detergent eats at the gear in the back,if you look inside the drum you'll see like a peace sign in it,that's the spider gear,H.E. detergent is double the strenth and people use to much and it eats at the metal that the gear is made out of.it would be cheaper to just replace the washer.copy and paste this video,basicly the same thing with a different brand name.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTKuOqWDhkI

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
A few questions first-
Have you noticed a particular cycle taking longer? Is the hot water supply, if it has a separate one, as hot as it used to be- the washer then having to spend more time heating? Do the drum speeds seem correct to you, particularly spinning?
Having asked those questions I have just realized that it could be taking longer than normal to drain water at the end of each cycle so I am going to suggest you follow my general guidance notes on checking the drain motor lint tray/filter and the motor's operation. It's something which should be carried out on a regular basis anyway ;-0)
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Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

there is something between inner and outer tube

Pull bottom front panel off. Find cap for trap and cleanout. Remove filter by twisting. clear all debre and hopefully ring.

I'm trying to find the solution to the solution to this problem. Hopefully you can reach your outlet plug the washer is plugged into. Hopefully you can reach this every time you need to run a cycle.
If you unplug and then plug in the washer, you will be able to run your cycle.
I'll do my best to post once I find a more permanent solution to this problem.

Hi, the 5.9 display means the washing machine capacity (5.9 cu. ft.)
You seems to have a defective lid switch. If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.

All front loaders have to be run thru a clean cycle with no clothes or soap atleast Twice a month. You can use bleach or buy one of the special cleaners they have for washers.

The part number for the model you have listed is WH08X10036. I found your washer listed at pcappliancerepair.com, with a complete illustrated parts breakdown. Other sites you may try are:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

NOTE: For your search criteria enter your model number a "WBVH6240H0WW".

I found the gasket listed at repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com for the best prices.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Difficult job as normally tub needs to be removed and opened up. What you may be able to do is remove sump hose and pull it out from bottom drainage hole. you may need to make up something like a piece of coat hanger with a hook on it to push into bottom of tub to fish it out. This way you may do the job yourself, but dont try removing any other parts as that wont work. I have done this way many times and it may sound hard but by far cheapest method. Good luck

Try cleaning out the trap. It is located under the door and can be accessed be removing three screws at the base in the very front of the washer. The trap is white and screws to open. Watch out though, because if the washer is full of water it will come spilling out! With the trap removed, you should also use your finger to feel the opening of the pump to the side. I found a few bobby pins in my pump, and once they were removed it worked again!.

Generally, this is a door seal. Check it and see if there is any damage. Replace to solve your problem. (I'm assuming the lock is working.)

If this was helpful, please select YES to the first two RATINGS questions. Good Luck!

If you have replaced the water inlet valve and the control board and the machine still won't fill, then the next logical place that I would look at is the water level switch. This diaphragm like device has a small clear plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. Make sure the tube is not obstructed or damaged in any way. Check the switch using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity would indicate a faulty switch. My thinking is that the switch may be stuck, thereby telling the washer that the tub is full already. Hope this helped and best wishes.