having a problem with a weather maker 8000. It will not come on at all unless I shut down the switch on the side of the furnace. filters is clean. it will start to light then stop
Posted by dawnfay on
. Several times of recyling power normally brings the furnance up. Though the failure code has always been 31, there are several different behaviour when the blower starts after reset :
a. blower simply creases.
b. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), then everything stops.
c. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), once I see the orange glow from the coil, normally the gas is lit up and the unit starts working.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
Error code 23 - Pressure Switch did not open My Carrier Weather Maker Furnace is flashing an error code 23- Pressure Switch did not open( Obstructed Pressure Tubing/Pressure Switch). What should be done to resolve this error code? ode 23
Posted by Ed Ed on
Its probably a bad pressure switch where the contacts did not open when the exhaust fan shut off. Check the pressure switch ports and verify there not blocked.
Posted on Mar 14, 2018
How would I test the ignitor? How would I test the controller? Where is the controller? Does anyone know these part numbers and where do get them?
I can lite the furnce manually with the themostat on high but as soon as it reaches temp it shuts... so when it cools down i have to lite it again!
Any help appreciated. Thanks!
Hi, If you can take a good light and just look at the glow end of the hot surface ignitor, 95% of the time you will be able to see where the break is on the glow surface. If you have excess to a electrical meter, you would unplug the hot surface ignitor, that is the correct name for it and set the meter for continuity. Touch each lead from meter to each wire and you will show a reading of some kind if it is good, and nothing if it is open or burned out. If you are lighting it by hand (dangerous) it shows that the inducer motor, flame sensor, and main gas valve are in good shape. I know when its cold you have to do what it takes. If the main controller which may be a control circuit board with a red led light on it, or it may be a blue, or gray, white control box with wiring going to it with markings such as TH, TR, C, MGV, PV, Ect. on it and would be right where you are working to light the pilot manually. If it runs when you light it by hand, the control box is good or it would lock out when you would light it. Check out that hot surface ignitor/ glow plug. The part number is imprinted on it. It is either a 120 volt or may be 24 volt hot surface ignitor as some models have one or the other. A tip when installing the new one. Do not touch the surface end that glows with your fingers in anyway, as the oil from your fingers will cause it to burn in half! What happens to these hot surface ignitor is dust settles on them over time and causes them to burn in have or a crack in them. Rheem and Ruud units came out with there's mounted in a horizontal position and they kept burning out fast as dust would build fast. They finally come up with a bracket to mount it in a vertical position and solved this problem. Anyway, unplug it, pull it out and inspect it very good for any signs of a tiny crack or what ever. Ohm it out if you have a meter. You can buy one at a appliance parts house and they are very reasonable. Please keep me posted on what you find. I will be here for help. I wish you the best as I know you can do this.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
My Carrier furnace started making a very loud whirring noise. I shut it off, and after the burners went off, the noise went away (the blower was still going). I waited a few minutes and turned it back on. Once the burners started going, the loud noise came back but was intermittent. My dad listened over the phone and thought it was a belt slipping?? Any ideas? I'd appreciate any help as it's cold tonight and it's not possible to turn back on due to the nosie!!
My weathermaker started making a screeching noise and intermittantly would shut down, without blowing any heat. I found the sediment trap clogged and the induction motor was churning through the backed up condensation water. This slowed the motor down and the pressure switch would not stay closed. Unclogging the trap and hoses solved the problem. A bunch of water came out when I disconnected the collector box drain hose, along with gobs of sticky crud. Works great and is quiet now.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
The first time we turned on the AC mode on a new Infinity system the control panel said CURTAILMENT ACTIVE. Don't know what that means but i do know that the AC won't cool AT ALL!!! All winter the system worked perfectly in heat mode. Now nothing in AC mode. What's up? Thanks for any help you might be able to provide. Wilting in SC
Posted by wilting on
A follow-up to my previous post. I talked with a technician from the Co that installed my unit, and the issue lies in the "Utility saver mode" for the 2 stage heat pumps, and having the high stage locked out. In the Advanced Setup menu (hold the "Advanced" button for 10 seconds to access this menu, look for the "Utility Saver" menu item. Select it and your system probably shows that "Utility Saver" is enabled, which only allows your heat pump to run on the low stage and not the high stage. If you change the the setting to be disabled, this will allow your system to run at the high stage and should solve your problem.
I have not changed the settings on my system yet to confirm this solution. That will have to wait until I get home this evening.
Posted on May 19, 2008
My heater started making very loud whirring noises tonight. I quickly shut it off, and once the burners went out, the noise stopped (blower was still going). I waited a few minutes and turned it back on. Once the burners started going, the noise was back but was intermittent. Dad thought it was a belt slipping? Any ideas? I can't run it due to the noise, and it's cold tonight, so any help would be appreciated!!
Check the draft inducer motor for any partial blockages or dibri.
I've seen sticks, birds nest particles and pieces of deteriorating fan blades (squirrel cage type fans) cause this.
You might also find that the inducer motors bearing are going.
If its a loud vibrating grinding type noise, I'd suspect bearings or missing pieces of the blades. (unbalanced)
If it's a clanking type noise I'd suspect loose items hitting the fan.
The inducer motor will only operate right before and during burner operation, while the blower motor can operate at any time depending on your setting.
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
My furnace is intermittent. The thermostat "clicks" telling the furnace to come on. Then the induction motor will come on for 10-15 seconds and then just goes out. After some resets the furnace will come on and light off normally and run just fine - until the next time. Often we will wake up or come home to find out the the furnace has not come on. We reset it and usually it will come on, but occassionally it will again turn on the induction motor for a few seconds and then shut down. The tech has looked at it twice and can't figure it out. Thinks it might be the burner control unit. Filter clean, no codes available (this system doesn't have it). Hunter thermostat.
Posted by rclatter on
There is a small tube that comes off the inducer for cracks or water. If there are cracks then the pressure switch that it is attached to may not be closing all of the time. Also sometimes you can get water in that tubing which will also cause the pressure switch to not close. If thats the case shorten the tube so there is no low droop in it where water can collect. Another thing that I would do is disconnect the tube at the indicer, take a straightened out paper clip or stiff wire and poke it in the nipple on the inducer to make sure it is clear too. Let me know if any of these work. There may be other things we can do.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
I have a Carrier Infinity 96 gas furnace in my (new to me) home. It has been working perfectly up until tonight. The fan is blowing but the air is cool. Any idea what would cause the sudden lost of heat? There is a glass circle cover behind the cover door were I see a green ligt and a blinking yellow light. DOes this mean anything to anyone out there?
That means that the furnace is throwing a code to trouble shoot whats wrong. Most of the time, furnaces will have a code list on the inside of the door cover to explain what each code means, some of them don't. Its hard to say what it could be without knowing where to start. However, answering a few questions with someone knowledgeable over the phone if possible could help speed things up, but it would involve you being at the furnace and seeing what happens before it throws the code. If you do have a code list, this would help tremendously.
Posted on Feb 03, 2010
I have a carrier furnace. Pressure, draft safeguard, or aux limit switch did not close or reopened. This is what my furnace is blinking as a LED code. What should I do? My furnace does not turn on. The manual saysIf open longer than five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for - Proper vent sizing and condensate pitch - vent restriction or hight winds - defective inducer motor or stat capacitor - defective prssure switch or connections. If it opens after trial for ignition period, blower will come on for 90 sec. recycle delay. - Inadequate Combusion air supply - low inducer voltage - disconnected or obstructed presure tubing. We had someone come out and replace an ignitor . The unit will come one once in awhile when the house is warmer. Sometimes the air is cool. Most of the time hot. The thermo is set at 71 but the house only reaches 61 - 63.
Posted by d-housewif... on
The limit switch on the inducer has tripped. There are two wires that go to a small disk about the size of dime that has a small button in the center. Push this little button and you will feel a littl snap and the unit should fire up. Check all the manual reset limits as well. If the unit still won't start, jump the two wires by bypassing the limit switch. If it starts, then replace the switch. Bypassing the switch is only temporary and could lead to death if it is used as a permenant fix.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Hi my Air Conditioner is a CARRIER WRAC unit and does not cool. it powers but the air is not cool air. the display has E4 and i have never seen this before.
can you please help?
Posted by blackbeat on
E4 means return air sensor error, if the error cannot reset may be the return air sensor is out of range or defective. But if the sensor is ok you need to replace the control board itself. The reading of return air sensor is 8k to 10k ohms @ 25deg. C temperature.
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
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