Top 20 Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

first of all shut off the water to the area and see if the flow has ceased, if you still have a trickle of water you will not be able to solder the pipe. Any water flow will make the repair impossible. If you can get the water to slow to a trickle you will need to cut the pipe in half and solder a sleeve in its place at the cut. once the pipe is cut you can take a peice of bread, yes bread, and pack the incoming water side and this will stop the flow long enough for repairs to be made. The bread will break down to minute particles after the soldering is done and shouldn't hurt the system at all. If it is impossible to cut the piping at the area there is a pipe patch that you can purchase at most local hardware stores the wont require the water to be shut off however, this is a temporary repair and may start leaking again in the future. Good Luck on your repairs Hope I have helped you some

Dave

Thats a safety.

The unit senses a failure to ignite, so it goes into safety mode keeping the blower running to prevent overheating and fires. And keeping the inducer motor running to prevent the same, as well as raw gas build up inside the unit.

The newer systems are "smarter" and can detect more specific problems and failures. The older ones simply know that the thing didn't light, so they bring on the fans for safety.

can you her the gas valve clicking if so then you you might need a new coil

this sounds exactly like the problem. I replaced a gas valve yesterday in a Goodman furnace that had the same symptoms. I would check it or have it checked with a manometer before you replace the valve. If your inlet pressure is right and you cant get enough pressure by turning the adjustment screw clockwise, it is bad. LP should have @11-13inches of water column coming into the vavle and an outlet pressure of 7 inches of water column. Natural gas should have @5-7 inches coming in and an outlet pressure of 3.5 inches of water column

Does it cool/heat ok? If not, then your compressor is probably seized. From looking at the pic, is it a window mounted a/c? If it is and the compressor is seized, i'd just get a new a/c. It wouldn't be worth repairing.

http://www.corp.carrier.com/www/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=9d087afdef677010VgnVCM100000cb890b80RCRD
Search this web site. It has lots of manuals. It is Carrier site.
Hope this helps. Wiring diagrams are hard to find but I know they are there if you input enough of the right info.
Hope this helps and be patient while you search.

have a service company do. if its not done properly it can really cause a hazardous condition

have you checked the flame sensor eye and control circuitry, if this part or board is defective it will not open gas valve

31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than five minutes,
inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for: - Excessive wind
- Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor
- Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch
- Inadequate combustion air supply - Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing
- Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used) - Restricted vent
If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected blower
off-delay.
33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates

Most supplier are closed. You may contact a local Carrier Dealer.

1. The units should match up without a problem.
2. You will need a 40 or 50 amp breaker for the A/H and 5 KW heat strip. You will probably need a 20 or 25 Amp for the condensing unit. I would check the FLA (full load amps) rating on both units, total them and install a breaker with no more than 20% more rating than the total. You can install a small box at the A/H with a breaker for the A/H and one for the condensing unit.

what make of furnace check for birds and blockage
unfortunatley when they go there gone the squirrel cage wheel will not come of shaft u will need motor n wheel or a "plug n play housing all in one"

Hi, You say that it will light and then shut-off when the ELECTRIC pilot shuts off? If it has an automatic pilot ignition, it wouldn't have a thermocouple? It would have an ignition module with a flame sensor. Could you check this for me and let me know which one you have for sure? I can help you out better if I knew. Thank you and please get back to me.
Sincerely, Shastalaker7
Ps If it is electronic, there will be a flame sensor mounted next to the pilot. It has a ceramic body with a metal rod coming from the end.You can take a piece of steel wool not sand paper and clean the metal rod (sensor). The pilot flame will surround this keeping the burners on.After cleaning it, and if the pilot continues to go out, I would say that you're ignition module has an intermittent internal problem, and needs to be changed.

The blower wheel is either very dirty or just out of balance. The unit probably needs a very good cleaning

If the proper amount of power is being delivered to the fan motor, check the capacitor. If capacitor is good replace both the motor and capacitor. If power is not being delivered to the motor, fix that problem first. Don't just replace the motor.
Hope this helps.

I agree. Either the pilot flame is dirty and is not making good contact to heat up the bi metal strip on the pilot assembly, or the pilot assembly is defective. 90% of the time if you clean the pilot orfice and the pilot burner it will take care of the problem

http://www.corp.carrier.com/www/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=9d087afdef677010VgnVCM100000cb890b80RCRD
Try searching this Carrier web site. It has lots of manuals.
Hope this helps.

If you are referring to the flame sensor it is located in the burner box either far right or far left. It will be in the path of a burner so it gets good heat. There is only one wire connected to it.

Hi, these wires control the speed of the blower motor.L-2 is one power leg and red to bm (blower motor). If the other 2 wires are wire tied out of the way, and they have always been this way, that's the way they come from the factory, to control different speeds. On a 230 volt blower motor, you will see a yellow which normally goes to L-2 on the board. Then you will have a black, red, and sometimes blue. Sometimes you will see L-2 with yellow, L-1 could be any one of the other colors as they are marked on the motor. Low, Med, and High speed are what these extra wires are for. So, you are only using 1-speed. If it is running, and has been, forget the other 2 wires. If its not working, look for a L-1 on the board and connect any one of the other 2 wires. Like I said though, if this is always how its been and running fine, this is a normal termination. Let me know if you have a motor problem, and I can walk you through it.
Shastalaker7
PS The BM red wire is L-1 on the board.

The 24v signal the board is telling you is the problem is where the thermostat gets its power from without the 24v to the thermostat nothing is going to work. Check your red wire in the furnace to be sure it didn't come loose or break. Also check to see if there is a 3 or 5 amp fuse in the board that is blown. If the fuse is blown there will be no 24v. If all these problems check out then the transformer could be bad this is where the furnace gets the 24v from.