20 Most Recent Maytag MFD2562KES Stainless Steel Side by Side Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator With Ice Box - Page 2 Questions & Answers


Chec youtube lotta help there

Maytag... | Answered on Dec 23, 2019


Slide the frig out, (Unplug Frig. first) remove the cover so you can see the condenser, beside the condenser there is a switch that has to be carefully removed w/(fasteners) Take to your nearest appliance store, last time I did this it was like $52.00. Carefully plug-in, take not were the wiring goes usually they only fit just one way. reassemble cover, plug-in you should hear it kick on, good luck.

Maytag... | Answered on Oct 01, 2019


If you go to https://www.filtersfast.com/Maytag-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-cat.asp
It will show you styles of Maytag Refrigerators. If you click on the one that matches your style, it will show you possible areas the filter is located. You can then look in those areas. Once you locate it, then you can then identify your filter part # and replace if needed. You can also go to Maytags website and look up your model and find the manual. The manual will likely tell you where the filter is and what the part number is.

Maytag... | Answered on Sep 17, 2019


Is icemaker switched on. Usually located near icemaker/ Or maybe faulty switch

Maytag... | Answered on Sep 17, 2019


PLEASE CHECK THE CONNECTION CAREFULLY AND THEREAFTER IF NOT WORK THEN CONTACT TO WELL MACHANIC.

Maytag... | Answered on Sep 15, 2019


There may be a drip tray under the fridge, it needs to be checked and position properly

Maytag... | Answered on Aug 22, 2019


Sometimes the new board will be in defrost mode when you install it, leave it powered up for 30 minutes to see if it begins cooling... Maytag Refrigerator Control Board W10890094
Also be sure the code is entered properly, these will do NOTHING without the right code.

Maytag... | Answered on Aug 07, 2019


It could be the start relay on the compressor failing. If the fridge cant get down to temperature, the icons or alarms will start to flash or beep.

Maytag... | Answered on Jun 16, 2019


Pull the toe kick plate straight off the front to gain access.

The pan is located under the freezer and accessed by pulling it out from the front (not attached, just sits in place.)

Maytag... | Answered on Jun 16, 2019


The water is coming from the air that is being cooled. This how AC work. Refer to instructions that came with unit for further explanation.

Maytag... | Answered on Jun 07, 2019


maytag is correct the water in the filter freezes and expands and breaks the filter at the weakest point which is the seam other locations are at the mounting connection and units that have water line in door the T connection inside door

Maytag... | Answered on Jun 04, 2019


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.

If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"




Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix How to Test your Defrost Timer


Maytag... | Answered on May 18, 2019


you need to use a thin soft wire of some kind and clean out the drain plug holes, u can try using hot water over them but seems like the line may be plugged with rotten food etc.

Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.
Unclogging Frost Free Refrigerator Condensate Drain How to Unclog Refrigerator Drain Line Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1

Maytag... | Answered on May 18, 2019

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